Wolfgang Forever Area

Adjacent Areas
< Captain Klutz Area  |  Reptile Smile Area >

Sport
Sun and Shade
15 mins
Up and Down

A long and sparsely featured wall that has a good selection of wall pitches in the 7s. The rock itself on the hard upper regions of the climbs is excellent, although the lower sections of the wall can be slightly dusty.
Approach - Walk towards the cliff-top path, and turn right (looking out). Continue for about 500m, past an old concrete-wall on the cliff edge, before the path drops down slightly into a quarried area. Locate a small path that drops steeply at a break in the cliff-line, and doubles back leftwards (facing out) down the hill. Continue along the cliff base from the approach descent. The cliff can be easily identified by the small stone shelter at its base.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Is Vic There?
A particularly good wall climb that, if caught in prime condition, warrants an extra star. Thin moves to a jug at the break are...
10 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
7a
2
Sanfte Kuss
A useful addition to the wall that delivers some worthwhile and difficult climbing, although the top section is a little...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7a+
3
Wolfgang Forever Top 50
A good and popular climb. A sustained pitch that contains an array of perplexing sequences split by good shakeouts.
11 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7a
4
Popeye Doyle
Climb the lower wall to the centre of the roof. Pull powerfully through and finish steeply leftwards on pockets and edges.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Strong
7c
5
French Connection UK
Climb the lower wall and first bulge as for Popeye Doyle, then finish on the right of the steepest section of the upper bulge.
 
2 Stars
Strong
7b+
6
Very Sleepy River
Superb flowstone formations on the fingery and technical upper wall. Climb the fist-sized, overhanging crack to a point where...
10 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
6b
7
Edge Hog
A loose start and a contrived crux section have failed to promote this line to classic status.
4 user comments
 7a+
8
Appleturnoverload
An exciting pitch that is steady at the grade. Follow the gently leaning lower wall to a small ledge below the steep upper...
11 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Strong
7a+
9
Toes Curl
Great technical face moves, but the contrived start spoils the overall feel of the route. Don't touch the chimney, it is off...
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
6c+
10
Freaky Ralph
A test-piece of the area with a long reach to a pocket at half-height being the crux. The long reach can be climbed by a short...
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Pumpy
Crimpy
8a+
11
Aim High, Shoot Low
Not as dirty as it once was, but the line is prone to dust being washed down from above. A tricky rightward finish to the...
13 user comments
 
1 Stars
6a+
12
Klepto Krack
The wide crack up which Edge Hog starts.
 
Loose
HVS