Adjacent Areas
< Crab Party Area | Octopus Weed Area >
Sport
Morning sun
Level
15 minsTidal
Windy
This area has some of the best roof climbing on Portland. In winter a spectacular cascade pours over the lip, whilst in the summer it is a good swimming and jumping spot. Guidebook page 192.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
The Green Bearded Roof Start at a single bolt-belay. Belay at the back of the cliff-top ledge. | Reachy | 7a+ |
2 |
Supergeek The best of the routes hereabouts. Start from a single bolt-belay at the base. Belay at the back of the cliff-top ledge. | 1 Stars Reachy | 7b+ |
3 |
Pilot of the Future A very unlikely hanging roof on which shorties may need a bunk up to attain the first holds on the lip. Start from a single... | Reachy | 7b |
4 |
Zen Zero A great route for roof thugs with 15m of escalating bicep death.It needs good dry conditions. Start from a single bolt-belay... | 3 Stars Pumpy | 7c+ |
5 |
Zombie Nation Features an arm-stretching bouldery start. Block belay. | 1 Stars Reachy | 7c |
6 |
Air Hoodlum A dramatic grooved arete which needs calm seas. Gets plenty of sun into late afternoon and early evening. | 2 Stars Technical | 7b+ |
7 |
The Cult of John Craven The fierce wall left of the escape route. | 1 Stars Technical | 7b |
8 |
Escape Route 11m. If caught by tides, solo out up this. | HVS 5a | |
9 |
Osaki Dolphin An 8m roof with wild moves. Needs dry conditions. | 2 Stars Strong Pumpy | 7c+ |
10 |
Law of the Jungle S0. Short and hard. Head right over the 3m roof to emerge on the promontory ledge. | 1 Stars Strong | 7b+ |
11 |
The Swinging Nineties S1. Good fun. Reverse down the last jugs of Law of the Jungle then swing along the 8m roof to emerge on the cliff-top. Reverse... | 3 Stars Strong | 7b |
12 |
King of the Swingers S3. The biggest roof challenge on Portland. Start up Law of the Jungle then continue along the horizontal break to a no-hands... | 3 Stars Strong Pumpy | 7c+ |