Surgeon's Saunter

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Morning sun
25 mins
Uphill
Windy

A fine, tall and isolated buttress which is rarely busy. The classic crack of Surgeon's Saunter is well worth calling in for and there are several other minor things of interest hereabouts. The north-facing routes can be green but the rest of the climbs are usually in condition.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Kerb
The slabby arete and short groove.
1 user comment
 D
2
Paved Vacuum
Tackle the tricky flake-crack and bulge in the front-face.
 
Strong
Graunchy
HVS
3
Pie Face
Climb the centre of the short green face with surprising difficulty.
 
Technical
VS
4
And There's More
The right arete of the face.
 VS
5
Kindergarten
Another short, green, north-facing wall. Play nicely now.
 VS
6
Child's Play
Balance up the rounded arete finishing to the left.
 HVS
7
Nursery Crack
Tough to grade (it was Diff for years) and tougher to climb. Jamming is the traditional and torrid approach, laybacking is a...
1 user comment
 
Graunchy
VS
8
Doctored
The short wall left of the crack requires one long reach.
 
Technical
HVS
9
Cripple's Crack
An awkward customer up the wide right-slanting crack.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Graunchy
S
10
Physician's Wall
The wall right of the crack has a short sharp crux.
 
Technical
E1
11
Which Doctor
Climb a flake, then the face above, until a horizontal break can be followed out right to the arete (small cams). Finish up...
 
1 Stars
E5
12
Doctor's Chimney
Climb the crack up the left side of the pillar to reach the impressive chimney system. Tricky moves are then needed to enter...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Graunchy
S
13
Doctor's Saunter
The original way of accessing the twin cracks. Start up the crack to the right of Doctor's Chimney then hand-traverse the...
9 user comments
 
2 Stars
HVS
14
Surgeon's Saunter
A great route with a hard, but safe start and excellent jamming above. The dubious looking jammed tooth at half-height has...
6 user comments
 
3 Stars
Strong
HVS
15
Kelly's Corner
The awkward groove in the corner leads, via a tricky start, into a rocky bay. Escape, or try Niche Climb.
 HVD
16
Heath Robinson
Direct up the bulging right arete of the tower. The sloping exit requires some skill to avoid slithering off backwards. Try...
 
3 Stars
E6
17
Niche Climb
From the mid-height ledge, climb the narrowing groove in the left-hand corner of the bay - it usually proves a gritty and...
 
Technical
S
18
Niche Wall
The short green wall on small holds.
 
Technical
VS
19
Manhattan Arete
The jutting arete of the buttress on shelving holds.
1 user comment
 VD
20
Wilbur's Wall
Climb the wall starting from a low break.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
f5+
21
Wilbur's Rib
The prominent hanging arete, finishing slightly left.
 f5
22
Wilbur's Corner
Tackle the corner.
 
1 Stars
f5
23
Manhattan Chimney
A short chimney capped by a flat block. Classic back-and-footing leads to the well-protected crux at the capstone.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
S
24
New York, New York
A short arete - nicely technical.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
f6B
25
Sir Chilled
The scritty extension arete above the previous climb gives a good exercise in dynamic climbing.
 
1 Stars
E5
26
Manhattan Crack
The hard short-lived, layback crack in the angle with a steep and strenuous upper section.
 VS
27
Rib Tickler
Nip up the short crack and bulging rib above.
 VS
  • Latest Comments

    For STANAGE NORTH

    Mouthpiece
    "Changed from E1 5b ** to E1 5c **, no votes" 23/Mar

    Broken In
    "Could also not fin an 5a move, but the climbing is good." 07/Jun

    Seranata
    "A decent little route with a hard move to start. Quite sustained for its stature..." 21/Oct

    Countess Buttress
    "(soft) VS 4b**. As good as Elis' Eliminate, etc. It may be better with a belay p..." 17/Aug

    Graviton
    "VS 5b would seem about right for me. The first mantel felt the hardest and the s..." 11/Jun

    Love Handles
    "Now that a rather stout chap has made Microbe V3, this is no longer a grade hard..." 06/May

    Cave Buttress Right-hand
    "Really nice route. Really solid protection for the first part of the climb, not ..." 10/Apr

    Headbanger
    "This makes a great, but pretty hard, V3 (E1 6a) if climbed on the not-terrifying..." 10/Oct

    Anniversary Arete
    "First moves are probably 5b, maybe the move on to the top slab too. Borderline ..." 23/Sep

    Impossible Slab
    "If you can put a side runner in for the lower crux can you use the crack for eit..." 02/Sep

    Orang-outang
    "Nice moves with a short crux." 25/Jul

    Impossible Slab
    "This route, if you start left of inaccessible crack, is 'Love of my knife'.It go..." 23/Jul

    Norse Corner Climb
    "Bit of a tricky start (fell on my back after a slip low down!) that leads into a..." 13/Jun

    Fate
    "I'm 5'8 and didn't find this reachy at all. I guess you could force a blinkered ..." 10/May

    Impossible Slab
    "a little confused, i started up beautician and then on the top slab climbed a li..." 27/Apr

    High Neb Buttress Variations
    "I found the 'hidden holds' but they didn't help me much - definitely more than 5..." 24/Apr

    Surgeon's Saunter
    "Probably the most fun I've had on a route so far this year. It's just a shame th..." 11/Apr

    Central Buttress
    "Hardest VS I have ever tried!" 26/Oct

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