Homo Sapien

Adjacent Areas
< Black Walls  |  Road End >

Sport
Evening sun
0 mins
Roadside
Sheltered
Restricted Access

The best section of cliff at this end of Upper Pen Trwyn is the bulging pillar of Homo Sapien left of a sloping ramp, not to be confused with its near-twin formation 30m left. Approach (see map on page 324) - Continue around the Marine Drive, past the old Coastguard lookout, to where there is a huge overhang above the road. Continue for another 100m and park carefully either below the wall or a little further on. a No climbing before 6pm, on all Bank Holiday weekends and during the 6 week summer holiday.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Blue Steel
Another good route which covers some blank looking rock. The bulging wall above the ramp leads to a vague crack and a very thin...
 7c
2
The Eleventh Hour
A pointless little eliminate which starts up Candle in the Wind then moves right onto the wall.
 E3 6a
3
2211
The blue scoop leads to a tricky bulge. Only short but with good moves.
 7a+
4
Ten Forty
Avoids the crux of 2211 by a rightwards exit up some cracks. Technical climbing.
 7a
5
Karaoke Club
A filler-in route with quality climbing up the wall above some little roofs. See
 7a+
6
Poison Rain
Short and hard climbing up the bulge right of the corner line. The bolt is broken and one of the threads is missing.
 6a
7
Thin Red Line
A fine route up the discontinuous crack line with two hard sections reaching between the cracks above the two bulges. The bolts...
 E5 6b
8
Homo Sexual
The first of the shortish lines on the left side of the buttress.
 
Technical
7b+
9
Candle in the Wind
An attractive little groove. There is a right-hand variation via a bolt on the right wall - The Eleventh Hour, 6c.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
7a+
10
Sonic Sinbad
A good route up the right-trending groove.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
7a
11
The Thin Turquoise Line
Another short route with interesting moves.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
6c+
12
Homo Erectus
Excellent climbing up a striated bulging wall, then a thin crack above.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
7b
13
Homo Sapien
One of the best routes above the Marine Drive with sustained climbing which is absorbing right up to the last move. From the...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Technical
7a+
14
Snakes and Ladders
A short and fierce route up the black streak above the ramp.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
7c+
15
White Hopes
A brilliant companion to Homo Sapien. Start up the next groove up the ramp and then head across for a crack. Keep your momentum...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7b
16
Sèverine
The original route up the back of the ramp is a tad easier than its left-hand variant, but it shares some of the hard climbing.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
7b+
17
After the Fact
A poor route which has been completely superseded by Raw.
 E4 6b
18
Raw
Good technical climbing up the black streak.
 7a+
19
The Gold Coast
One of the few good traditional routes at this end of the Drive. Excellent climbing up the cracked grooves.
 E3 5c
20
Watch Your Poison
Another mini-route which packs a lot in. Hard for most of its length.
 7b
21
Loose Lingo
A poor line-less route to the right with one old bolt.
 E4 6a