Adjacent Areas
< Far North | Captain Klutz Area >
Bird Ban 01/03-30/06 (Rts 1-5).
The first walls have some large blocky roofs and a number of excellent, long routes on good rock. This area is often less busy than the sections further to the right. Guidebook page 65.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Seattle Be the Day Some fine flowstone is the reward following on from a hard start. 4 user comments | 1 Stars Strong | 6b+ |
2 |
The Fabulous Bakery Boys A fine face of perfect flowstone. The crux is a bit bold. 2 user comments | 1 Stars Pumpy Fluttery | 6c |
3 |
Captain Lob Meets the Nipple Pincher A pleasant, open groove. Super-technical and imaginative moves on the crux. High in the grade, and a touch run-out. 6 user comments | 2 Stars Technical | 6b |
4 |
Grease Paint and Monkey Brains A long arete, well endowed with some good jugs leads to a ledge with two technical options above. The best is to use the flake... 6 user comments | 1 Stars Technical | 6a |
5 |
Indian Summer A very nice climb. The long flake and groove with a juggy finish over a roof to a lower-off 3m above. 7 user comments | 1 Stars Strong | 6a |
6 |
Blowing Chunks A slabby wall, thin crack and a roof. It involves some good climbing, but is unfortunately a touch dusty. 1 user comment | Technical | 6c |
7 |
Where's Blue Hippo The thin wall with an entertaining mid-height crux. The rock is a little on the crumbly side. 1 user comment | 1 Stars Technical Pumpy | 7a+ |
8 |
Beer and Corruption An excellent wall-climb and a good route for those looking to break in to the 7th grade. 3 user comments | 1 Stars Technical | 7a |
9 |
Henry Rollins for President Remember to break left early up the crack. | 7a+ | |
10 |
Wynona's Big Brown Beaver A poor route. Traverse left from the second bolt on Ximenesque. 1 user comment | 6c | |
11 |
Ximenesque A very thuggy roof crack not too dissimilar to its near-namesake away to the east in the Boulder Ruckle at Swanage (page 393 ). | Strong Pumpy | 6b+ |
12 |
In Dust We Trust Break right out of Ximenesque after its second bolt. 1 user comment | Pumpy Fluttery | 6c+ |