Adjacent Areas
< Sacred Angel Area | None >
Sport
Afternoon sun
Downhill
12 minsWindy
A superb wall with stunning flowstone that is also slightly less exposed to the weather than the other Blacknor crags. Guidebook page 92.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
The Lizard of Oz Top 50 Great fun. A popular introduction to the flowstone experience. The start is the crux, but save something for the strenny... 22 user comments | 2 Stars Technical Pumpy | 6a+ |
2 |
Snakes Alive A very good series of moves. The fourth bolt is difficult to clip. 6 user comments | 1 Stars Technical Fluttery | 6b |
3 |
Slither A tight line. Crimps on the steep lower wall lead to long and balancy moves up a faint crack in the upper slab. | 1 Stars Technical Crimpy | 7a+ |
4 |
Medusa Falls Top 50 An incredible frozen sheet of flowstone pipes. The initial section is insecure and slippery if taken direct. 21 user comments | 3 Stars Technical | 7a |
5 |
To Wish the Impossible Top 50 A superb pitch. Sustained and delicate climbing with a strenny finish. 11 user comments | 3 Stars Technical | 7a |
6 |
Psychosomatic Addict Very similar to To Wish the Impossible, with escalating difficulties up the wall, narrow groove and headwall. 2 user comments | 2 Stars Pumpy | 7a+ |
7 |
Crack My Bitch Up An easy corner leads to a hard, exposed finish. 19 user comments | 1 Stars | 6b |
8 |
Kamikaze Moped A short-lived fingery section and a good finish. 3 user comments | 1 Stars Technical Crimpy | 7a |
9 |
The Oldest Profession Sometimes wet, but it is worth waiting for. 6 user comments | 2 Stars Technical Pumpy | 7a |
10 |
Loose Cannon The black rib has some good moves. 8 user comments | 2 Stars Crimpy | 7a |
11 |
Turned to Stone Top 50 One of Portland's finest routes. Some thin pocket moves and a great finish all on immaculate flowstone. 11 user comments | 3 Stars Technical | 6c+ |
12 |
Skids of Mark The smooth wall has difficult moves over a bulge. Finishing up the upper section of Turned to Stone gives a worthwhile 7a+. 2 user comments | 1 Stars Pumpy | 7b |
13 |
Bum Droplets An exciting route that looks like its name. The upper layback section takes a little working out. 5 user comments | 2 Stars Technical Pumpy | 6b+ |
14 |
Cut Throat Jake Quality climbing with a pocketed lower wall. 8 user comments | 2 Stars Technical | 6b |
15 |
Cute Ass A fingery headwall similar to the Battleship Edge routes. 5 user comments | 1 Stars Technical Crimpy | 7a |
16 |
No Ifs, No Butts The wall right of Cute Ass direct to a slim finishing groove and headwall. 2 user comments | 1 Stars Pumpy | 6c |
17 |
Seaman Stains Similar to the others on this section of the crag. Go careful with the clips and rock low down. 5 user comments | 1 Stars Pumpy | 6c |
18 |
Hello Sailor A good line up the shallow arete. | 1 Stars Technical Pumpy | 6c |
19 |
Master Bates A fine sustained groove leads to a swing left at the mid-height crux shelf. 6 user comments | 1 Stars Pumpy | 6b+ |
20 |
Kite Marks The wall, narrow groove and upper overhang. | 1 Stars Pumpy | 7a |
21 |
Captain Pugwash Varied with a balancy start leading to a wild finish through the roof on buckets. It is worth trying to add a bit to the finish... 1 user comment | 1 Stars Pumpy | 6c+ |
22 |
Roger the Cabin Boy Similar climbing to Captain Pugwash. The flake on the crux is suspect so treat it with care. Low in the grade. 1 user comment | 1 Stars Pumpy | 6b+ |
23 |
The Black Pig The huge leaning arete at the end of the raised ledge is split by a rest ledge. Photogenic with fine moves high up. 3 user comments | 1 Stars Technical Pumpy | 7b |
24 |
Still My Bleeding Heart The long corner flake is dirty and loose. 3 user comments | Loose | 6a+ |
