The Wobbler Area

Adjacent Areas
< Surgeon's Saunter Area  |  Marble Wall >

Trad
Afternoon sun
25 mins
Uphill

Short, steep walls and quality cracks alternate. The area was once quarried which explains the angular nature of the rock and the piles of rubble in front. The right-hand side offers some extended problems for the boulderer/soloist and a few easier offerings for quick-ticking.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Concept of Kinky
10m. The hanging flakes are tough and protection is minimal.
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Technical
E6 6b
2
Good Clean Fun
10m. From a couple of moves up The Wobbler, stride out left to access the face and climb it by fierce pulls.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
E4 6b
3
The Iain Farrar Experience
The direct start without using side-runners.
 E5 7a
4
The Wobbler
10m. Climb the fierce left-hand crack by finger jamming, then layback the cluster of cracks rightwards, often with a quiver.
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
E1 5c
5
Gameo
10m. Trend right to climb the rounded arete.
 
Rounded
Fluttery
E2 5b
6
Avril
8m. Climb the pleasant jamming crack on good lockers.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
HS 4b
7
Mai
8m. The thin cracks.
 VS 4b
8
Mars
8m. The diagonal flake left of the groove has a tricky start.
 HVD 4a
9
February Crack
6m. Short-lived but steep moves up the main angle.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
HS 4b
10
Exaltation
8m. Fierce climbing and a good target for a hot day since it is in the shade. The original line, Saltation, finished by...
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Technical
E5 6c
11
Old Salt
10m. Climb the front arete of the buttress using the curving crack to gain a small ledge (5b for shorties). Move leftwards to...
7 user comments
 
2 Stars
Reachy
HVS 5a
12
Rimmington Place
10m. A hard finish to Old Salt up the flying right arete.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Strong
E2 5c
13
Valediction
8m. Climb this through overhangs on jams and hidden jugs. Short-lived but worthwhile.
5 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
HVS 5a
14
Monad
6m. The wall left of the chimney has a desperate start on a tiny, polished foothold. Bridging back to the opposite wall is one...
2 user comments
 
Technical
E2 6a
15
Boomerang Chimney
6m. The banana-shaped rift is often a slippery struggle.
 S 4a
16
Twin Cracks
6m. The parallel cracks just right of the chimney.
 
1 Stars
VD
17
Quiver
5m. The short crack ends in the middle of the wall, undercut for the break and wobble up the final move on rounded holds.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Rounded
HVS 5c
18
Arrow Crack
5m. The crack right of Quiver doesn’t run out halfway up the wall hence it proves to be a bit less demanding.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
VS 5a
19
Blinkers
5m. A narrow face with rounded holds.
 
Technical
Rounded
VS 5b
20
Balance
6m. The left-trending ramp is a worthwhile easier climb.
 D
21
Problem Crack
6m. The thin crack has one taxing layback/finger jam move.
 
Crimpy
VS 5b
22
Microbe
6m. Climb the thin crack with a useful pocket, passing a narrow overlap early on.
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
HVS 5c
23
Germ
6m. A short wall with a taxing finale.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
E2 6a
24
Crumbling Crack
6m. Better than appearances (and the name) might suggest!
 
Loose
HS 4b
25
Problem Corner
6m. Bridge the blank groove which bounds the wall on its right. Short and sweet.
 
1 Stars
VS 5b
26
Love Handles
3m. The wall right of the corner lacks the expected jugs!
2 user comments
 
Technical
V3 6A
27
Mr M'Quod and the Anti-rock Squad
4m. A short-lived arete.
 
Technical
HVS 5c
  • Latest Comments

    For STANAGE END

    Love Handles
    "Now that a rather stout chap has made Microbe V3, this is no longer a grade hard..." 06/May

    Orang-outang
    "Nice moves with a short crux." 25/Jul

    Surgeon's Saunter
    "Probably the most fun I've had on a route so far this year. It's just a shame th..." 11/Apr

    Richard's Sister
    "The entry into the wide upper crack is a bit awkward." 04/Oct

    Kelly's Eliminate
    "Technically straightforward after a couple of moves off the deck. No way anywhe..." 28/Sep

    Right-hand Tower
    "Monotonous climbing with baggy worn cam placements." 07/Sep

    Slap 'n' Spittle
    "Don't see how this can be E4 6A as that would make it the same grade as Calvery...." 22/Aug

    The Ariel
    "Good warm up and solo" 25/Jun

    Another Turn
    "VS? a joke surely. Yes, it is unprotected, but VD standard climbing. Severe in ..." 13/Jun

    Doctor's Saunter
    "Climbed the start of this yesterday and continued on Doctor's Chimney. Was shock..." 11/May

    Kelly's Eliminate
    "I would say this is potentially undergraded. It feels like 4b with very little ..." 20/Apr

    Kelly's Eliminate
    "Good route. The grading at HS seems fair." 29/Sep

    Right-hand Tower
    "Very enjoyable, but that runout finnish with a rounded top where I was expecting..." 22/Sep

    The Marmoset
    "V0+. Please don't give it a route grade out of tradition, it isn't a route. Th..." 15/Sep

    Jim Crow
    "good hand jam in first break, foot up, sidepull in crack stand up, all over, ver..." 13/Sep

    Love Handles
    "V3/E1 6a, and pretty full on. A brilliant problem, and at least one grade harde..." 13/Sep

    The Marmoset
    "Very easy rest of the route. But the move is at least v1." 05/Aug

    Feathered Friends
    "If your not too keen on mantel finishes, ignore RobRock and gear up the top brea..." 09/Jun

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