The Wobbler Area

Adjacent Areas
< Surgeon's Saunter  |  Big Pebble Walls >

Trad
Early morning sun
22 mins
Uphill
Windy

Short, steep walls and some decent cracks alternate. The area was once quarried, which explains the angular nature of the rock and the piles of rubble in front of the cliff. The right-hand side offers some extended problems for the boulderer/soloist and a few easier offerings for quick-ticking.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Concept of Kinky
The hanging flakes are tough and protection is minimal.
 
1 Stars
Technical
E6
2
Good Clean Fun
From a couple of moves up The Wobbler, stride out left (side-runner above) to access the face and climb it by fierce...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
E4
3
The Wobbler
Climb the well-named fierce left-hand crack by finger-jamming, then layback the cluster of cracks above, usually with a quiver.
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
E1
4
Gameo
Trend right to climb the rounded arete. Starting up the arete direct is Marathonette, E1 5b.
 E2
5
Avril
Climb the pleasant jamming crack on good lockers.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
HS
6
Mai
The thinner cracks just to the right of an easy groove. A left-hand exit is harder and a bit artificial.
 VS
7
Tupperware
Climb to a thin flake and a decent pocket then access the right trending groove to finish
 
Technical
E2
8
Mars
The diagonal flake left of the groove has a tricky start.
 
Graunchy
S
9
7% Soln
The short wall left of the angle.
 
Technical
HVS
10
February Crack
Short-lived but steep moves up the main angle.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
HS
11
Acute Amnesia
The dirty thin crack just to the right develops independence.
 
Technical
HVS
12
Exaltation
Fierce climbing and a good target for a hot day since it is in the shade. The original line, Saltation, finished by scuttling...
 
2 Stars
Technical
E5
13
Old Salt
Climb the front arete of the buttress using the curving crack to gain a small ledge (5b for shorties). Move leftwards to follow...
7 user comments
 
2 Stars
HVS
14
Rimmington Place
A taxing finish to Old Salt up the flying right arete.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Strong
E2
15
Valediction
Climb this through overhangs on jams and hidden jugs. Short-lived but quite intense and very worthwhile.
5 user comments
 
1 Stars
HVS
16
Monad
The wall left of the chimney has a desperate start on a tiny, polished hold (a jump?). Bridging back to the opposite wall is an...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
f6C+
17
Boomerang Chimney
The banana-shaped rift is often a slippery struggle.
 
Graunchy
S
18
Twin Cracks
Awkwardly up the parallel cracks just right of the chimney.
 
1 Stars
VD
19
Quiver
The short crack ends in the middle of the wall. Undercut for the break and wobble up the final move on rounded holds.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
HVS
20
Arrow Crack
The crack right of Quiver doesn't run out halfway up the wall hence it proves to be a bit less demanding.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
VS
21
Blinkers
A well-named narrow face with rounded holds.
 
Technical
VS
22
Balance
The left-trending ramp is a worthwhile easy climb.
1 user comment
 D
23
Problem Crack
The thin crack has one taxing layback/finger-jam move.
 VS
24
Microbe Left
The wall is very crimpy.
 
1 Stars
Technical
f6B
25
Microbe
Climb the thin crack with a useful pocket, passing a narrow overlap early on.
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
HVS
26
Germ
A short wall with a taxing finale.
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
f6B
27
Crumbling Crack
A bit better than appearances (and the name) might suggest!
 
Loose
HS
28
Problem Corner
Bridge the blank groove which bounds the wall on its right. Short and sweet.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
VS
29
Love Handles
The wall right of the corner is less well-endowed than you might be expecting!
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
f6A
30
Mr M'Quod and the Anti-rock Squad
The short-lived arete that bounds the wall.
 
Technical
HVS
  • Latest Comments

    For STANAGE NORTH

    Lusitania
    "Changed from HS 4a * to HS 4b *, no votes" 23/Mar

    Broken In
    "Could also not fin an 5a move, but the climbing is good." 07/Jun

    Seranata
    "A decent little route with a hard move to start. Quite sustained for its stature..." 21/Oct

    Countess Buttress
    "(soft) VS 4b**. As good as Elis' Eliminate, etc. It may be better with a belay p..." 17/Aug

    Graviton
    "VS 5b would seem about right for me. The first mantel felt the hardest and the s..." 11/Jun

    Love Handles
    "Now that a rather stout chap has made Microbe V3, this is no longer a grade hard..." 06/May

    Cave Buttress Right-hand
    "Really nice route. Really solid protection for the first part of the climb, not ..." 10/Apr

    Headbanger
    "This makes a great, but pretty hard, V3 (E1 6a) if climbed on the not-terrifying..." 10/Oct

    Anniversary Arete
    "First moves are probably 5b, maybe the move on to the top slab too. Borderline ..." 23/Sep

    Impossible Slab
    "If you can put a side runner in for the lower crux can you use the crack for eit..." 02/Sep

    Orang-outang
    "Nice moves with a short crux." 25/Jul

    Impossible Slab
    "This route, if you start left of inaccessible crack, is 'Love of my knife'.It go..." 23/Jul

    Norse Corner Climb
    "Bit of a tricky start (fell on my back after a slip low down!) that leads into a..." 13/Jun

    Fate
    "I'm 5'8 and didn't find this reachy at all. I guess you could force a blinkered ..." 10/May

    Impossible Slab
    "a little confused, i started up beautician and then on the top slab climbed a li..." 27/Apr

    High Neb Buttress Variations
    "I found the 'hidden holds' but they didn't help me much - definitely more than 5..." 24/Apr

    Surgeon's Saunter
    "Probably the most fun I've had on a route so far this year. It's just a shame th..." 11/Apr

    Central Buttress
    "Hardest VS I have ever tried!" 26/Oct

    Central Buttress
    "The topo in the latest guide shows the initial traverse being high up, at the fi..." 12/Oct

    Richard's Sister
    "The entry into the wide upper crack is a bit awkward." 04/Oct

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