Surgeon's Saunter Area

Adjacent Areas
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Afternoon sun
25 mins
Uphill

A fine tall buttress which is rarely busy. The classic crack of Surgeon's Saunter is well worth calling in for.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Doctored
12m. The short wall left of the crack requires one long reach.
 
Reachy
Technical
HVS 5c
2
Cripple's Crack
10m. An awkward customer up the wide right-slanting crack.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
S 4a
3
Physician's Wall
20m. The wall right of the crack has a short sharp crux.
 E1 6a
4
Which Doctor
16m. Climb a flake, then the face above, until a horizontal break can be followed out right to the arete (small Friends)....
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E5 6a
5
Doctor's Chimney
18m. Climb the crack up the left side of the pillar to reach the impressive chimney system. Tricky moves are then needed to...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
S 4a
6
Doctor's Saunter
20m. The original way of accessing the twin cracks. Start up the crack to the right of Doctor's Chimney then hand traverse the...
9 user comments
 
2 Stars
HVS 5a
7
Surgeon's Saunter
18m. A great route with a hard, but protectable start and excellent jamming above. The dubious jammed tooth at half-height has...
6 user comments
 
3 Stars
Strong
HVS 5b
8
Kelly's Corner
6m. The awkward groove in the back right-hand corner leads, via a tricky start, into a rocky bay. Escape, or try The Niche.
 VD
9
Heath Robinson
16m. Direct up the bulging right arete of the tower. The sloping exit requires some skill to avoid slithering off backwards;...
 
3 Stars
Rounded
Fluttery
E6 6b
10
The Niche
8m. Climb the narrowing groove in the left-hand corner of the bay.
 
Technical
S 4b
11
Manhattan Arete
6m. The jutting arete of the buttress on shelving holds.
1 user comment
 
Fluttery
VD
12
Wilbur's Wall
From the low break make a dynamic move for the ledge. The rib to the left is the same grade.
 
1 Stars
V2 5c
13
Manhattan Chimney
6m. A short chimney capped by a flat block. Classic back-and-footing leads to the well protected crux at the capstone.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
S 4a
14
New York, New York
6m. A short arete which is nicely technical. Escape left.
 
1 Stars
V3 6A
15
Sir Chilled
8m. The extension is an exercise in dynamic climbing.
 
1 Stars
E4 6b
16
Manhattan Crack
6m. The excellent, but short-lived, layback crack with a steep and strenuous upper section.
 
Pumpy
VS 4c
  • Latest Comments

    For STANAGE END

    Love Handles
    "Now that a rather stout chap has made Microbe V3, this is no longer a grade hard..." 06/May

    Orang-outang
    "Nice moves with a short crux." 25/Jul

    Surgeon's Saunter
    "Probably the most fun I've had on a route so far this year. It's just a shame th..." 11/Apr

    Richard's Sister
    "The entry into the wide upper crack is a bit awkward." 04/Oct

    Kelly's Eliminate
    "Technically straightforward after a couple of moves off the deck. No way anywhe..." 28/Sep

    Right-hand Tower
    "Monotonous climbing with baggy worn cam placements." 07/Sep

    Slap 'n' Spittle
    "Don't see how this can be E4 6A as that would make it the same grade as Calvery...." 22/Aug

    The Ariel
    "Good warm up and solo" 25/Jun

    Another Turn
    "VS? a joke surely. Yes, it is unprotected, but VD standard climbing. Severe in ..." 13/Jun

    Doctor's Saunter
    "Climbed the start of this yesterday and continued on Doctor's Chimney. Was shock..." 11/May

    Kelly's Eliminate
    "I would say this is potentially undergraded. It feels like 4b with very little ..." 20/Apr

    Kelly's Eliminate
    "Good route. The grading at HS seems fair." 29/Sep

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