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Sport
Afternoon sun
Downhill
10 minsWindy
The central section of Battleship Edge is one of the most popular areas on Portland, with a good supply of technical face and groove pitches. This is a great place to get a lot of mileage in if the grade range is right for you. Guidebook page 117.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Bilboes Good technical climbing, although the sequence takes a bit of unlocking. Low in the grade. 10 user comments | 1 Stars Technical | 7a |
2 |
Keyboard Wall Top 50 A superb sequence of tenuous moves on flowstone ripples. 6 user comments | 3 Stars Technical Pumpy Crimpy | 7c |
3 |
Choco Loni White hot fingery climbing on tiny holds. Steel fingers and good conditions are a must. 2 user comments | 2 Stars Technical Crimpy | 7b |
4 |
Wurlitzer Jukebox A good pitch that features a hard start and a stopper finish. It gets a little close to Evening Falls in its mid reaches. 3 user comments | 1 Stars Pumpy | 7a+ |
5 |
Evening Falls A strong line and popular pitch. Move up the initial wall to the corner proper, then climb to beneath the roof. Traverse... 10 user comments | 2 Stars Pumpy | 6a+ |
6 |
Victims of Fashion Top 50 A finger-stamina test of the highest calibre. Move up the pocketed lower wall. Then, from a small finger-ledge, make some... 5 user comments | 3 Stars Technical Pumpy | 7a+ |
7 |
Barbed Wire Kisses Another strong corner-line with a hard crux sequence midway. Climb the lower wall into the base of the corner-line. Move up and... 6 user comments | 2 Stars Technical | 7a+ |
8 |
Monoculture A classic tendon-stretching testpiece. The lower wall sets the scene prior to the technical, and extremely fingery, blind moves... 6 user comments | 2 Stars Technical Pumpy Crimpy | 7c+ |
9 |
Reve d'un Corbeau The hard lower wall has a stopper move. Difficult moves going left to the base of the interesting upper groove prove to be the... 4 user comments | 1 Stars Technical | 7a |
10 |
Lazy Days and Summer Haze Top 50 A testing pitch that is rounded off by a steep and exposed finish. Move up to the right and then back left to a shallow corner... 8 user comments | 2 Stars | 6a+ |
11 |
Norfolk Coast An eliminate. Technical moves up the slab lead to a tricky finish. 1 user comment | 1 Stars Technical | 7a+ |
12 |
Pinch an Inch Pleasing and precise climbing on great rock. Move up the wall to a small corner and make some long moves to an easing at a thin... 17 user comments | 2 Stars Technical | 6a |
13 |
Inch Perfect, Inchworm An equally good experience to Pinch an Inch. Climb to positive holds in the groove. Make a series of technical moves up and... 11 user comments | 2 Stars Technical | 6b+ |
14 |
Serious Music Intricate and well-positioned climbing. Move up to a high bolt and make a powerful pull to better holds. Traverse rightwards to... 6 user comments | 1 Stars Technical | 6c+ |
15 |
Margaret on the Guillotine Surprisingly varied climbing which requires an eye for route finding. Start left of the first bolt, then move up and traverse... 7 user comments | 2 Stars Pumpy | 6a |
16 |
Gratuitous Lies Here Good, hard climbing, but unfortunately rather runout. Move up to the first bolt which is shared with the previous route. Follow... 3 user comments | Reachy Fluttery | 6c+ |
17 |
Keel Haul A good, but escapable eliminate. Climb the blunt arete via some hard pulls. 2 user comments | Technical Pumpy | 7b |
18 |
Out of Reach, Out of Mind The rounded groove is a fine climb. The pocketed groove passing - but not using - the doorknob, leads to the upper break. Make... 12 user comments | 2 Stars Technical | 6c |
19 |
No me Comas el Coco A good, varied pitch with a fingery start and, butch finish. Climb the thin groove and wall above it to the upper break. A... 3 user comments | 2 Stars Pumpy | 7a |
20 |
Come, Armageddon, Come Unusual moves on the lower wall. Layback the chunky pinch-grips, to a steep finish. 5 user comments | 1 Stars Strong | 6c+ |
21 |
Defcon One Climb a tricky initial groove to a testing stretch for the break. Swing left on the flowstone to finish. 5 user comments | 2 Stars Technical | 6c+ |
