Mechanoids Area

Sport
Sun and Shade
10 mins
Downhill

The mid section of Blacknor Far South is home to a line-up of high quality grade 7s and some tough grade 6s. The rock is well featured; the left side being peppered with fossil and conglomerate whilst the right-hand side is distinguished by its dark, vertical walls of smooth flowstone.
Approach - From the car park, walk to the cliff-top path and walk right for 80m. Scramble down into a quarry, walk through a large block wall and then down a narrow gully at the far end of the quarry (rope sometimes in place). This gully emerges below the Medusa Falls Area on Blacknor South. Continue under this to eventually arrive at the wall. The old approach from the south is no longer possible.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Sparkling Bone Chamber
Intense and blind climbing with a hard crux. The upper section is much easier.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
7b
2
Reality Bites
A stopper start that needs some luck to find the correct sequence. The remainder is delightful, assuming you find the good...
10 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
6b+
3
Slumberland Direct
A worthwhile line past a stuck-on ledge to a hard groove. A variation, Slumberland, avoids the hard mid-section by moving left...
5 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
6b+
4
Nobody's Hero
A highly-rated outing up the juggy bulge and balancy upper section.
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
6c
5
Great Barrier Reef
Superb and intense moves up a short groove above the fossilised coral ledge.
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
7a+
6
Crown of Thorns
Take the thin, blind seam high on the face to a fine finish on the headwall.
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
7a+
7
Wax on Wheels
A big reach and high step above the mid-height ledge gain the beautiful rising seam and flowstone finish. Up-graded due to the...
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Technical
7a+
8
Cerebellum
A fine flowstone sheet with a couple of brain-like holds.
11 user comments
 
1 Stars
Reachy
6c+
9
Hollow Ground
The long-admired thin flake right of Cerebellum. The flake is very thin, but has been tested by some heavy climbers.
8 user comments
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
Loose
6b+
10
So Special
A testing route that is now climbed direct. Can be done by the short with a dyno.
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Reachy
7b
11
Mechanoids
Another vertical challenge taking a gritstone-like sequence up the ramp.
9 user comments
 
2 Stars
Crimpy
7a
12
Cliché Upon Cliché
A hard start and a hard finish. Move left to the lower-off.
11 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
6c
13
Senseless Thing
An reasonable pitch with a distinct crux.
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Technical
7b
14
In on the Killtaker
A very good route taking in some unlikely climbing and with a sting in the tail.
9 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7b+
15
Think Black
Climb In on the Killtaker to the break and traverse right to below a bulge and shallow black groove. Pull the bulge and crimp...
6 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7b
16
Paint a Black Picture
An almost impossible rockover move (ok for shorties). It is often wet since it is on a drainage streak.
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Strong
7c
17
Look on the Bright Side
Start up Paint a Black Picture and break out right.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Reachy
7a+
18
Amber Vibe
Climb to the second bolt on Boom-Boom Boom Box and then head left up the smooth wall. This may get a direct start up the lower...
 
1 Stars
Technical
7c+
19
Boom-Boom Boom Box
Take the lower wall past a difficult move to the midway ledge. Continue up the vertical wall above via hard moves to a steep...
 
1 Stars
Technical
7a+