St Tudno's Main

Adjacent Areas
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Trad and Sport

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Life in the Slow Lane
A new sport route up the clean wall to the left of the large cave. Lower-off.
 6a+
2
Speed Livin'
Good rock and good climbingStart below a flake in the wall to the left of the large cave. Climb the flake (peg on left) and...
 E2 5b
3
Fugitive
This long diagonal trip has some loose rock and disjointed climbing. Good old fashioned stuff! Start below a slim diagonal line...
 E1 5b
4
Red October
Another quality wall climb with good protection. Start below a small cave with a crack descending from it. Climb direct to the...
 E3 5c
5
Invisible Touch
The last of this set follows the vague crack left of Red October. The crux is at half height. A Friend 2 is essential.
 E2 5c
6
Stretcher
A long pitch (40m) up the broken crackline to the right of the big chimney. Climb up a slab then move right to a flake below a...
 E1 5c
7
St. Tudno's Chimney
A scrappy route up the big chimney.1) 4b 10m. From the ledge move up leftwards to the big chimney.2) 4b 25m. Climb the...
 VS 4b
8
Trail of Tears
A new sport route of non-resin bolts up the bubbly rock. Lower-off.
 6b
9
For Girls who Grow Plump in the Night
Excellent thin wall climbing. Start just left of a belay bolt.30m. Climb up to a thread and peg. Move up again to a flake...
 E5 6b
10
The Paranoid Schizoid
Very technical climbing direct through the long thin roof above the big right-facing corner/crack of Freudian Slip. Start as...
 E5 6c
11
Freudian Slip
The main central line of the wall has a good first pitch. Start below the right-facing corner/crack.1) 5c 40m. Climb up to...
 E1 5c
12
Freudian Slip Direct
A good sustained direct alternative on the 1st pitch. Start up the original but continue up a crack and rejoin the original...
 E3 6a
13
Man on the Run
A direct line up the wall left of Freudian Slip Direct with some quality climbing. Start as for Freudian Slip but step left...
 E4 6a
14
Fresco
Very scrappy climbing past the large patch of ivy. Start 4m left of the ivy.1) 5b 20m. Climb the wall first left then back...
 E1 5b