Surgeon's Saunter Area

Adjacent Areas
< End Slab  |  The Wobbler Area >

Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill
25 mins

A fine tall buttress which is rarely busy. The classic crack of Surgeon's Saunter is well worth calling in for. Guidebook page 104.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Doctored
12m. The short wall left of the crack requires one long reach.
 
Reachy
Technical
HVS 5c
2
Cripple's Crack
10m. An awkward customer up the wide right-slanting crack.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
S 4a
3
Physician's Wall
20m. The wall right of the crack has a short sharp crux.
 E1 6a
4
Which Doctor
16m. Climb a flake, then the face above, until a horizontal break can be followed out right to the arete (small Friends)....
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E5 6a
5
Doctor's Chimney
18m. Climb the crack up the left side of the pillar to reach the impressive chimney system. Tricky moves are then needed to...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
S 4a
6
Doctor's Saunter
20m. The original way of accessing the twin cracks. Start up the crack to the right of Doctor's Chimney then hand traverse the...
9 user comments
 
2 Stars
HVS 5a
7
Surgeon's Saunter
18m. A great route with a hard, but protectable start and excellent jamming above. The dubious jammed tooth at half-height has...
6 user comments
 
3 Stars
Strong
HVS 5b
8
Kelly's Corner
6m. The awkward groove in the back right-hand corner leads, via a tricky start, into a rocky bay. Escape, or try The Niche.
 VD
9
Heath Robinson
16m. Direct up the bulging right arete of the tower. The sloping exit requires some skill to avoid slithering off backwards;...
 
3 Stars
Rounded
Fluttery
E6 6b
10
The Niche
8m. Climb the narrowing groove in the left-hand corner of the bay.
 
Technical
S 4b
11
Manhattan Arete
6m. The jutting arete of the buttress on shelving holds.
1 user comment
 
Fluttery
VD
12
Wilbur's Wall
From the low break make a dynamic move for the ledge. The rib to the left is the same grade.
 
1 Stars
V2 5c
13
Manhattan Chimney
6m. A short chimney capped by a flat block. Classic back-and-footing leads to the well protected crux at the capstone.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
S 4a
14
New York, New York
6m. A short arete which is nicely technical. Escape left.
 
1 Stars
V3 6a
15
Sir Chilled
8m. The extension is an exercise in dynamic climbing.
 
1 Stars
E4 6b
16
Manhattan Crack
6m. The excellent, but short-lived, layback crack with a steep and strenuous upper section.
 
Pumpy
VS 4c
  • Latest Comments

    For STANAGE END

    Love Handles
    "Now that a rather stout chap has made Microbe V3, this is no longer a grade hard..." 06/May

    Orang-outang
    "Nice moves with a short crux." 25/Jul

    Surgeon's Saunter
    "Probably the most fun I've had on a route so far this year. It's just a shame th..." 11/Apr

    Richard's Sister
    "The entry into the wide upper crack is a bit awkward." 04/Oct

    Kelly's Eliminate
    "Technically straightforward after a couple of moves off the deck. No way anywhe..." 28/Sep

    Right-hand Tower
    "Monotonous climbing with baggy worn cam placements." 07/Sep

    Slap 'n' Spittle
    "Don't see how this can be E4 6A as that would make it the same grade as Calvery...." 22/Aug

    The Ariel
    "Good warm up and solo" 25/Jun

    Another Turn
    "VS? a joke surely. Yes, it is unprotected, but VD standard climbing. Severe in ..." 13/Jun

    Doctor's Saunter
    "Climbed the start of this yesterday and continued on Doctor's Chimney. Was shock..." 11/May

    Kelly's Eliminate
    "I would say this is potentially undergraded. It feels like 4b with very little ..." 20/Apr

    Kelly's Eliminate
    "Good route. The grading at HS seems fair." 29/Sep

    Search for comments