Sacred Angel Area

Adjacent Areas
< Sharbutts Quarry  |  Medusa Falls Area >

Sport
Afternoon sun
12 mins
Downhill

A fine wall of vertical rock, suited to those with a technical bent and strong fingers. Some of the lines are useful for groups looking for climbing in the lower grades.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Dirty Cow
A decent wall pitch, although the rock is snappy. The bolts are spaced, but not dangerously so.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
7a
2
Spontaneous Cattle Combustion
A pleasing pitch which is fairly reasonable at the grade if the correct sequence is unlocked. Toughest at the top.
6 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
6c+
3
How Now Brown Cow
An eliminate straight up the wall to a fingery finale.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
6c+
4
Talk
An enjoyable route with interesting moves up the lay-back crack with the added extra of an exciting finish.
11 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
6a+
5
Toe the Line
Much easier than first appearances would suggest. Good, fun climbing which can be finished straight up or out right.
8 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
6b
6
Sacred Angel
Another quality line that is at the bottom of the grade.
9 user comments
 
2 Stars
Crimpy
7a
7
Pining for Glossop
Similar to Sacred Angel, but slightly better and tougher.
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
7a
8
I Love the Smell of Resin in the Morning
The wall left of a big corner is a bit of an eliminate and features a tough finish.
7 user comments
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
6c
9
Love in the Mist
A short line up the arete and wall to a mid-height lower-off.
1 user comment
 6a
10
Draper's Henchmen
An easy start leads to a step left to jugs at the bulge then back right immediately.
2 user comments
 
Reachy
Technical
7a+
11
Oblivion is Forever
The belay is a bit too low, so top-out first to get the tick. Only 6a if not climbed past the belay.
9 user comments
 
1 Stars
6c
12
Silent, but Deadly
A technical slab. Climb the top crux direct, since it is probably only 6c if you escape to the left or right.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
6c+
13
Hot Pants Explosion
The small bulge near the top gives the crux. Take it on the left via a tiny seam.
8 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
6b+
14
Well Done Poppet
A very popular introduction to the climbing in this area. The finish provides the crux.
14 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
5a
15
Do Ixtlan
A good pitch that has some excellent wall-climbing and a perplexing finish, especially if the hard-to-see hold is missed.
12 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
4c
16
Imperfect
Once the start is dispatched, cruise to the lower-off which is located some way below the top of the cliff. A good first lead.
8 user comments
 
1 Stars
3+
17
Lifeline
The photogenic arete. Climb steep ground on pockets to an easing midway up the arete. Move up and step left to finish up the...
24 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
6a+
18
It's My Life
A good, well-trodden line, with interesting moves.
11 user comments
 
1 Stars
5a
  • Latest Comments

    For BLACKNOR SOUTH

    Medusa Falls
    "Overated because it looks good. Slippy rock and unbalanced after the first few m..." 27/May top50

    Pining for Glossop
    "Much preferred this to sacred angel: pleasantly sustained and interesting moves...." 01/Jul

    Love in the Mist
    "Very pleasant route that finishes all too quickly. 6a *" 02/Apr

    To Wish the Impossible
    "Super climbing, crisp holds and a bit thuggy near the top. Easier than some Batt..." 05/Feb top50

    Well Done Poppet
    "Loose belay bolts replaced." 29/Mar

    Do Ixtlan
    "A third bolt has been added to the belay: the lower horizontal staple is loose." 01/Jun

    Cute Ass
    "painful lower wall climbing on sharp unpleasant rock, great contrast in smooth u..." 05/Oct

    Lifeline
    "Agree with previous comment (though we did do it together..!!). Committing pull ..." 26/Sep

    It's My Life
    "I'd say 5 is about right - steep with lovely varied moves. Good route." 23/Aug

    Cute Ass
    "a good route if you like this kind of crunchy rock style! i think your motivated..." 07/May

    Toe the Line
    "Beautiful technical 2nd half; it could be b+." 04/May

    Seaman Stains
    "Bold second clip due to the fact that the rock is a bit crumbly. Took a flyer wh..." 21/Nov

    Snakes Alive
    "There is a new line to the right of this on hangers, I found it very hard about ..." 30/Oct

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