Mechanoids Area

Sport
Afternoon sun
Downhill
10 mins

The mid section of Blacknor Far South is home to a line-up of high quality grade 7s and some tough grade 6s. The rock is well featured; the left side being peppered with fossil and conglomerate whilst the right-hand side is distinguished by its dark, vertical walls of smooth flowstone. Guidebook page 105.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Sparkling Bone Chamber
Intense and blind climbing with a hard crux. The upper section is much easier.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
7b
2
Reality Bites
A stopper start that needs some luck to find the correct sequence. The remainder is delightful, assuming you find the good...
10 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
6b+
3
Slumberland Direct
A worthwhile line past a stuck-on ledge to a hard groove. A variation, Slumberland, avoids the hard mid-section by moving left...
5 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
6b+
4
Nobody's Hero
A highly-rated outing up the juggy bulge and balancy upper section.
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
6c
5
Great Barrier Reef
Superb and intense moves up a short groove above the fossilised coral ledge.
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
7a+
6
Crown of Thorns
Take the thin, blind seam high on the face to a fine finish on the headwall.
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
7a+
7
Wax on Wheels
A big reach and high step above the mid-height ledge gain the beautiful rising seam and flowstone finish. Up-graded due to the...
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Technical
7a+
8
Cerebellum
A fine flowstone sheet with a couple of brain-like holds.
11 user comments
 
1 Stars
Reachy
6c+
9
Hollow Ground
The long-admired thin flake right of Cerebellum. The flake is very thin, but has been tested by some heavy climbers.
8 user comments
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
Loose
6b+
10
So Special
A testing route that is now climbed direct. Can be done by the short with a dyno.
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Reachy
7b
11
Mechanoids
Another vertical challenge taking a gritstone-like sequence up the ramp.
9 user comments
 
2 Stars
Crimpy
7a
12
Cliché Upon Cliché
A hard start and a hard finish. Move left to the lower-off.
11 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
6c
13
Senseless Thing
An reasonable pitch with a distinct crux.
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Technical
7b
14
In on the Killtaker
A very good route taking in some unlikely climbing and with a sting in the tail.
9 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7b+
15
Think Black
Climb In on the Killtaker to the break and traverse right to below a bulge and shallow black groove. Pull the bulge and crimp...
6 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7b
16
Paint a Black Picture
An almost impossible rockover move (ok for shorties). It is often wet since it is on a drainage streak.
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Strong
7c
17
Look on the Bright Side
Start up Paint a Black Picture and break out right.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Reachy
7a+
18
Amber Vibe
Climb to the second bolt on Boom-Boom Boom Box and then head left up the smooth wall. This may get a direct start up the lower...
 
1 Stars
Technical
7c+
19
Boom-Boom Boom Box
Take the lower wall past a difficult move to the midway ledge. Continue up the vertical wall above via hard moves to a steep...
 
1 Stars
Technical
7a+
  • Latest Comments

    For BLACKNOR FAR SOUTH

    Wax on Wheels
    "Wonder if this has lost holds at the break? There is some rock scarring there. T..." 01/Jul

    Spare the Fern
    "Very high first clip with a tough unpleasant start; highly suggest pre-clipping ..." 31/Mar

    Master of the Rolls
    "Yes but you have to pull very hard - in my opinion not 7a! More like 7a+/b but ..." 21/Oct

    Master of the Rolls
    "Agree with the above. Used the hidden hold for the right hand, juggy horn for th..." 15/Aug

    Ryme Intrinseca
    "Very good, would be a lot more sustained without milking the rest, (which I did...." 11/Apr

    The Strobolising Scyphostoma
    "very very hard.... comparable to rhyme intrinseca for difficulty" 14/May

    Cliché Upon Cliché
    "Good, but not the best 6c on Portland. Nobody's Hero (100m to the left) for exam..." 22/Sep

    Ryme Intrinseca
    "Great route. Would be easy for the grade if the move at the bulge wasn't such a ..." 21/Sep

    Think Black
    "why yes i do believe i saw some chaps hauling it from the under-growth......dont..." 20/Sep

    Think Black
    "New bolts - and old bolts ;-) Anyone seen my clip stick?" 20/Sep

    Cliché Upon Cliché
    "quality.......the best 6c on portland? enough said" 15/Sep

    Think Black
    "re-bolted with 4 staples to a new independant lower-off, thanks to the dorset bo..." 01/Aug

    Rag 'n' Bone Man
    "took a huge lob off the bit where the thread should have been, gotta go back for..." 26/May

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