Fear's Younger Brother Area

Adjacent Areas
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Sport
Afternoon sun
10 mins
Downhill

A great section of the cliff that is packed with flowstone and pocketed walls, giving some very technical and often sustained routes with the odd bulge and overhang thrown into the mix. Guidebook page 103.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Where's My Washboard
An overhanging groove with a tricky roof move.
5 user comments
 
1 Stars
6b+
2
Castle Anthrax
A left-hand variation to the route An Arse With a View Move left at the first break and climb up to and over the final roof.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
7a
3
An Arse With a View
A flaky, technical groove to the smooth roof on its right.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
7a
4
The Singing Bush
One of the best on this section of wall. A pumpy and technical route following a faint rib.
6 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
7a+
5
Bushwhacked
Tasty-tufa-technicalities on the black wave. A good pitch.
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
7a+
6
Chaos UK
A fine twisting groove packs in some good hard moves.
7 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7a+
7
AKA UK OK
Climb the easy wall to the bulge. Good holds gain access to the upper wall which provides a fine fingery finale. It borrows...
3 user comments
 
Crimpy
7b
8
UK Subs
A very rewarding pitch that ascends the blank wall, via some hard and sustained moves.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Technical
Pumpy
7a+
9
The Unknown Soldier
Good climbing up flowstone above the mid-height break. Anyone going to own up to it?
7 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
6b+
10
Read the Small Print
The wall and baffling upper groove is one of the more popular lines at this end of the cliff.
6 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
6b
11
Fear's Younger Brother Top 50
A Far South favourite. The crux takes a bit of working out, but the rest is steady and all on good rock.
9 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
6a
12
Ocean Drive
A superb sustained line with a stiff finish if taken direct.
14 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
6b
13
Kendo Nagasaki
Challenging climbing with some blind moves at the bulge. Finish leftwards.
7 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7a+
14
Ryme Intrinseca
A direct and fingery test-piece. Keep right at the overlap.
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7b
15
The Strobolising Scyphostoma
Steep and varied climbing. A hard move to gain the roof is followed by a pleasant groove then a taxing finish.
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
7a+
16
Kill a Gent's Tart
Take the easy flake to a hard pull to gain an unrestful groove. Swing right below the roof.
5 user comments
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
6c+
17
Rag 'n' Bone Man
A very nice climb up the wall, scoop and roof.
12 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
6b
18
Steptoe and Son
Pleasant climbing with an impressive finish. Climb the tricky initial wall to the roof. Take this head-on to finish.
6 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
6c
  • Latest Comments

    For BLACKNOR FAR SOUTH

    Wax on Wheels
    "Wonder if this has lost holds at the break? There is some rock scarring there. T..." 01/Jul

    Spare the Fern
    "Very high first clip with a tough unpleasant start; highly suggest pre-clipping ..." 31/Mar

    Master of the Rolls
    "Yes but you have to pull very hard - in my opinion not 7a! More like 7a+/b but ..." 21/Oct

    Master of the Rolls
    "Agree with the above. Used the hidden hold for the right hand, juggy horn for th..." 15/Aug

    Ryme Intrinseca
    "Very good, would be a lot more sustained without milking the rest, (which I did...." 11/Apr

    The Strobolising Scyphostoma
    "very very hard.... comparable to rhyme intrinseca for difficulty" 14/May

    Cliché Upon Cliché
    "Good, but not the best 6c on Portland. Nobody's Hero (100m to the left) for exam..." 22/Sep

    Ryme Intrinseca
    "Great route. Would be easy for the grade if the move at the bulge wasn't such a ..." 21/Sep

    Think Black
    "why yes i do believe i saw some chaps hauling it from the under-growth......dont..." 20/Sep

    Think Black
    "New bolts - and old bolts ;-) Anyone seen my clip stick?" 20/Sep

    Cliché Upon Cliché
    "quality.......the best 6c on portland? enough said" 15/Sep

    Think Black
    "re-bolted with 4 staples to a new independant lower-off, thanks to the dorset bo..." 01/Aug

    Rag 'n' Bone Man
    "took a huge lob off the bit where the thread should have been, gotta go back for..." 26/May

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