Llandulas Cave Routes

Adjacent Areas
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Sport

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Karmic Wind
Just left of the large patch of Ivy. The hangars have been removed.
 ??
2
Early Bird
Just left of the cave is a groove above some holes. Follow this and the wide crack above to the top. Loose and unrecommendable.
 E3 5c
3
Main Overhang
A historic expedition through the main cave, following various bits and pieces of tat. Not likely to be freed for some time.
 ??
4
Guano on Sight
The Deep Space of North Wales. Go into the back right-hand wall of the cave and climb out to daylight past 2 threads. Often...
 E2 5c
5
The Wirral Whip
Thin and technical climbing up the right-hand wall of the cave. The first bolt is high, but easy to get to. There is a peg over...
 7c+
6
Mudjekeewis
A slightly easier companion route, with more bolts, which finishes up the short arete to the right of The Wirral Whip.
 7c
7
Pearl from the Shell
A fine route which has recently been rebolted. The lower wall is technical and the finish is steep.
 6c+
8
Searching
Similar to its neighbour but not quite as good. The run-out at the top makes it feel a bit more like E4 than 6c+.
 6c+
9
P.C.Wimpout
From the far left-hand end of the ledge climb a groove past a thread. Descend by walking up the ridge then back down rightwards...
 E2 5c
10
Afterglow
From the thread on P.C.Wimpout, traverse right and up the wall. Not very good.
 E2 5c
11
White Honkey
The left-hand line of bolts on the wall. It is possible to ignore the last bolt and finish as for Ralarwdins which is slightly...
 6b+
12
Ralarwdins
The best route on the wall. Superb climbing with a great finish which is much steeper than it looks. "So good they bolted it...
 6b
13
Stretcharmstrong
More quality climbing up the steep wall with another good finish. 6 bolts protect.
 6c+
14
The Man with the Indiarubber Head
Good steady climbing past 8 bolts.
 6a
15
Udder Head
Another fine long route with 6 bolts. Slightly spoilt by the ledge but the finish is good up the leftwards leaning groove.
 6a
16
Name of the Pose
This one is definitely spoilt by the ledge but even so it manages to include a nice upper section which has an awkward finish....
 6a+
17
Runout Groove
The name says it all. Climb up past 2 bolts then step left into an open groove and follow it to the top. Walk up left to abseil...
 E3 5c
18
Field of Dreams
Start as for the previous route but continue direct past 1 more bolt.
 6b
19
Nameless
Start up the main central line of bolts in the scoop and swing left. The hangars have been removed.
 ??
20
Prime the Pump
Fine steep climbing up the scoop into a niche. Leaving this onto the upper wall is hard. 5 bolts. Very hard for the short.
 7b
21
Forgotten Sun
A very short direct version of the previous route. 2 bolts only but quite good climbing.
 6a+
22
Trail of the Snail
Climb the right-hand edge of the scoop then traverse left to the lower-off on Prime the Pump past 3 bolts. There is a project...
 6b
23
Nameless
A leftwards trending line starting just left of the small cave.
 6c