Master of the Rolls Area

Adjacent Areas
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Sport
Afternoon sun
10 mins
Downhill

The tapering wall passed first on the approach has a number of excellent and popular routes, predominately in the grade 6s. The climbs are mainly wall and groove lines on some well-featured rock. Guidebook page 107.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Carlos Fandango Belay
Climb the fingery lower-wall on positive, but hard-to-see holds to the break. Follow the easier, but enticing groove to finish.
6 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
6b
2
Ghetto-Blaster Master
The lower wall to the midway ledge provides the crux via a couple of fingery pulls. The upper wall is easier, but excellent.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
6b
3
Paying It Forward
A very good pitch from start to finish. The technical wall and pleasant groove culminate in a final pull onto the headwall...
7 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
6a+
4
Escape from the Dwaarfee Room
Varied climbing starting up the slightly left-trending line on the lower wall and passing a tufa shield just above mid-height.
20 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
6a
5
Punter's Way
A much-praised pitch, one of the wall's best. The blank-looking lower wall has a few good pockets and edges that are hard to...
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
6a+
6
Blackthorn Winter
Climb the lower wall rightwards to a thin crack and climb this to the midway break. Pull up to a small ledge at the base of a...
9 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
6c
7
Mistress of the Baps
Follow the wall and blind groove just to the right of Blackthorn Winter. Finish by grabbing the large lower-off ring.
 
1 Stars
6c+
8
Master of the Rolls
A long, classy route with an exciting finish through the roof.
7 user comments
 
2 Stars
7a+
9
The Loneliness of the Long Distance Driller
A very worthwhile climb that takes on a bouldery lower wall to a superb upper section of brilliant rock.
8 user comments
 
2 Stars
6b
10
The Sponginess of the Wrong Mixture Filler
Climb the awkward wall, then step rightwards to the break. Move powerfully through the overhang and finish up the testing...
 
2 Stars
Technical
6b
11
If You Should Go Skating
The butch overhang is followed by a thin wall crack. The start has become overgrown with ivy so start up either of the adjacent...
10 user comments
 
1 Stars
6c
12
Pulling Daisies
The rather dodgy-looking tufa shield and wall above direct.
 
1 Stars
6a+
13
Skating on Thin Ice
A good variation moving left out of Spare the Fern.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
5a
14
Spare the Fern
Follow the groove and rib past a flowstone boss to a lower-off.
7 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
4c
15
Desireless
The wide crack and wall. The initial bolt is high.
8 user comments
 
1 Stars
4a
16
Good Lay
A brief, but fine exercise up the wall and steep groove/flake.
 
2 Stars
6b
17
Shoobedoobabadah
The short peapod-groove provides plenty of interest.
3 user comments
 
Technical
6c+
18
Blood and Chocolate
A thin and technical problem up the left wall of the arete.
3 user comments
 
Technical
6c
  • Latest Comments

    For BLACKNOR FAR SOUTH

    Wax on Wheels
    "Wonder if this has lost holds at the break? There is some rock scarring there. T..." 01/Jul

    Spare the Fern
    "Very high first clip with a tough unpleasant start; highly suggest pre-clipping ..." 31/Mar

    Master of the Rolls
    "Yes but you have to pull very hard - in my opinion not 7a! More like 7a+/b but ..." 21/Oct

    Master of the Rolls
    "Agree with the above. Used the hidden hold for the right hand, juggy horn for th..." 15/Aug

    Ryme Intrinseca
    "Very good, would be a lot more sustained without milking the rest, (which I did...." 11/Apr

    The Strobolising Scyphostoma
    "very very hard.... comparable to rhyme intrinseca for difficulty" 14/May

    Cliché Upon Cliché
    "Good, but not the best 6c on Portland. Nobody's Hero (100m to the left) for exam..." 22/Sep

    Ryme Intrinseca
    "Great route. Would be easy for the grade if the move at the bulge wasn't such a ..." 21/Sep

    Think Black
    "why yes i do believe i saw some chaps hauling it from the under-growth......dont..." 20/Sep

    Think Black
    "New bolts - and old bolts ;-) Anyone seen my clip stick?" 20/Sep

    Cliché Upon Cliché
    "quality.......the best 6c on portland? enough said" 15/Sep

    Think Black
    "re-bolted with 4 staples to a new independant lower-off, thanks to the dorset bo..." 01/Aug

    Rag 'n' Bone Man
    "took a huge lob off the bit where the thread should have been, gotta go back for..." 26/May

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