Medusa Falls Area

Adjacent Areas
< Sacred Angel Area  |  None >

Sport
Afternoon sun
Downhill
12 mins

A superb wall with stunning flowstone that is also slightly less exposed to the weather than the other Blacknor crags. Guidebook page 92.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
The Lizard of Oz Top 50
Great fun. A popular introduction to the flowstone experience. The start is the crux, but save something for the strenny...
22 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
6a+
2
Snakes Alive
A very good series of moves. The fourth bolt is difficult to clip.
6 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
6b
3
Slither
A tight line. Crimps on the steep lower wall lead to long and balancy moves up a faint crack in the upper slab.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7a+
4
Medusa Falls Top 50
An incredible frozen sheet of flowstone pipes. The initial section is insecure and slippery if taken direct.
21 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
7a
5
To Wish the Impossible Top 50
A superb pitch. Sustained and delicate climbing with a strenny finish.
11 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
7a
6
Psychosomatic Addict
Very similar to To Wish the Impossible, with escalating difficulties up the wall, narrow groove and headwall.
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
7a+
7
Crack My Bitch Up
An easy corner leads to a hard, exposed finish.
19 user comments
 
1 Stars
6b
8
Kamikaze Moped
A short-lived fingery section and a good finish.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7a
9
The Oldest Profession
Sometimes wet, but it is worth waiting for.
6 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7a
10
Loose Cannon
The black rib has some good moves.
8 user comments
 
2 Stars
Crimpy
7a
11
Turned to Stone Top 50
One of Portland's finest routes. Some thin pocket moves and a great finish all on immaculate flowstone.
11 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
6c+
12
Skids of Mark
The smooth wall has difficult moves over a bulge. Finishing up the upper section of Turned to Stone gives a worthwhile 7a+.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
7b
13
Bum Droplets
An exciting route that looks like its name. The upper layback section takes a little working out.
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
6b+
14
Cut Throat Jake
Quality climbing with a pocketed lower wall.
8 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
6b
15
Cute Ass
A fingery headwall similar to the Battleship Edge routes.
5 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7a
16
No Ifs, No Butts
The wall right of Cute Ass direct to a slim finishing groove and headwall.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
6c
17
Seaman Stains
Similar to the others on this section of the crag. Go careful with the clips and rock low down.
5 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
6c
18
Hello Sailor
A good line up the shallow arete.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
6c
19
Master Bates
A fine sustained groove leads to a swing left at the mid-height crux shelf.
6 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
6b+
20
Kite Marks
The wall, narrow groove and upper overhang.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
7a
21
Captain Pugwash
Varied with a balancy start leading to a wild finish through the roof on buckets. It is worth trying to add a bit to the finish...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
6c+
22
Roger the Cabin Boy
Similar climbing to Captain Pugwash. The flake on the crux is suspect so treat it with care. Low in the grade.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
6b+
23
The Black Pig
The huge leaning arete at the end of the raised ledge is split by a rest ledge. Photogenic with fine moves high up.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7b
24
Still My Bleeding Heart
The long corner flake is dirty and loose.
3 user comments
 
Loose
6a+
  • Latest Comments

    For BLACKNOR SOUTH

    Pining for Glossop
    "Much preferred this to sacred angel: pleasantly sustained and interesting moves...." 01/Jul

    Love in the Mist
    "Very pleasant route that finishes all too quickly. 6a *" 02/Apr

    To Wish the Impossible
    "Super climbing, crisp holds and a bit thuggy near the top. Easier than some Batt..." 05/Feb top50

    Well Done Poppet
    "Loose belay bolts replaced." 29/Mar

    Do Ixtlan
    "A third bolt has been added to the belay: the lower horizontal staple is loose." 01/Jun

    Cute Ass
    "painful lower wall climbing on sharp unpleasant rock, great contrast in smooth u..." 05/Oct

    Lifeline
    "Agree with previous comment (though we did do it together..!!). Committing pull ..." 26/Sep

    It's My Life
    "I'd say 5 is about right - steep with lovely varied moves. Good route." 23/Aug

    Cute Ass
    "a good route if you like this kind of crunchy rock style! i think your motivated..." 07/May

    Toe the Line
    "Beautiful technical 2nd half; it could be b+." 04/May

    Seaman Stains
    "Bold second clip due to the fact that the rock is a bit crumbly. Took a flyer wh..." 21/Nov

    Snakes Alive
    "There is a new line to the right of this on hangers, I found it very hard about ..." 30/Oct

    Seaman Stains
    "Top tip. Do No Ifs No Butts first and swing across on the way down and place a l..." 26/Aug

    Master Bates
    "Reckon 7a harsh but fair for Kite Marks - got spat off at the reachy move then s..." 11/Jul

    Medusa Falls
    "a tricky start (if climbed direct) with good but slightly insecure moves leads t..." 05/Jul top50

    To Wish the Impossible
    "Excellent climbing, at lower end of the grade, possibly 6c+. Fair bit easier tha..." 30/Jun top50

    Master Bates
    "The route to the right - Kite Marks - is nails for 6c+. The climbing is quite go..." 23/Jun

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