Sacred Angel Area

Adjacent Areas
< Sharbutts Quarry  |  Medusa Falls Area >

Sport
Afternoon sun
Downhill
12 mins

A fine wall of vertical rock, suited to those with a technical bent and strong fingers. Some of the lines are useful for groups looking for climbing in the lower grades. Guidebook page 91.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Dirty Cow
A decent wall pitch, although the rock is snappy. The bolts are spaced, but not dangerously so.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
7a
2
Spontaneous Cattle Combustion
A pleasing pitch which is fairly reasonable at the grade if the correct sequence is unlocked. Toughest at the top.
6 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
6c+
3
How Now Brown Cow
An eliminate straight up the wall to a fingery finale.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
6c+
4
Talk
An enjoyable route with interesting moves up the lay-back crack with the added extra of an exciting finish.
11 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
6a+
5
Toe the Line
Much easier than first appearances would suggest. Good, fun climbing which can be finished straight up or out right.
8 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
6b
6
Sacred Angel
Another quality line that is at the bottom of the grade.
9 user comments
 
2 Stars
Crimpy
7a
7
Pining for Glossop
Similar to Sacred Angel, but slightly better and tougher.
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
7a
8
I Love the Smell of Resin in the Morning
The wall left of a big corner is a bit of an eliminate and features a tough finish.
7 user comments
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
6c
9
Love in the Mist
A short line up the arete and wall to a mid-height lower-off.
1 user comment
 6a
10
Draper's Henchmen
An easy start leads to a step left to jugs at the bulge then back right immediately.
2 user comments
 
Reachy
Technical
7a+
11
Oblivion is Forever
The belay is a bit too low, so top-out first to get the tick. Only 6a if not climbed past the belay.
9 user comments
 
1 Stars
6c
12
Silent, but Deadly
A technical slab. Climb the top crux direct, since it is probably only 6c if you escape to the left or right.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
6c+
13
Hot Pants Explosion
The small bulge near the top gives the crux. Take it on the left via a tiny seam.
8 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
6b+
14
Well Done Poppet
A very popular introduction to the climbing in this area. The finish provides the crux.
14 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
5
15
Do Ixtlan
A good pitch that has some excellent wall-climbing and a perplexing finish, especially if the hard-to-see hold is missed.
12 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
4+
16
Imperfect
Once the start is dispatched, cruise to the lower-off which is located some way below the top of the cliff. A good first lead.
8 user comments
 
1 Stars
3+
17
Lifeline
The photogenic arete. Climb steep ground on pockets to an easing midway up the arete. Move up and step left to finish up the...
24 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
6a+
18
It's My Life
A good, well-trodden line, with interesting moves.
11 user comments
 
1 Stars
5
  • Latest Comments

    For BLACKNOR SOUTH

    Pining for Glossop
    "Much preferred this to sacred angel: pleasantly sustained and interesting moves...." 01/Jul

    Love in the Mist
    "Very pleasant route that finishes all too quickly. 6a *" 02/Apr

    To Wish the Impossible
    "Super climbing, crisp holds and a bit thuggy near the top. Easier than some Batt..." 05/Feb top50

    Well Done Poppet
    "Loose belay bolts replaced." 29/Mar

    Do Ixtlan
    "A third bolt has been added to the belay: the lower horizontal staple is loose." 01/Jun

    Cute Ass
    "painful lower wall climbing on sharp unpleasant rock, great contrast in smooth u..." 05/Oct

    Lifeline
    "Agree with previous comment (though we did do it together..!!). Committing pull ..." 26/Sep

    It's My Life
    "I'd say 5 is about right - steep with lovely varied moves. Good route." 23/Aug

    Cute Ass
    "a good route if you like this kind of crunchy rock style! i think your motivated..." 07/May

    Toe the Line
    "Beautiful technical 2nd half; it could be b+." 04/May

    Seaman Stains
    "Bold second clip due to the fact that the rock is a bit crumbly. Took a flyer wh..." 21/Nov

    Snakes Alive
    "There is a new line to the right of this on hangers, I found it very hard about ..." 30/Oct

    Seaman Stains
    "Top tip. Do No Ifs No Butts first and swing across on the way down and place a l..." 26/Aug

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