Homo Sapien

Adjacent Areas
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Sport
Evening sun
0 mins
Roadside
Sheltered
Restricted Access

The best section of cliff at this end of Upper Pen Trwyn is the bulging pillar of Homo Sapien left of a sloping ramp, not to be confused with its near-twin formation 30m left. Approach (see map on page 324) - Continue around the Marine Drive, past the old Coastguard lookout, to where there is a huge overhang above the road. Continue for another 100m and park carefully either below the wall or a little further on. a No climbing before 6pm, on all Bank Holiday weekends and during the 6 week summer holiday.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Blue Steel
Another good route which covers some blank looking rock. The bulging wall above the ramp leads to a vague crack and a very thin...
 7c
2
Homo Sexual
The first of the shortish lines on the left side of the buttress.
 
Technical
7b+
3
The Eleventh Hour
A pointless little eliminate which starts up Candle in the Wind then moves right onto the wall.
 E3 6a
4
Candle in the Wind
An attractive little groove. There is a right-hand variation via a bolt on the right wall - The Eleventh Hour, 6c.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
7a+
5
Sonic Sinbad
A good route up the right-trending groove.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
7a
6
The Thin Turquoise Line
Another short route with interesting moves.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
6c+
7
Homo Erectus
Excellent climbing up a striated bulging wall, then a thin crack above.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
7b
8
Homo Sapien
One of the best routes above the Marine Drive with sustained climbing which is absorbing right up to the last move. From the...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Technical
7a+
9
White Hopes
A brilliant companion to Homo Sapien. Start up the next groove up the ramp and then head across for a crack. Keep your momentum...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7b
10
Snakes and Ladders
A short and fierce route up the black streak above the ramp.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
7c+
11
Sèverine
The original route up the back of the ramp is a tad easier than its left-hand variant, but it shares some of the hard climbing.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
7b+
12
Watch Your Poison
Another mini-route which packs a lot in. Hard for most of its length.
 7b
13
After the Fact
A poor route which has been completely superseded by Raw.
 E4 6b
14
2211
The blue scoop leads to a tricky bulge. Only short but with good moves.
 7a+
15
Raw
Good technical climbing up the black streak.
 7a+
16
Ten Forty
Avoids the crux of 2211 by a rightwards exit up some cracks. Technical climbing.
 7a
17
The Gold Coast
One of the few good traditional routes at this end of the Drive. Excellent climbing up the cracked grooves.
 E3 5c
18
Karaoke Club
A filler-in route with quality climbing up the wall above some little roofs. See
 7a+
19
Poison Rain
Short and hard climbing up the bulge right of the corner line. The bolt is broken and one of the threads is missing.
 6a
20
Thin Red Line
A fine route up the discontinuous crack line with two hard sections reaching between the cracks above the two bulges. The bolts...
 E5 6b
21
Loose Lingo
A poor line-less route to the right with one old bolt.
 E4 6a
  • Latest Comments

    For UPPER PEN TRWYN

    String of Pearls
    "The resin around the second bolt, which (just about) protects the crux if you fa..." 01/Jun

    Bauxed
    "If this is HVS then a wholesale revision of all UK grades is needed!" 19/May

    No Bark, No Drill
    "Changed from 7c to 7c **, no votes" 11/Oct

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