Surgeon's Saunter

Adjacent Areas
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Afternoon sun
25 mins
Uphill
Windy

A fine tall and isolated buttress which is rarely busy. The classic crack of Surgeon's Saunter is well worth calling in for and there are several other minor things of interest hereabouts. The north-facing routes can be green but the rest of the climbs are usually in condition.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Kerb
The slabby arete and short groove.
 D
2
Paved Vacuum
Tackle the tricky flake-crack and bulge in the front-face.
 
Strong
Graunchy
HVS 5b
3
Pie Face
Climb the centre of the short green face with surprising difficulty.
 
Technical
VS 5a
4
And There's More
The right arete of the face.
 VS 5a
5
Kindergarten
Another short, green, north-facing wall. Play nicely now.
 
Rounded
VS 4b
6
Child's Play
Balance up the rounded arete finishing to the left.
 
Rounded
Fluttery
HVS 5a
7
Nursery Crack
Tough to grade (it was Diff for years) and tougher to climb. Jamming is the traditional and torrid approach, laybacking is a...
1 user comment
 
Graunchy
VS 5b
8
Doctored
The short wall left of the crack requires one long reach.
 
Reachy
Technical
HVS 5c
9
Cripple's Crack
An awkward customer up the wide right-slanting crack.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Graunchy
S 4a
10
Physician's Wall
The wall right of the crack has a short sharp crux.
 
Technical
E1 6a
11
Which Doctor
Climb a flake, then the face above, until a horizontal break can be followed out right to the arete (small cams). Finish up...
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E5 6a
12
Doctor's Chimney
Climb the crack up the left side of the pillar to reach the impressive chimney system. Tricky moves are then needed to enter...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Graunchy
S 4a
13
Doctor's Saunter
The original way of accessing the twin cracks. Start up the crack to the right of Doctor's Chimney then hand-traverse the...
9 user comments
 
2 Stars
HVS 5a
14
Surgeon's Saunter
A great route with a hard, but safe start and excellent jamming above. The dubious looking jammed tooth at half-height has...
6 user comments
 
3 Stars
Strong
HVS 5b
15
Kelly's Corner
The awkward groove in the corner leads, via a tricky start, into a rocky bay. Escape, or try Niche Climb.
 
Rounded
HVD
16
Heath Robinson
Direct up the bulging right arete of the tower. The sloping exit requires some skill to avoid slithering off backwards. Try...
 
3 Stars
Rounded
Fluttery
E6 6b
17
Niche Climb
From the mid-height ledge, climb the narrowing groove in the left-hand corner of the bay, it usually proves a gritty and...
 
Technical
S 4b
18
Niche Wall
The short green wall on small holds.
 
Technical
VS 5a
19
Manhattan Arete
The jutting arete of the buttress on shelving holds.
1 user comment
 
Fluttery
VD
20
Wilbur's Rib
The prominent hanging arete, finishing slightly left.
 
Fluttery
V1 5b
21
Wilbur's Corner
Tackle the corner.
 
1 Stars
V1 5b
22
Wilbur's Wall
Climb the wall starting from a low break.
 
1 Stars
V2 5c
23
Manhattan Chimney
A short chimney capped by a flat block. Classic back-and-footing leads to the well-protected crux at the capstone.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
S 4a
24
New York, New York
A short arete which is nicely technical.
 
1 Stars
V4 6B
25
Sir Chilled
The scritty extension arete above the previous climb gives a good exercise in dynamic climbing.
 
1 Stars
E5 6b
26
Manhattan Crack
The hard short-lived, layback crack in the angle with a steep and strenuous upper section.
 
Pumpy
VS 4c
27
Rib Tickler
Nip up the short crack and bulging rib above.
 
Pumpy
VS 5a
  • Latest Comments

    For STANAGE NORTH

    Broken In
    "Could also not fin an 5a move, but the climbing is good." 07/Jun

    Seranata
    "A decent little route with a hard move to start. Quite sustained for its stature..." 21/Oct

    Countess Buttress
    "(soft) VS 4b**. As good as Elis' Eliminate, etc. It may be better with a belay p..." 17/Aug

    Graviton
    "VS 5b would seem about right for me. The first mantel felt the hardest and the s..." 11/Jun

    Love Handles
    "Now that a rather stout chap has made Microbe V3, this is no longer a grade hard..." 06/May

    Cave Buttress Right-hand
    "Really nice route. Really solid protection for the first part of the climb, not ..." 10/Apr

    Headbanger
    "This makes a great, but pretty hard, V3 (E1 6a) if climbed on the not-terrifying..." 10/Oct

    Anniversary Arete
    "First moves are probably 5b, maybe the move on to the top slab too. Borderline ..." 23/Sep

    Impossible Slab
    "If you can put a side runner in for the lower crux can you use the crack for eit..." 02/Sep

    Orang-outang
    "Nice moves with a short crux." 25/Jul

    Impossible Slab
    "This route, if you start left of inaccessible crack, is 'Love of my knife'.It go..." 23/Jul

    Norse Corner Climb
    "Bit of a tricky start (fell on my back after a slip low down!) that leads into a..." 13/Jun

    Fate
    "I'm 5'8 and didn't find this reachy at all. I guess you could force a blinkered ..." 10/May

    Impossible Slab
    "a little confused, i started up beautician and then on the top slab climbed a li..." 27/Apr

    High Neb Buttress Variations
    "I found the 'hidden holds' but they didn't help me much - definitely more than 5..." 24/Apr

    Surgeon's Saunter
    "Probably the most fun I've had on a route so far this year. It's just a shame th..." 11/Apr

    Central Buttress
    "Hardest VS I have ever tried!" 26/Oct

    Central Buttress
    "The topo in the latest guide shows the initial traverse being high up, at the fi..." 12/Oct

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