Portland Heights Area

Adjacent Areas
< Go With the Flow and Niagra Area  |  None >

Sport
Sun from mid-morning
13 mins
Up and Down

This area has now been completely developed to yield some excellent long pocketed wall climbs. It is one of the first and best west coast crags to receive the sun in the morning. Some of the rock is a little crisp and shelly.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Sniffin' Glue
Takes the blunt arete right of Gaze of the Gorgon. The crux has possibly lost a hold in recent times.
 
1 Stars
Technical
7a+
2
Athenian Tactics
Climb up the big crack to a foot-ledge. Continue over some flowstone bulges on undercuts and smears to a hard and reachy finish...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
7b+
3
Corinthian Spirit
Fine rock and a bouldery crux. Start as for Cybernetic Orchard before swinging left up a ramp at its fifth bolt.
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7b+
4
Cybernetic Orchard
A good, strong line that gradually increases in difficulty with height gained. Start left of a low overhang, at a bolt above a...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
7a+
5
The Long Walk
Intricate and sustained climbing up the wall just to the right of the long groove of Cybernetic Orchard. Start right of a low...
7 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7b
6
Portland Heights Top 50
A popular and sustained face climb. Start right of a low overhang below a difficult-to-see bolt. Climb up broken ground, then...
9 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7a
7
Grand Larceny
An eliminate line. Start at a bolt-belay above broken ground, which is gained by abseil. Alternatively, climb up the initial...
5 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
7a+
8
Burning Skies Top 50
A first class climb that features some great climbing on very good rock. Start at a horizontally-placed staple, just to the...
11 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
6b+
9
Isle of Slingers
A popular line with good moves and rock. Start at a crack-line in the lower wall. Move up the lower wall and climb directly up...
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
6c+
10
Lord Stublock Deepvoid Breaks the Chain of Causation Top 50
A really good, long wall-pitch on fine rock. Start at a crack-line in the lower wall. Climb the gradually-steepening wall to a...
6 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
6b+
11
Dusty Bedrock in Need of Careful Preparation
A big pitch that crosses the wide chimney. Start left of the wide crack that becomes a chimney higher up. Climb the wall via...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
7a+
12
Cocteau Phenomena
An impressive line up the steep wall to the left of the dominating arete. Start just to the right of the wide crack. Climb up...
4 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7b+
13
The Chronicles of Vladimir
A steep start gains the hanging arete. Start below the roofs. Climb up through the stack of overhangs and then climb the arete...
 
Technical
6c+
14
Ausfahrt
A much-travelled favourite. Start below a wide crack on the right of an overhang at 4m. Climb up past the overhang, and then...
10 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
6b+
15
Screw the Roses, Send me the Thorns
Sustained wall climbing on a direct line at the lower limit of the grade. Start at the wall just right of an overhang at 4m....
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
7a+
16
The Shells, The Shells
Eliminate in style, but worthwhile climbing. Start below a diagonal crack and a bolt between two staples. Climb the lower dirty...
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
7a
17
Driven Like the Snow
A Portland gem. Start at a boulder on the path. Climb the lower wall to below a long crack-line. Move up the crack until a line...
9 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
6b+
18
Return to Roissy
The long crack is a good route. Start at a boulder on the path. Climb the lower wall to below a long flake-crack. Climb the...
15 user comments
 
2 Stars
6b+
19
Last Rose of Summer
Pleasant climbing punctuated by some fairly tough moves. Start below a semi-circular cut-out above the first break. Climb to...
8 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
7a
20
Through the Barricades
Fine climbing with the crux in the final groove giving a sustained section of thin climbing. Low in the grade. Start below a...
8 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7a+
21
Step Away from the Gingga
A good pitch. Climb to the third bolt of Babelicious Redhead then step left and climb the steepening shallow groove on shell...
 
1 Stars
7a
22
Babelicious Redhead
A friendly climb. Start below a cave at 3m, and climb up past it. Follow the steep wall above on crimps and pockets.
12 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
6c
23
Chasing the Sun
A worthwhile climb that gives some good wall climbing after a rather dirty initial section.
4 user comments
 
Technical
Crimpy
6c+
24
The Angry Sea
An easier diagonal line linking into Chasing The Sun..
2 user comments
 
Technical
Crimpy
6c
25
The Wrecked Finger
An interesting line that has a section of crack climbing in its upper reaches (this is a bolted section of the trad line...
1 user comment
 
Pumpy
6a+
  • Latest Comments

    For BLACKNOR CENTRAL

    Dusty Bedrock in Need of Careful Preparation
    "A quality route, with good rock and great moves up the big wall. Easy 7a+ maybe ..." 27/May

    When This Hits the Fan
    "A top route: sustained, great positions, not much friable rock in evidence. Dest..." 18/Aug

    Portland Heights
    "Crux comes at an unexpected point which caught me out for the onsight. Other tha..." 29/Apr top50

    The Wrecked Finger
    "Nice steady start, interesting mid section and very tricky finish. Well named!" 02/Apr

    Dudas sin nombres
    "Decent climb, interesting rock." 05/Feb

    Through the Barricades
    "Done a few of the routes hereabouts and this ranks amongst them as definitely 7a..." 21/Oct

    Last Rose of Summer
    "I think I seconded this on the fa. One of Pete's best imho..." 10/Sep

    That Honeycomb Centre
    "More solid and pumpy that it looks. Really good addition to the sector. 1.5 ..." 03/Sep

    Gaze of the Gorgon
    "The start has been re-cleaned and re-bolted. The second bolt came out with two b..." 07/Dec

    Gaze of the Gorgon
    "Seconded. Danger of dying on this route! Avoid." 27/Jun

    Twangy Pearl
    "Great route although agreed with the comments about it being 2 stars. Personall..." 11/Apr top50

    The Angry Sea
    "Same crux as Chasing but a much easier approach. Well worth doing though if you ..." 10/Aug

    Babelicious Redhead
    "the route which starts up Babelicious and breaks left after 3 bolts is "ste..." 09/Jul

    Gaze of the Gorgon
    "This route is currently in a dangerous state. The winter frosts have made the ro..." 08/Jul

    Babelicious Redhead
    "There's now another route squeezed in between Babelecious and Through the Barric..." 04/May

    Dudas sin nombres
    "Not a classic, but I wouldn't call it shite either. My mate and I both moved lef..." 28/Apr

    Pregnant Pause
    "Did Paws for Thought. I thought 6a plus, but holds still brittle. With traffic w..." 26/Apr top50

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