Adjacent Areas
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Sport
Afternoon sun
Downhill
10 minsWindy
The mid section of Blacknor Far South is home to a line-up of high quality grade 7s and some tough grade 6s. The rock is well featured; the left side being peppered with fossil and conglomerate whilst the right-hand side is distinguished by its dark, vertical walls of smooth flowstone. Guidebook page 105.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Sparkling Bone Chamber Intense and blind climbing with a hard crux. The upper section is much easier. 1 user comment | 1 Stars Technical | 7b |
2 |
Reality Bites A stopper start that needs some luck to find the correct sequence. The remainder is delightful, assuming you find the good... 10 user comments | 2 Stars Technical | 6b+ |
3 |
Slumberland Direct A worthwhile line past a stuck-on ledge to a hard groove. A variation, Slumberland, avoids the hard mid-section by moving left... 5 user comments | 1 Stars Technical | 6b+ |
4 |
Nobody's Hero A highly-rated outing up the juggy bulge and balancy upper section. 4 user comments | 2 Stars Technical Pumpy | 6c |
5 |
Great Barrier Reef Superb and intense moves up a short groove above the fossilised coral ledge. 2 user comments | 2 Stars Technical | 7a+ |
6 |
Crown of Thorns Take the thin, blind seam high on the face to a fine finish on the headwall. 3 user comments | 2 Stars | 7a+ |
7 |
Wax on Wheels A big reach and high step above the mid-height ledge gain the beautiful rising seam and flowstone finish. Up-graded due to the... 3 user comments | 2 Stars Reachy Technical | 7a+ |
8 |
Cerebellum A fine flowstone sheet with a couple of brain-like holds. 11 user comments | 1 Stars Reachy | 6c+ |
9 |
Hollow Ground The long-admired thin flake right of Cerebellum. The flake is very thin, but has been tested by some heavy climbers. 8 user comments | 1 Stars Fluttery Loose | 6b+ |
10 |
So Special A testing route that is now climbed direct. Can be done by the short with a dyno. 4 user comments | 1 Stars Reachy | 7b |
11 |
Mechanoids Another vertical challenge taking a gritstone-like sequence up the ramp. 9 user comments | 2 Stars Crimpy | 7a |
12 |
Cliché Upon Cliché A hard start and a hard finish. Move left to the lower-off. 11 user comments | 1 Stars Technical | 6c |
13 |
Senseless Thing An reasonable pitch with a distinct crux. 4 user comments | 1 Stars Reachy Technical | 7b |
14 |
In on the Killtaker A very good route taking in some unlikely climbing and with a sting in the tail. 9 user comments | 2 Stars Technical Pumpy | 7b+ |
15 |
Think Black Climb In on the Killtaker to the break and traverse right to below a bulge and shallow black groove. Pull the bulge and crimp... 6 user comments | 2 Stars Technical Crimpy | 7b |
16 |
Paint a Black Picture An almost impossible rockover move (ok for shorties). It is often wet since it is on a drainage streak. | 2 Stars Reachy Strong | 7c |
17 |
Look on the Bright Side Start up Paint a Black Picture and break out right. 3 user comments | 1 Stars Reachy | 7a+ |
18 |
Amber Vibe Climb to the second bolt on Boom-Boom Boom Box and then head left up the smooth wall. This may get a direct start up the lower... | 1 Stars Technical | 7c+ |
19 |
Boom-Boom Boom Box Take the lower wall past a difficult move to the midway ledge. Continue up the vertical wall above via hard moves to a steep... | 1 Stars Technical | 7a+ |