Mayfair Wall

Adjacent Areas
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Morning sun
0 mins
Roadside
Sheltered
Restricted Access

The Mayfair Wall is one of the showpiece crags of the area featuring a collection of superb and technical climbs on beautifully featured rock. Approach (see map on page 324) - This is the first major wall encountered 250m beyond the entrance to the Marine Drive. Park next to the caves before the wall or a little further up the road (see topo on page 330). a No climbing before 6pm, on all Bank Holiday weekends and during the 6 week summer holiday.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
King Krank
Varied climbing with bolt protection on the hard sections. It can also be considered as a 7a+.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
E5 6b
2
Axle Attack
An historic pitch that is one of the area's finest at the grade.
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
7a+
3
Body Torque
A tough route breaking left from low on Axle Attack.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
7b+
4
Body Torque Direct
A hard technical finish to the original line.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7c
5
Bloodsports
Sustained climbing up the wall to the right of Axle Attack.
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7b
6
The Bloods
A small corner leads easily to the mid-height ledge. Step left and move steeply up a shallow groove and wall to a lower-off....
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
7a+
7
Blood Lust
A more direct version of The Bloods from the mid-height ledge.
 
1 Stars
Technical
7c
8
Contusion
Popular. There is a tough section over the bulge. Can be linked to the extension of Mayfair at the same grade - worth doing.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
6c
9
The Senile Penile Extension
The groove above the belay of Contusion.
 
1 Stars
7b+
10
Mayfair
Excellent climbing that features a hard and technical lower wall and an airy finish above the upper bulge to a lower-off. The...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Technical
Pumpy
7a+
11
Julio Juvenito
A variant to Mayfair that goes right at its initial bulge.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
7a
12
Carrigan's Groove
The substance of this route is the fine right-facing groove in the middle of the wall. Originally accessed from Mayfair. Can be...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
E5 6b
13
Harry the Clamp
Some good well-protected moves make this a popular method of reaching the two harder pitches higher up.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7a+
14
Master Plan
The extension to Harry the Clamp is an excellent test-piece.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
8a+
15
Horizontal Pleasures
Another one of those traverses that are very popular with new-routers on the Ormes. This one starts up Thunder Road (see next...
 E5 6b
16
Masterclass
A direct line up the headwall that was well ahead of its time and only a micro-grade short of being the World's first 8a! The...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7c+
17
The Disillusioned Screw Machine
One of the great challenges of the crag. Most climbers do the route in one pitch, by climbing the first pitch, clipping in,...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Technical
E6 6b
18
Thunder Road
A variation on The Disillusioned Screw Machine that shares the same crux. The climbing and positions are good but not quite as...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
E6 6b
19
Oyster
A steep and technical crack that is high in the grade. From the mid-height ledge, trend up and leftwards to a rest below the...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Crimpy
8a
20
The Bearded Clam
An exhilirating climb that builds to an exposed finale on the headwall. From below the crack on Oyster make some wild moves...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
7a+
21
Readers' Wives
A left-hand finish to the previous route. Now fully bolted and a more logical finish.
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
7a+
22
Needle in the Groove
A strenuous and technical climb that crosses the bulge to the right of The Bearded Clam. From below the bulge pull up right...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Technical
Pumpy
7c
23
Rupture
The wall leads reasonably easily to a scoop below the bulge. Move right then make some hard moves back left into the groove...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
E5 6c
24
Rapture
The right-hand groove is a touch easier but getting into it is still very problematic. From the scoop below the bulge, traverse...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
E4 6b
25
Plagued by Fools
Excellent climbing up the arete right of Rapture, finishing at the Rapture lower-off.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Crimpy
7b+
26
Anchovy Madonna
This is one of the best mid-grade extremes on the Ormes and features some superbly-positioned climbing. From the stance, swing...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
E3 5c
27
Farewell to Charlton Chestwig
A well positioned rising traverse which is suitable for quiet mid-week days only. After all you don't want to get in the way of...
 E6 6b
  • Latest Comments

    For UPPER PEN TRWYN

    String of Pearls
    "The resin around the second bolt, which (just about) protects the crux if you fa..." 01/Jun

    Bauxed
    "If this is HVS then a wholesale revision of all UK grades is needed!" 19/May

    Melkor
    "Changed from E3 5c to E3 5c *, no votes" 11/Oct

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