Sacred Angel Area

Adjacent Areas
< Sharbutts Quarry  |  Medusa Falls Area >

Sport
Sun and Shade
12 mins
Downhill

A fine wall of vertical rock, suited to those with a technical bent and strong fingers. Some of the lines are useful for groups looking for climbing in the lower grades.
Approach - From the car park, walk to the cliff-top path and walk right for 80m. Scramble down into a quarry, walk through a large block wall and then down a narrow gully at the far end of the quarry (rope sometimes in place). This gully emerges below the Medusa Falls Area on Blacknor South. The wall is to the right when exiting the base of the chimney/gully.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Dirty Cow
A decent wall pitch, although the rock is snappy. The bolts are spaced, but not dangerously so.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
7a
2
Spontaneous Cattle Combustion
A pleasing pitch which is fairly reasonable at the grade if the correct sequence is unlocked. Toughest at the top.
6 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
6c+
3
How Now Brown Cow
An eliminate straight up the wall to a fingery finale.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
6c+
4
Talk
An enjoyable route with interesting moves up the lay-back crack with the added extra of an exciting finish.
11 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
6a+
5
Toe the Line
Much easier than first appearances would suggest. Good, fun climbing which can be finished straight up or out right.
8 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
6b
6
Sacred Angel
Another quality line that is at the bottom of the grade.
9 user comments
 
2 Stars
Crimpy
7a
7
Pining for Glossop
Similar to Sacred Angel, but slightly better and tougher.
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
7a
8
I Love the Smell of Resin in the Morning
The wall left of a big corner is a bit of an eliminate and features a tough finish.
7 user comments
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
6c
9
Love in the Mist
A short line up the arete and wall to a mid-height lower-off.
1 user comment
 6a
10
Draper's Henchmen
An easy start leads to a step left to jugs at the bulge then back right immediately.
2 user comments
 
Reachy
Technical
7a+
11
Oblivion is Forever
The belay is a bit too low, so top-out first to get the tick. Only 6a if not climbed past the belay.
9 user comments
 
1 Stars
6c
12
Silent, but Deadly
A technical slab. Climb the top crux direct, since it is probably only 6c if you escape to the left or right.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
6c+
13
Hot Pants Explosion
The small bulge near the top gives the crux. Take it on the left via a tiny seam.
8 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
6b+
14
Well Done Poppet
A very popular introduction to the climbing in this area. The finish provides the crux.
16 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
5a
15
Do Ixtlan
A good pitch that has some excellent wall-climbing and a perplexing finish, especially if the hard-to-see hold is missed.
14 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
4c
16
Imperfect
Once the start is dispatched, cruise to the lower-off which is located some way below the top of the cliff. A good first lead.
8 user comments
 
1 Stars
3+
17
Lifeline
The photogenic arete. Climb steep ground on pockets to an easing midway up the arete. Move up and step left to finish up the...
24 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
6a+
18
It's My Life
A good, well-trodden line, with interesting moves.
13 user comments
 
1 Stars
5a