Adjacent Areas
< None | Memorial Paul Arene >
Sport
Lots of sun!
Downhill
30 minsSeepage
0
These impressive cliffs are the main attraction at Peillon for those in search of la pompe. La Grotte offers very steep, strenuous climbing on tufas and generally good holds, with lots of knee-bars and heel hooks. La Grotte and sector Paul Arene were discovered by Steph Benoist, who started equipping in 1999, along with Axel Franco and Patrice Glairon-Rappaz. Guidebook page 370.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Toit de rennes The left-most line on the cliff sees little attention. | 1 Stars Technical | 6c |
2 |
Le pilier de vannes A difficult move low down leads to a magnificent finish of Verdon style climbing high on the wall. | 3 Stars Technical | 6c+ |
3 |
Cent milles pattes A tough but rewarding climb up the obvious dark tufas. | 3 Stars Strong Pumpy | 7b |
4 |
La croisiere s'amuse A hybrid route, linking most of the climbs on the left side of the main cave. Start up Cent milles pattes and finish up the... | 3 Stars Strong Pumpy | 8a |
5 |
La discrete Belay at the top of the hand line. A fingery route up the right side of the smaller cave. | Technical Pumpy Crimpy | 7a+ |
6 |
Suksan vanke Start just right of La discrete. A very difficult start leads to easier but exhilarating climbing. | 1 Stars Technical Strong Crimpy | 7c |
7 |
La femme adultere Just to the right again. Excellent and varied. | 3 Stars Strong Pumpy | 7b+ |
8 |
Inaal ding dingue dong A difficult section leads to some bold moves, then a fine headwall. | 2 Stars Technical Strong | 7c+ |
9 |
Y'a pas d'arrangement Magnificent. Finish along the traverse of Paret. | 3 Stars Strong | 8a |
10 |
Y'a pas d'arrangement direct Bold, powerful moves on good holds leads to a technical finish. | 3 Stars | 8a+ |
11 |
Johnny guitar Start just left of the wall. A desperate last clip spoils a great route. | 1 Stars Technical | 7b+ |
12 |
Coup de foudre Start just right of the wall. Excellent climbing, but very committing (sporty sport?) above the fourth bolt. | 3 Stars Strong Pumpy Fluttery | 7b+ |
13 |
Paret After doing Coup de foudre, continue up the corner above to join and finish up Y'a pas d'arrangement direct. | 3 Stars Strong | 7c |
14 |
"Attention, danger"! Start just right of Coup de foudre and continue just right of Paret to eventually join and finish up Y'a pas d'arrangement... | 1 Stars Technical Pumpy | 8a |
15 |
Super croix Amble up to the hole then move left and up with great difficulty. | 2 Stars Technical Pumpy Crimpy | 8b+ |
16 |
Das boot From the hole on Super croix, continue up the desperate tufa above. Very butch indeed. | 2 Stars Technical Strong | 8b |
17 |
Rue gamma Do most of Das boot, then head up to join and finish up Vizir. | 3 Stars Technical Strong Pumpy | 8c |
18 |
A bout de souffle Low in the grade and with some fantastic moves. | 3 Stars Technical Strong Pumpy | 8b |
19 |
Au bout de la rue Link A bout de souffle and Rue Gamma by moving left below the belay of Batman. | 3 Stars Technical Strong Pumpy | ?? |
20 |
Le souffle du vizir Brilliant. A bout de souffle followed by the left-hand finish which is Vizir. | 3 Stars Technical Strong | 8b+ |
21 |
Le bazaar Batman, then continue to link Saharagga with Vizir. | 2 Stars Strong Pumpy | 8b |
22 |
Le grand bazaar Link A bout de souffle and Le bazaar. | 3 Stars Strong Pumpy | 8b+ |
23 |
Souffle du ragga A bout de souffle and the right-hand finish Saharagga. | 3 Stars Strong Pumpy | 8b+ |
24 |
Au bout de reauleau A bout de souffle and Dr. Batman. | 3 Stars Strong Pumpy | 8b+ |
25 |
Name unknown Connect routes A bout de souffle, Batman and Dr. Buttman. Possibly 8c. | 3 Stars Pumpy | 8b+ |
26 |
Batman The easiest way up the wall. | 3 Stars Technical Pumpy | 7c+ |
27 |
Vizir Very sustained and brilliant. Batman and the left-hand finish. | 3 Stars Strong Pumpy | 8a+ |
28 |
Saharagga Superb. Batman and the right-hand finish. | 3 Stars Strong Pumpy | 8a+ |
29 |
Dr. Batman Batman, then traverse right immediately to join and finish up Dr. Buttman. | 3 Stars Strong Pumpy | 8a+ |
30 |
Dr. Buttman From the crux of Batman, desperate moves lead to Dr. Batman. Finish up this. | 2 Stars Technical Strong Pumpy | 8b |
31 |
A l'envers à l'endroit Start just right of Batman. Incredible upside down climbing leads to a tough finish up the slippery, bold crack as for Dr.... | 3 Stars Strong | 8a+ |
32 |
Voyage au bout de la nuit Start just right again. Your aim is to get to the belay at the top of Le corbeau - good luck! Awesome, despite being low in the... | 3 Stars Strong Crimpy | 8b |
33 |
Le corbeau Start on the right-hand side of the cave and traverse left across the lip to a pumpy finish. | 3 Stars Strong Pumpy | 8a |
34 |
Tout reste à faire Start just to the right of Le Corbeau. Knee-bars are essential. | 2 Stars Technical Pumpy | 8a |
35 |
La violence et le sacre Head for the obvious stalactite. Attack the bulge to a good rest then on up the bold headwall. | 3 Stars Pumpy Fluttery | 7b |
36 |
La guerre du feu A tricky move low down, then up to the large hole high up. Move right then up, heading rightwards for the top of the crag.... | 3 Stars Technical Pumpy | 7b |
37 |
A lucie naon The big roof right of La guerre du feu has some big holds, but they soon run out. | 2 Stars Technical Pumpy | 7a+ |
38 |
Captain caverne An easy start leads to a slippery tufa. Excellent. | 3 Stars Strong | 7a+ |
39 |
La cinquieme colonne Steady climbing to a difficult finish. | 1 Stars Technical | 6c+ |
40 |
Mathilde Start up La cinquieme colonne then move right towards the edge of the wall. | 2 Stars Technical Strong | 6b+ |
41 |
Vague à l'ame The rather scruffy slab over on the left. | 1 Stars Technical | 6a |
42 |
Porque te vas? The overlaps and slabs to the right are a bit better. | 2 Stars Technical | 6a+ |
43 |
A la place du coeur The rightwards leaning crack/groove. | 3 Stars Technical | 6b |
44 |
Mille yeux The fingery wall and grooves. | 2 Stars Technical Crimpy | 6c |
45 |
L'escogriffeur | 2 Stars Technical Crimpy | 6b+ |
46 |
Huit ça suffit | 1 Stars Technical | 6c |