Lower Pen Trwyn Right

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Windy

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Rompsville
Steady climbing from the start of Statement leads to a wicked and perplexing finishing wall.
 7b+
2
A Fair Sized Fish
The counter diagonal line to Rompsville which also has a very technical upper wall.
 7c
3
Night Glue
A route which has become one of the classics of LPT. Superb and juggy at the bottom and technical at the top, with a no-hands...
 7a+
4
Martha
A sort of direct on Night Glue but not quite as fine. The lower section follows the curving overlap before you launch up the...
 7c
5
Wall of Voodoo
Good climbing but less popular than Night Glue (probably because it's harder and not as good). It follows the wall to the right...
 7a+
6
Jacuzzi Jive
Probably the best of the trad routes on LPT which has some fine fingery climbing and a hard crux section at the top (by a...
 E4 6a
7
Twisting by the Pool
Another good wall climb with some sharp holds at the bottom and an excellent upper wall.
 E4 6a
8
Passengers
A new route direct up the pillar to a new lower-off. Start as for Voodoo Child. Very eliminate in nature.
 6a+
9
Voodoo Child
This eliminate line crosses Tokolshe Man and includes its crux and its big ledge. The upper wall is thin. Recently resin bolted...
 7a
10
The Cynical Pinnacle
Climb straight up the wall to the detached pinnacle and don't put any Friends behind it.
 ?? 5a
11
The Pink Pinkie Snuffs It
The quality starts again with this technical wall climb. The finish is just far enough away from the Cynical Pinnacle.
 7a
12
Mean Mother
A brilliant and popular route with some superb moves to pass the second bolt. Above this one wire is needed which is pumpy to...
 7b
13
Face Race
More quality climbing with good holds where it matters. Wires needed to get to first bolt.
 7a+
14
Mad O'Rourke's Kipper House
The wall below the left-hand end of the cave. The lower section has one hard move but the crux is the leftwards exit from the...
 6c+
15
New Moon on Monday
A good route at a relatively friendly grade which was omitted from the last guide. Start up the thin crack below the centre of...
 E2 5c
16
Goodbye Mickey Mouse
A relatively straightforward lower section with a technical finish to the right of the cave. The original finish kept going...
 6b
17
Mr. Stormalong
Originally a bold E3, now a popular 5+ starting up Mickey Mouse and following the rising line rightwards.
 5+
18
Bosch Bastards
A very short route with a few hard moves. It stops when the rock deteriorates.
 6b
19
Kaffe Fasset
An excellent climb with a slightly artificial finish up a small white tower.
 6b
20
Choss
A well-named route. Lower-off the third bolt.
 6b
21
Skin Deep
A slightly over-rated route with a steep start that stops many attempts. Above that it gives good steady climbing. Some may...
 6a+
22
Waiting for the Spaceship
A direct version of Skin Deep but with a vague line and little independent climbing. Wires are needed above the second bolt.
 E3 6a
23
Café Libre
A dubious route which tackles the impressive open scoop. The lower-off was lowered after the discovery of some chipped holds on...
 7c
24
La Boheme
Extremely sustained and technical climbing with an intricate line. It is easier if chalked but the moves are still painful on...
 7b
25
La Boheme Direct
Although only short the direct finish is still very worthwhile and a good chunk harder than the original.
 7b+
26
Libertango
The first of a trio of excellent wall climbs to the left of the huge oval-shaped cave. This one is significantly harder than...
 7b+
27
Khashoggis Ship
The rib to the right of the corner.
 6b
28
Beauty is Only
A very popular route with an easier start than Skin Deep. Hard in the middle section.
 6a
29
Skin Game
Another excellent easier climb with steady climbing that is never desperate. Polished and hard at the start.
 6a+
30
Golden Pond
A new line just to the right of Skin Game. A good addition at a useful grade.
 5+
31
Dolphin Therapy
The last line of bolts on the wall.
 6a+
32
Tokoloshe Man
An easier right-hand finish to Twisting by the Pool. The crux is reaching the ledge at the base of the flakes.
 E2 5c