Black Walls

Adjacent Areas
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Sport

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Spine Chill
The fingery wall with a slight leftwards detour near the lower-off.
 6c+
2
Blackwall Tunnel
Similar technical climbing to its left-hand neighbour but with a tricky bouldery start.
 7a+
3
Menincursion
The delightful central scoop line has a fingery finish over the bulge, with loads of holds to choose from.
 6c+
4
The Peppermint Pig
The cracks give a good nut-protected route. Step left to the lower-off (awkward).
 E3 6a
5
The Lull
Alternatively it might be called Willowbrooks Super Direct. Wires needed for the top.
 7b
6
Willowbrooks
The original line has a very technical move over the lower bulge by an old bolt, and a tricky little finish. Wires needed for...
 7a
7
Storm Warning
The corner line just to the left of the wet streak. It shares its crux with Willowbrooks.
 7a
8
Drip, Drip, Drip Direct
Climb up the right-hand side of the streak. The bulge at the bottom is hard. Graded for dry conditions.
 7a
9
Drip, Drip, Drip
The original line is a touch easier but it has been superseded by its neighbours. Wires needed to get to the first bolt.
 6c
10
Wet Dreams
The fine open groove inbetween the two (usually) wet streaks. Wires needed to get to the first bolt. Graded for dry conditions.
 7a
11
Willowbrooks Direct
A short sustained section up the lower wall may give access to the upper groove of the original. Wires needed for the groove.
 7a+
12
Captain Percival
The attractive rounded grooves at the top of the little ramp has a hard move in the middle and fine bridging above.
 6a+
13
Clutching at Squaws
A good little new route which has a perplexing start. Desperate if you pull on all the chalked holds, but a lot easier if you...
 6b
14
Nameless
A rising line following the diagonal break and finishing as for Willowbrooks.
 E4 6b
15
Washington Waltz
A pointless high level traverse from the lower-off on Spine Chill to the lower-off on Storm Warning.
 E5 6b
16
White Seam
The first allowed climb is not very exciting. Escapable moves up the wall right of the main corner.
 E3 5c
17
The Nut Cluster
An eliminate line connecting the two climbs on either side. A more direct version has been attempted since there is a chipped...
 E4 6a
18
Second Sense
The crack on the right-hand side of the wall leads easily past a thread to a stiff finish.
 E4 6a
19
Lemon Entry
The pillar above the ramp has clips on alternate sides. Not very good climbing with a bit of an approach thrash. The bolts are...
 6c
20
wraith
 
2 Stars
Technical
Strong
E1 6a
  • Latest Comments

    For UPPER PEN TRWYN

    String of Pearls
    "The resin around the second bolt, which (just about) protects the crux if you fa..." 01/Jun

    Bauxed
    "If this is HVS then a wholesale revision of all UK grades is needed!" 19/May

    Pot of Gold
    "Changed from 6c+ to 6c+ *, no votes" 11/Oct

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