La Grotte

Adjacent Areas
< None  |  Memorial Paul Arene >

Sport
Lots of sun!
30 mins
Downhill
Seepage
Sheltered

These impressive cliffs are the main attraction at Peillon for those in search of la pompe. La Grotte offers very steep, strenuous climbing on tufas and generally good holds, with lots of knee-bars and heel hooks. La Grotte and sector Paul Arene were discovered by Steph Benoist, who started equipping in 1999, along with Axel Franco and Patrice Glairon-Rappaz. Guidebook page 370.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Toit de rennes
The left-most line on the cliff sees little attention.
 
1 Stars
Technical
6c
2
Le pilier de vannes
A difficult move low down leads to a magnificent finish of Verdon style climbing high on the wall.
 
3 Stars
Technical
6c+
3
Cent milles pattes
A tough but rewarding climb up the obvious dark tufas.
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
7b
4
La croisiere s'amuse
A hybrid route, linking most of the climbs on the left side of the main cave. Start up Cent milles pattes and finish up the...
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
8a
5
La discrete
Belay at the top of the hand line. A fingery route up the right side of the smaller cave.
 
Technical
Pumpy
Crimpy
7a+
6
Suksan vanke
Start just right of La discrete. A very difficult start leads to easier but exhilarating climbing.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Strong
Crimpy
7c
7
La femme adultere
Just to the right again. Excellent and varied.
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
7b+
8
Inaal ding dingue dong
A difficult section leads to some bold moves, then a fine headwall.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Strong
7c+
9
Y'a pas d'arrangement
Magnificent. Finish along the traverse of Paret.
 
3 Stars
Strong
8a
10
Y'a pas d'arrangement direct
Bold, powerful moves on good holds leads to a technical finish.
 
3 Stars
8a+
11
Johnny guitar
Start just left of the wall. A desperate last clip spoils a great route.
 
1 Stars
Technical
7b+
12
Coup de foudre
Start just right of the wall. Excellent climbing, but very committing (sporty sport?) above the fourth bolt.
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
Fluttery
7b+
13
Paret
After doing Coup de foudre, continue up the corner above to join and finish up Y'a pas d'arrangement direct.
 
3 Stars
Strong
7c
14
"Attention, danger"!
Start just right of Coup de foudre and continue just right of Paret to eventually join and finish up Y'a pas d'arrangement...
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
8a
15
Super croix
Amble up to the hole then move left and up with great difficulty.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Crimpy
8b+
16
Das boot
From the hole on Super croix, continue up the desperate tufa above. Very butch indeed.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Strong
8b
17
Rue gamma
Do most of Das boot, then head up to join and finish up Vizir.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Strong
Pumpy
8c
18
A bout de souffle
Low in the grade and with some fantastic moves.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Strong
Pumpy
8b
19
Au bout de la rue
Link A bout de souffle and Rue Gamma by moving left below the belay of Batman.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Strong
Pumpy
??
20
Le souffle du vizir
Brilliant. A bout de souffle followed by the left-hand finish which is Vizir.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Strong
8b+
21
Le bazaar
Batman, then continue to link Saharagga with Vizir.
 
2 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
8b
22
Le grand bazaar
Link A bout de souffle and Le bazaar.
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
8b+
23
Souffle du ragga
A bout de souffle and the right-hand finish Saharagga.
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
8b+
24
Au bout de reauleau
A bout de souffle and Dr. Batman.
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
8b+
25
Name unknown
Connect routes A bout de souffle, Batman and Dr. Buttman. Possibly 8c.
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
8b+
26
Batman
The easiest way up the wall.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7c+
27
Vizir
Very sustained and brilliant. Batman and the left-hand finish.
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
8a+
28
Saharagga
Superb. Batman and the right-hand finish.
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
8a+
29
Dr. Batman
Batman, then traverse right immediately to join and finish up Dr. Buttman.
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
8a+
30
Dr. Buttman
From the crux of Batman, desperate moves lead to Dr. Batman. Finish up this.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Strong
Pumpy
8b
31
A l'envers à l'endroit
Start just right of Batman. Incredible upside down climbing leads to a tough finish up the slippery, bold crack as for Dr....
 
3 Stars
Strong
8a+
32
Voyage au bout de la nuit
Start just right again. Your aim is to get to the belay at the top of Le corbeau - good luck! Awesome, despite being low in the...
 
3 Stars
Strong
Crimpy
8b
33
Le corbeau
Start on the right-hand side of the cave and traverse left across the lip to a pumpy finish.
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
8a
34
Tout reste à faire
Start just to the right of Le Corbeau. Knee-bars are essential.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
8a
35
La violence et le sacre Top 50
Head for the obvious stalactite. Attack the bulge to a good rest then on up the bold headwall.
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
7b
36
La guerre du feu
A tricky move low down, then up to the large hole high up. Move right then up, heading rightwards for the top of the crag....
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7b
37
A lucie naon
The big roof right of La guerre du feu has some big holds, but they soon run out.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7a+
38
Captain caverne
An easy start leads to a slippery tufa. Excellent.
 
3 Stars
Strong
7a+
39
La cinquieme colonne
Steady climbing to a difficult finish.
 
1 Stars
Technical
6c+
40
Mathilde
Start up La cinquieme colonne then move right towards the edge of the wall.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Strong
6b+
41
Vague à l'ame
The rather scruffy slab over on the left.
 
1 Stars
Technical
6a
42
Porque te vas?
The overlaps and slabs to the right are a bit better.
 
2 Stars
Technical
6a+
43
A la place du coeur
The rightwards leaning crack/groove.
 
3 Stars
Technical
6b
44
Mille yeux
The fingery wall and grooves.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
6c
45
L'escogriffeur
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
6b+
46
Huit ça suffit
 
1 Stars
Technical
6c