Adjacent Areas
< Victims of Fashion Area | Middle Cliff >
Sport
Afternoon sun
Downhill
10 minsWindy
An area with lots of vertical lines on some good rock, and a number of real tests of finger stamina. It is often empty when the lines to the left are crowded. Guidebook page 118.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Blood Simple The scoop and slight groove to the right of Defcon One are gained via steep moves over the low bulge. Good rock. 6 user comments | 1 Stars | 7a |
2 |
The Barton Fink The wall just to the right of the wide black streak, with desperate moves at half-height. Easier for the tall. 1 user comment | Reachy Technical | 7b |
3 |
Hipnition A hard boulder problem start is worth persevering with to access the nice upper groove. 1 user comment | 1 Stars Strong | 7a |
4 |
Master of Ape Science Like its near neighbours, this line has a bouldery start, but also hard moves on the upper wall. 2 user comments | 1 Stars Technical Strong Pumpy | 7a+ |
5 |
A Taste of Honey The line to the right of Master of Ape Science. A tough sequence for the first couple of clips leads to pleasant 5+ climbing... | 1 Stars Technical | 7a+ |
6 |
Dripping with Blood It's all over after the vicious start. Finish up the crack and flowstone. 3 user comments | Reachy Technical | 6c+ |
7 |
Maud in Memoria Once again, the hard climbing is short-lived, but worthwhile. Follow edges and flakes to a short corner. 4 user comments | 1 Stars Technical Crimpy | 6c |
8 |
On the Wall The entertaining, lichen-stained groove is often passed by, but is one of the finest on this section of the cliff. 4 user comments | 2 Stars Technical Pumpy | 7a+ |
9 |
Trance Dance The hard-won low crux passing a pocket is very bouldery. Finish up the shallow groove above. 6 user comments | 1 Stars Technical Strong | 7a |
10 |
Art For Art's Sake Climb Judge Jeffreys for the first two clips, then follow the finger ledge left to the centre of the wall. Climb this direct to... | 1 Stars Technical | 7a+ |
11 |
Judge Jeffreys Connecting the two flakes is a bit of a stopper move. From a small ledge above the flakes finish direct. 4 user comments | 3 Stars Technical Strong | 6c |
12 |
Humanoid Fun and fingery from the word go, but it is a skin-eater. 6 user comments | 2 Stars Technical Crimpy | 7a+ |
13 |
One for the Gipper Don't miss the nicely-technical and balancy moves on this line. 7 user comments | 1 Stars Technical | 6b |
14 |
President Elect A hard start to easier stuff above. High in the grade. 4 user comments | 1 Stars Technical | 6b+ |
