Testament to Pure Gold

Adjacent Areas
< The Cutaway  |  Plumbline >

Sport
Morning sun
2 mins
Uphill
Sheltered
Restricted Access

The higher wall above the Marine Drive has a characteristic arched overhang - this is the Testament Area. Approach (see map on page 324) - Drive along the Marine Drive to just past Mayfair Wall. The routes can be reached from below up a steep path or from the other sectors to the right. aNo climbing before 6pm, on all Bank Holiday weekends and during the 6 week summer holiday. A bird restriction is sometimes in place as well.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Testament
A shallow groove-line. Excellent climbing and never desperate.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
6c+
2
Talisman
Similar to Testament, but a bit harder with the crux at the top.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
7a
3
Touchstone
A good little roof problem.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
6c+
4
Confuse the Aardvark
Start up twin cracks and traverse left past a hole to the left-hand line of glue-ins that are followed to a lower-off. This...
1 user comment
 7b
5
Bored Games
Start up twin cracks then move left to a hole. Climb direct from here up the steep wall to a lower-off.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
7a+
6
Norman's Wisdom
A delightful little wall climb. From the hole on Bored Games trend rightwards to a lower-off.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
6c+
7
Norman's Wisdom Tooth
The slight rib right of Norman's Wisdom.
 
1 Stars
Technical
6c+
8
Hot Sexy Phone Talk
The steep line above the initial twin cracks.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
6c+
9
The Lyon King
A direct line through the left-hand side of the arch.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
7a+
10
It
A nice trad route which tackles the striated wall directly.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
E2 5b
11
Precious Metal
A classic and popular route which follows the diagonal ramp-line, across the striated wall to the same lower-off as It.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
E1 5b
12
Magical Ring
The wall to the right of a prominent left-leaning groove has a steep bulge with some sharp pockets.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7a+
13
Midas Touch
You tend mostly to climb the left wall of the groove. Small wires give some protection but not as much as you may want. The...
 E4 6a
14
Gold 'n' Delicious
Excellent sustained climbing with a tricky leftwards traverse at the top on an undercut flake.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
7a+
15
Pot of Gold
The short hanging groove to the right has a tricky start. Two nice sections slightly spoilt by an easy and grassy bit in the...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
6c+
16
Lipstick
A long and spectacular route which follows the archway by powerful undercutting. Reachy around the roof. The bolt on the lip...
 E5 6c
17
Pure Gold
Climb direct to a bulge then move right and up to the ledge. Move left and attack the upper wall.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
6c+
18
Capturing the Coelacanth
The superb slim groove leads easily to a break on the mid-height ledge. Make a powerful finish up the thin headwall.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
7b
19
Love Over Gold
A good route with varied climbing. Cracks at the start (wires) lead to a ledge. Finish over a bulge past a bolt.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
E3 6a
20
Goldeneye
A hard and technical route. A few wires are needed for the easy central section.
 
Technical
Crimpy
7b+