Medusa Falls Area

Adjacent Areas
< Sacred Angel Area  |  None >

Sport
Afternoon sun
12 mins
Downhill

A superb wall with stunning flowstone that is also slightly less exposed to the weather than the other Blacknor crags.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
The Lizard of Oz Top 50
Great fun. A popular introduction to the flowstone experience. The start is the crux, but save something for the strenny...
22 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
6a+
2
Snakes Alive
A very good series of moves. The fourth bolt is difficult to clip.
6 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
6b
3
Slither
A tight line. Crimps on the steep lower wall lead to long and balancy moves up a faint crack in the upper slab.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7a+
4
Medusa Falls Top 50
An incredible frozen sheet of flowstone pipes. The initial section is insecure and slippery if taken direct.
22 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
7a
5
To Wish the Impossible Top 50
A superb pitch. Sustained and delicate climbing with a strenny finish.
11 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
7a
6
Psychosomatic Addict
Very similar to To Wish the Impossible, with escalating difficulties up the wall, narrow groove and headwall.
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
7a+
7
Crack My Bitch Up
An easy corner leads to a hard, exposed finish.
19 user comments
 
1 Stars
6b
8
Kamikaze Moped
A short-lived fingery section and a good finish.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7a
9
The Oldest Profession
Sometimes wet, but it is worth waiting for.
6 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7a
10
Loose Cannon
The black rib has some good moves.
8 user comments
 
2 Stars
Crimpy
7a
11
Turned to Stone Top 50
One of Portland's finest routes. Some thin pocket moves and a great finish all on immaculate flowstone.
11 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
6c+
12
Skids of Mark
The smooth wall has difficult moves over a bulge. Finishing up the upper section of Turned to Stone gives a worthwhile 7a+.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
7b
13
Bum Droplets
An exciting route that looks like its name. The upper layback section takes a little working out.
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
6b+
14
Cut Throat Jake
Quality climbing with a pocketed lower wall.
8 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
6b
15
Cute Ass
A fingery headwall similar to the Battleship Edge routes.
5 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7a
16
No Ifs, No Butts
The wall right of Cute Ass direct to a slim finishing groove and headwall.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
6c
17
Seaman Stains
Similar to the others on this section of the crag. Go careful with the clips and rock low down.
5 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
6c
18
Hello Sailor
A good line up the shallow arete.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
6c
19
Master Bates
A fine sustained groove leads to a swing left at the mid-height crux shelf.
6 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
6b+
20
Kite Marks
The wall, narrow groove and upper overhang.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
7a
21
Captain Pugwash
Varied with a balancy start leading to a wild finish through the roof on buckets. It is worth trying to add a bit to the finish...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
6c+
22
Roger the Cabin Boy
Similar climbing to Captain Pugwash. The flake on the crux is suspect so treat it with care. Low in the grade.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
6b+
23
The Black Pig
The huge leaning arete at the end of the raised ledge is split by a rest ledge. Photogenic with fine moves high up.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7b
24
Still My Bleeding Heart
The long corner flake is dirty and loose.
3 user comments
 
Loose
6a+
  • Latest Comments

    For BLACKNOR SOUTH

    Medusa Falls
    "Overated because it looks good. Slippy rock and unbalanced after the first few m..." 27/May top50

    Pining for Glossop
    "Much preferred this to sacred angel: pleasantly sustained and interesting moves...." 01/Jul

    Love in the Mist
    "Very pleasant route that finishes all too quickly. 6a *" 02/Apr

    To Wish the Impossible
    "Super climbing, crisp holds and a bit thuggy near the top. Easier than some Batt..." 05/Feb top50

    Well Done Poppet
    "Loose belay bolts replaced." 29/Mar

    Do Ixtlan
    "A third bolt has been added to the belay: the lower horizontal staple is loose." 01/Jun

    Cute Ass
    "painful lower wall climbing on sharp unpleasant rock, great contrast in smooth u..." 05/Oct

    Lifeline
    "Agree with previous comment (though we did do it together..!!). Committing pull ..." 26/Sep

    It's My Life
    "I'd say 5 is about right - steep with lovely varied moves. Good route." 23/Aug

    Cute Ass
    "a good route if you like this kind of crunchy rock style! i think your motivated..." 07/May

    Toe the Line
    "Beautiful technical 2nd half; it could be b+." 04/May

    Seaman Stains
    "Bold second clip due to the fact that the rock is a bit crumbly. Took a flyer wh..." 21/Nov

    Snakes Alive
    "There is a new line to the right of this on hangers, I found it very hard about ..." 30/Oct

    Seaman Stains
    "Top tip. Do No Ifs No Butts first and swing across on the way down and place a l..." 26/Aug

    Master Bates
    "Reckon 7a harsh but fair for Kite Marks - got spat off at the reachy move then s..." 11/Jul

    Medusa Falls
    "a tricky start (if climbed direct) with good but slightly insecure moves leads t..." 05/Jul top50

    To Wish the Impossible
    "Excellent climbing, at lower end of the grade, possibly 6c+. Fair bit easier tha..." 30/Jun top50

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