Mayfair Wall

Adjacent Areas
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Restricted Access

The Mayfair Wall is one of the showpiece crags of the area featuring a collection of superb and technical climbs on beautifully featured rock. Approach (see map on page 324) - This is the first major wall encountered 250m beyond the entrance to the Marine Drive. Park next to the caves before the wall or a little further up the road (see topo on page 330). a No climbing before 6pm, on all Bank Holiday weekends and during the 6 week summer holiday.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
King Krank
Varied climbing with bolt protection on the hard sections. It can also be considered as a 7a+.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
E5 6b
2
Axle Attack
An historic pitch that is one of the area's finest at the grade.
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
7a+
3
Body Torque
A tough route breaking left from low on Axle Attack.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
7b+
4
Body Torque Direct
A hard technical finish to the original line.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7c
5
Bloodsports
Sustained climbing up the wall to the right of Axle Attack.
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7b
6
The Bloods
A small corner leads easily to the mid-height ledge. Step left and move steeply up a shallow groove and wall to a lower-off....
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
7a+
7
Blood Lust
A more direct version of The Bloods from the mid-height ledge.
 
1 Stars
Technical
7c
8
Contusion
Popular. There is a tough section over the bulge. Can be linked to the extension of Mayfair at the same grade - worth doing.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
6c
9
The Senile Penile Extension
The groove above the belay of Contusion.
 
1 Stars
7b+
10
Mayfair
Excellent climbing that features a hard and technical lower wall and an airy finish above the upper bulge to a lower-off. The...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Technical
Pumpy
7a+
11
Julio Juvenito
A variant to Mayfair that goes right at its initial bulge.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
7a
12
Carrigan's Groove
The substance of this route is the fine right-facing groove in the middle of the wall. Originally accessed from Mayfair. Can be...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
E5 6b
13
Harry the Clamp
Some good well-protected moves make this a popular method of reaching the two harder pitches higher up.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7a+
14
Master Plan
The extension to Harry the Clamp is an excellent test-piece.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
8a+
15
Masterclass
A direct line up the headwall that was well ahead of its time and only a micro-grade short of being the World's first 8a! The...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7c+
16
Horizontal Pleasures
Another one of those traverses that are very popular with new-routers on the Ormes. This one starts up Thunder Road (see next...
 E5 6b
17
The Disillusioned Screw Machine
One of the great challenges of the crag. Most climbers do the route in one pitch, by climbing the first pitch, clipping in,...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Technical
E6 6b
18
Thunder Road
A variation on The Disillusioned Screw Machine that shares the same crux. The climbing and positions are good but not quite as...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
E6 6b
19
Oyster
A steep and technical crack that is high in the grade. From the mid-height ledge, trend up and leftwards to a rest below the...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Crimpy
8a
20
The Bearded Clam
An exhilirating climb that builds to an exposed finale on the headwall. From below the crack on Oyster make some wild moves...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
7a+
21
Readers' Wives
A left-hand finish to the previous route. Now fully bolted and a more logical finish.
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
7a+
22
Needle in the Groove
A strenuous and technical climb that crosses the bulge to the right of The Bearded Clam. From below the bulge pull up right...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Technical
Pumpy
7c
23
Rupture
The wall leads reasonably easily to a scoop below the bulge. Move right then make some hard moves back left into the groove...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
E5 6c
24
Rapture
The right-hand groove is a touch easier but getting into it is still very problematic. From the scoop below the bulge, traverse...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
E4 6b
25
Plagued by Fools
Excellent climbing up the arete right of Rapture, finishing at the Rapture lower-off.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Crimpy
7b+
26
Anchovy Madonna
This is one of the best mid-grade extremes on the Ormes and features some superbly-positioned climbing. From the stance, swing...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
E3 5c
27
Farewell to Charlton Chestwig
A well positioned rising traverse which is suitable for quiet mid-week days only. After all you don't want to get in the way of...
 E6 6b
  • Latest Comments

    For UPPER PEN TRWYN

    String of Pearls
    "The resin around the second bolt, which (just about) protects the crux if you fa..." 01/Jun

    Bauxed
    "If this is HVS then a wholesale revision of all UK grades is needed!" 19/May

    Pen Trwyn Patrol
    "Changed from E4 6a to E4 6a **, no votes" 11/Oct

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