Testament to Pure Gold

Adjacent Areas
< Mayfair Wall  |  Plumbline >

Sport
Morning sun
2 mins
Uphill
Sheltered
Restricted Access

The higher wall above the Marine Drive has a characteristic arched overhang - this is the Testament Area. Approach (see map on page 324) - Drive along the Marine Drive to just past Mayfair Wall. The routes can be reached from below up a steep path or from the other sectors to the right. aNo climbing before 6pm, on all Bank Holiday weekends and during the 6 week summer holiday. A bird restriction is sometimes in place as well.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Testament
A shallow groove-line. Excellent climbing and never desperate.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
6c+
2
Talisman
Similar to Testament, but a bit harder with the crux at the top.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
7a
3
Touchstone
A good little roof problem.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
6c+
4
Midas Touch
You tend mostly to climb the left wall of the groove. Small wires give some protection but not as much as you may want. The...
 E4 6a
5
Confuse the Aardvark
Start up twin cracks and traverse left past a hole to the left-hand line of glue-ins that are followed to a lower-off. This...
1 user comment
 7b
6
Bored Games
Start up twin cracks then move left to a hole. Climb direct from here up the steep wall to a lower-off.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
7a+
7
Norman's Wisdom
A delightful little wall climb. From the hole on Bored Games trend rightwards to a lower-off.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
6c+
8
Norman's Wisdom Tooth
The slight rib right of Norman's Wisdom.
 
1 Stars
Technical
6c+
9
Hot Sexy Phone Talk
The steep line above the initial twin cracks.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
6c+
10
The Lyon King
A direct line through the left-hand side of the arch.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
7a+
11
It
A nice trad route which tackles the striated wall directly.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
E2 5b
12
Precious Metal
A classic and popular route which follows the diagonal ramp-line, across the striated wall to the same lower-off as It.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
E1 5b
13
Magical Ring
The wall to the right of a prominent left-leaning groove has a steep bulge with some sharp pockets.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7a+
14
Gold 'n' Delicious
Excellent sustained climbing with a tricky leftwards traverse at the top on an undercut flake.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
7a+
15
Pot of Gold
The short hanging groove to the right has a tricky start. Two nice sections slightly spoilt by an easy and grassy bit in the...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
6c+
16
Lipstick
A long and spectacular route which follows the archway by powerful undercutting. Reachy around the roof. The bolt on the lip...
 E5 6c
17
Pure Gold
Climb direct to a bulge then move right and up to the ledge. Move left and attack the upper wall.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
6c+
18
Capturing the Coelacanth
The superb slim groove leads easily to a break on the mid-height ledge. Make a powerful finish up the thin headwall.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
7b
19
Love Over Gold
A good route with varied climbing. Cracks at the start (wires) lead to a ledge. Finish over a bulge past a bolt.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
E3 6a
20
Goldeneye
A hard and technical route. A few wires are needed for the easy central section.
 
Technical
Crimpy
7b+
  • Latest Comments

    For UPPER PEN TRWYN

    String of Pearls
    "The resin around the second bolt, which (just about) protects the crux if you fa..." 01/Jun

    Bauxed
    "If this is HVS then a wholesale revision of all UK grades is needed!" 19/May

    Magical Ring
    "Changed from 7a+ to 7a+ **, no votes" 11/Oct

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