Humanoid Area

Adjacent Areas
< Victims of Fashion Area  |  None >

Sport
Sun and Shade
20 mins
Downhill

An area with lots of vertical lines on some good rock, and a number of real tests of finger stamina. It is often empty when the lines to the left are crowded.
Approach - Following a huge landslip in 2014 the old Battleship Edge approach is no longer possible. Instead the southern approach above the Veranda Cliff must be used. Drive through Weston to a small roundabout and turn right into Reap Lane. Park near the second traffic calming installation. Follow a wide track behind houses and go right at the crossroads. Follow the track past farm buildings to the cliff top path. At the cliff edge slightly to the left is a grassy gully. Descend this with care to a grassy terrace above the Veranda Cliff. Follow this north (right looking out) towards the distinctive and massive Battleship Block. Continue under the Back Cliff and follow a path up to the edge.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Blood Simple
The scoop and slight groove to the right of Defcon One are gained via steep moves over the low bulge. Good rock.
6 user comments
 
1 Stars
Strong
7a
2
The Barton Fink
The wall just to the right of the wide black streak, with desperate moves at half-height. Easier for the tall.
1 user comment
 
Reachy
Technical
7b
3
Hipnition
A hard boulder problem start is worth persevering with to access the nice upper groove.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Strong
7a
4
Master of Ape Science
Like its near neighbours, this line has a bouldery start, but also hard moves on the upper wall.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Strong
Pumpy
7a+
5
A Taste of Honey
The line to the right of Master of Ape Science. A tough sequence for the first couple of clips leads to pleasant 5+ climbing...
 
1 Stars
Technical
7a+
6
Dripping with Blood
It's all over after the vicious start. Finish up the crack and flowstone.
3 user comments
 
Reachy
Technical
6c+
7
Maud in Memoria
Once again, the hard climbing is short-lived, but worthwhile. Follow edges and flakes to a short corner.
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
6c
8
On the Wall
The entertaining, lichen-stained groove is often passed by, but is one of the finest on this section of the cliff.
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7a+
9
Trance Dance
The hard-won low crux passing a pocket is very bouldery. Finish up the shallow groove above.
6 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Strong
7a
10
Art For Art's Sake
Climb Judge Jeffreys for the first two clips, then follow the finger ledge left to the centre of the wall. Climb this direct to...
 
1 Stars
Technical
7a+
11
Judge Jeffreys
Connecting the two flakes is a bit of a stopper move. From a small ledge above the flakes finish direct.
4 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Strong
6c
12
Humanoid
Fun and fingery from the word go, but it is a skin-eater.
6 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7a+
13
One for the Gipper
Don't miss the nicely-technical and balancy moves on this line.
7 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
6b
14
President Elect
A hard start to easier stuff above. High in the grade.
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
6b+
15
Chappaquiddick
Climb the thin wall to the upper breaks.
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
6b
16
Coastguard Ron
A small, bouldery route with a number of possible sequences.
5 user comments
 
Technical
7a
17
April Skies
The corner groove to the right of Coastguard Ron. Care needed with some of the rock.
2 user comments
 4c
18
Pyramid
Climb the technical slab to the break. The headwall is climbed left of the bolts with a tricky move back right to the...
 6b
19
Serendipity
The arete. Start up the first two bolts of the next route.
2 user comments
 4a
20
Mr Dudley Meets Ting Tong Macadangdang
The wall and flakes on the left-hand side of the wall.
 6a
21
Flickhead Goes Boing, Boing
A good, bouldery crux with a blind reach.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
7a
22
Cruel Mistress
The hanging flake, rib and scoop.
 
1 Stars
Technical
6c+
23
Hats off to the Insane
Probably the best route here with pleasant wall climbing.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
6b+
24
Trashcan Man
Also a worthy pitch, which follows the thin flake-line.
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
6b
25
Dirty Filthy Rich
Climb the blunt rib and groove right of Trashcan Man.
 
1 Stars
6a
26
Setting the Date
An unusually-wide groove. Passing the final roof to its left reduces the grade to 6a.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Technical
6b+
27
Sealed with a Kiss
The slim groove and seam right of Setting the Date.
 
1 Stars
6a
28
Champagne Supernova
The narrow groove is short and awkward to both enter and exit.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Technical
6a
29
Dishing the Dirt
The groove line and short wall to the right of Champagne Supernova.
 
1 Stars
6a
30
Andy Wallhole
Short and sweet, and also low in the grade.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
6a