Adjacent Areas
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Sport
Afternoon sun
Downhill
10 minsWindy
The tapering wall passed first on the approach has a number of excellent and popular routes, predominately in the grade 6s. The climbs are mainly wall and groove lines on some well-featured rock. Guidebook page 107.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Carlos Fandango Belay Climb the fingery lower-wall on positive, but hard-to-see holds to the break. Follow the easier, but enticing groove to finish. 6 user comments | 2 Stars Technical | 6b |
2 |
Ghetto-Blaster Master The lower wall to the midway ledge provides the crux via a couple of fingery pulls. The upper wall is easier, but excellent. | 1 Stars Technical Crimpy | 6b |
3 |
Paying It Forward A very good pitch from start to finish. The technical wall and pleasant groove culminate in a final pull onto the headwall... 7 user comments | 2 Stars Pumpy | 6a+ |
4 |
Escape from the Dwaarfee Room Varied climbing starting up the slightly left-trending line on the lower wall and passing a tufa shield just above mid-height. 20 user comments | 2 Stars Technical Pumpy | 6a |
5 |
Punter's Way A much-praised pitch, one of the wall's best. The blank-looking lower wall has a few good pockets and edges that are hard to... 5 user comments | 2 Stars Technical Pumpy | 6a+ |
6 |
Blackthorn Winter Climb the lower wall rightwards to a thin crack and climb this to the midway break. Pull up to a small ledge at the base of a... 9 user comments | 1 Stars Technical | 6c |
7 |
Mistress of the Baps Follow the wall and blind groove just to the right of Blackthorn Winter. Finish by grabbing the large lower-off ring. | 1 Stars | 6c+ |
8 |
Master of the Rolls A long, classy route with an exciting finish through the roof. 7 user comments | 2 Stars | 7a+ |
9 |
The Loneliness of the Long Distance Driller A very worthwhile climb that takes on a bouldery lower wall to a superb upper section of brilliant rock. 8 user comments | 2 Stars | 6b |
10 |
The Sponginess of the Wrong Mixture Filler Climb the awkward wall, then step rightwards to the break. Move powerfully through the overhang and finish up the testing... | 2 Stars Technical | 6b |
11 |
If You Should Go Skating The butch overhang is followed by a thin wall crack. The start has become overgrown with ivy so start up either of the adjacent... 10 user comments | 1 Stars | 6c |
12 |
Pulling Daisies The rather dodgy-looking tufa shield and wall above direct. | 1 Stars | 6a+ |
13 |
Skating on Thin Ice A good variation moving left out of Spare the Fern. | 1 Stars Pumpy | 5 |
14 |
Spare the Fern Follow the groove and rib past a flowstone boss to a lower-off. 7 user comments | 1 Stars Technical | 4+ |
15 |
Desireless The wide crack and wall. The initial bolt is high. 8 user comments | 1 Stars | 4 |
16 |
Good Lay A brief, but fine exercise up the wall and steep groove/flake. | 2 Stars | 6b |
17 |
Shoobedoobabadah The short peapod-groove provides plenty of interest. 3 user comments | Technical | 6c+ |
18 |
Blood and Chocolate A thin and technical problem up the left wall of the arete. 3 user comments | Technical | 6c |