Master of the Rolls Area

Adjacent Areas
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Sport
Sun and Shade
10 mins
Downhill

The tapering wall passed first on the approach has a number of excellent and popular routes, predominately in the grade 6s. The climbs are mainly wall and groove lines on some well-featured rock.
Approach - From the car park, walk to the cliff-top path and walk right for 80m. Scramble down into a quarry, walk through a large block wall and then down a narrow gully at the far end of the quarry (rope sometimes in place). This gully emerges below the Medusa Falls Area on Blacknor South. Continue under this to eventually arrive at the wall. The old approach from the south is no longer possible.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Carlos Fandango Belay
Climb the fingery lower-wall on positive, but hard-to-see holds to the break. Follow the easier, but enticing groove to finish.
6 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
6b
2
Ghetto-Blaster Master
The lower wall to the midway ledge provides the crux via a couple of fingery pulls. The upper wall is easier, but excellent.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
6b
3
Paying It Forward
A very good pitch from start to finish. The technical wall and pleasant groove culminate in a final pull onto the headwall...
7 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
6a+
4
Escape from the Dwaarfee Room
Varied climbing starting up the slightly left-trending line on the lower wall and passing a tufa shield just above mid-height.
20 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
6a
5
Punter's Way
A much-praised pitch, one of the wall's best. The blank-looking lower wall has a few good pockets and edges that are hard to...
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
6a+
6
Blackthorn Winter
Climb the lower wall rightwards to a thin crack and climb this to the midway break. Pull up to a small ledge at the base of a...
9 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
6c
7
Mistress of the Baps
Follow the wall and blind groove just to the right of Blackthorn Winter. Finish by grabbing the large lower-off ring.
 
1 Stars
6c+
8
Master of the Rolls
A long, classy route with an exciting finish through the roof.
7 user comments
 
2 Stars
Strong
7a+
9
The Loneliness of the Long Distance Driller
A very worthwhile climb that takes on a bouldery lower wall to a superb upper section of brilliant rock.
8 user comments
 
2 Stars
6b
10
The Sponginess of the Wrong Mixture Filler
Climb the awkward wall, then step rightwards to the break. Move powerfully through the overhang and finish up the testing...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Strong
6b
11
If You Should Go Skating
The butch overhang is followed by a thin wall crack. The start has become overgrown with ivy so start up either of the adjacent...
10 user comments
 
1 Stars
6c
12
Pulling Daisies
The rather dodgy-looking tufa shield and wall above direct.
 
1 Stars
6a+
13
Skating on Thin Ice
A good variation moving left out of Spare the Fern.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
5a
14
Spare the Fern
Follow the groove and rib past a flowstone boss to a lower-off.
9 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
4c
15
Desireless
The wide crack and wall. The initial bolt is high.
10 user comments
 
1 Stars
4a
16
Good Lay
A brief, but fine exercise up the wall and steep groove/flake.
 
2 Stars
Strong
6b
17
Shoobedoobabadah
The short peapod-groove provides plenty of interest.
3 user comments
 
Technical
6c+
18
Blood and Chocolate
A thin and technical problem up the left wall of the arete.
3 user comments
 
Technical
6c