Portland Heights Area

Adjacent Areas
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Sport
Sun from mid-morning
Up and Down
13 mins

This area has now been completely developed to yield some excellent long pocketed wall climbs. It is one of the first and best west coast crags to receive the sun in the morning. Some of the rock is a little crisp and shelly. Guidebook page 83.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Sniffin' Glue
Takes the blunt arete right of Gaze of the Gorgon. The crux has possibly lost a hold in recent times.
 
1 Stars
Technical
7a+
2
Athenian Tactics
Climb up the big crack to a foot-ledge. Continue over some flowstone bulges on undercuts and smears to a hard and reachy finish...
 
1 Stars
Technical
7b+
3
Corinthian Spirit
Fine rock and a bouldery crux. Start as for Cybernetic Orchard before swinging left up a ramp at its fifth bolt.
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7b+
4
Cybernetic Orchard
A good, strong line that gradually increases in difficulty with height gained. Start left of a low overhang, at a bolt above a...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
7a+
5
I Walk the Line
Intricate and sustained climbing up the wall just to the right of the long groove of Cybernetic Orchard. Start right of a low...
7 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7b
6
Portland Heights Top 50
A popular and sustained face climb. Start right of a low overhang below a difficult-to-see bolt. Climb up broken ground, then...
8 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7a
7
Grand Larceny
An eliminate line. Start at a bolt-belay above broken ground, which is gained by abseil. Alternatively, climb up the initial...
5 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
7a+
8
Burning Skies Top 50
A first class climb that features some great climbing on very good rock. Start at a horizontally-placed staple, just to the...
11 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
6b+
9
Isle of Slingers
A popular line with good moves and rock. Start at a crack-line in the lower wall. Move up the lower wall and climb directly up...
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
6c+
10
Lord Stublock Deepvoid Breaks the Chain of Causation Top 50
A really good, long wall-pitch on fine rock. Start at a crack-line in the lower wall. Climb the gradually-steepening wall to a...
6 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
6b+
11
Dusty Bedrock in Need of Careful Preparation
A big pitch that crosses the wide chimney. Start left of the wide crack that becomes a chimney higher up. Climb the wall via...
 
1 Stars
7a+
12
Cocteau Phenomena
An impressive line up the steep wall to the left of the dominating arete. Start just to the right of the wide crack. Climb up...
4 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7b+
13
The Chronicles of Vladimir
A steep start gains the hanging arete. Start below the roofs. Climb up through the stack of overhangs and then climb the arete...
 
Technical
6c+
14
Ausfahrt
A much-travelled favourite. Start below a wide crack on the right of an overhang at 4m. Climb up past the overhang, and then...
10 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
6b+
  • Latest Comments

    For BLACKNOR CENTRAL

    When This Hits the Fan
    "A top route: sustained, great positions, not much friable rock in evidence. Dest..." 18/Aug

    Portland Heights
    "Crux comes at an unexpected point which caught me out for the onsight. Other tha..." 29/Apr top50

    The Wrecked Finger
    "Nice steady start, interesting mid section and very tricky finish. Well named!" 02/Apr

    Dudas sin nombres
    "Decent climb, interesting rock." 05/Feb

    Through the Barricades
    "Done a few of the routes hereabouts and this ranks amongst them as definitely 7a..." 21/Oct

    Last Rose of Summer
    "I think I seconded this on the fa. One of Pete's best imho..." 10/Sep

    That Honeycomb Centre
    "More solid and pumpy that it looks. Really good addition to the sector. 1.5 ..." 03/Sep

    Gaze of the Gorgon
    "The start has been re-cleaned and re-bolted. The second bolt came out with two b..." 07/Dec

    Gaze of the Gorgon
    "Seconded. Danger of dying on this route! Avoid." 27/Jun

    Twangy Pearl
    "Great route although agreed with the comments about it being 2 stars. Personall..." 11/Apr top50

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