Adjacent Areas
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Sport
Afternoon sun
Downhill
10 minsWindy
A great section of the cliff that is packed with flowstone and pocketed walls, giving some very technical and often sustained routes with the odd bulge and overhang thrown into the mix. Guidebook page 103.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Where's My Washboard An overhanging groove with a tricky roof move. 5 user comments | 1 Stars | 6b+ |
2 |
Castle Anthrax A left-hand variation to the route An Arse With a View Move left at the first break and climb up to and over the final roof. 1 user comment | 1 Stars | 7a |
3 |
An Arse With a View A flaky, technical groove to the smooth roof on its right. 1 user comment | 1 Stars Technical | 7a |
4 |
The Singing Bush One of the best on this section of wall. A pumpy and technical route following a faint rib. 6 user comments | 2 Stars Pumpy | 7a+ |
5 |
Bushwhacked Tasty-tufa-technicalities on the black wave. A good pitch. 2 user comments | 2 Stars Technical | 7a+ |
6 |
Chaos UK A fine twisting groove packs in some good hard moves. 7 user comments | 2 Stars Technical Pumpy | 7a+ |
7 |
AKA UK OK Climb the easy wall to the bulge. Good holds gain access to the upper wall which provides a fine fingery finale. It borrows... 3 user comments | Crimpy | 7b |
8 |
UK Subs A very rewarding pitch that ascends the blank wall, via some hard and sustained moves. 3 user comments | 1 Stars Reachy Technical Pumpy | 7a+ |
9 |
The Unknown Soldier Good climbing up flowstone above the mid-height break. Anyone going to own up to it? 7 user comments | 2 Stars Pumpy | 6b+ |
10 |
Read the Small Print The wall and baffling upper groove is one of the more popular lines at this end of the cliff. 6 user comments | 2 Stars Technical | 6b |
11 |
Fear's Younger Brother Top 50 A Far South favourite. The crux takes a bit of working out, but the rest is steady and all on good rock. 9 user comments | 2 Stars Technical | 6a |
12 |
Ocean Drive A superb sustained line with a stiff finish if taken direct. 14 user comments | 2 Stars Pumpy | 6b |
13 |
Kendo Nagasaki Challenging climbing with some blind moves at the bulge. Finish leftwards. 7 user comments | 2 Stars Technical Pumpy | 7a+ |
14 |
Ryme Intrinseca A direct and fingery test-piece. Keep right at the overlap. 5 user comments | 2 Stars Technical Crimpy | 7b |
15 |
The Strobolising Scyphostoma Steep and varied climbing. A hard move to gain the roof is followed by a pleasant groove then a taxing finish. 4 user comments | 2 Stars Pumpy | 7a+ |
16 |
Kill a Gent's Tart Take the easy flake to a hard pull to gain an unrestful groove. Swing right below the roof. 5 user comments | 1 Stars Crimpy | 6c+ |
17 |
Rag 'n' Bone Man A very nice climb up the wall, scoop and roof. 12 user comments | 1 Stars Pumpy | 6b |
18 |
Steptoe and Son Pleasant climbing with an impressive finish. Climb the tricky initial wall to the roof. Take this head-on to finish. 6 user comments | 1 Stars Technical | 6c |