Waterfall Cave Area

Adjacent Areas
< Crab Party Area  |  Octopus Weed Area >

Sport
Morning sun
15 mins
Level
Tidal

This area has some of the best roof climbing on Portland. In winter a spectacular cascade pours over the lip, whilst in the summer it is a good swimming and jumping spot.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
The Green Bearded Roof
Start at a single bolt-belay. Belay at the back of the cliff-top ledge.
 
Reachy
7a+
2
Supergeek
The best of the routes hereabouts. Start from a single bolt-belay at the base. Belay at the back of the cliff-top ledge.
 
1 Stars
Reachy
7b+
3
Pilot of the Future
A very unlikely hanging roof on which shorties may need a bunk up to attain the first holds on the lip. Start from a single...
 
Reachy
7b
4
Zen Zero
A great route for roof thugs with 15m of escalating bicep death.It needs good dry conditions. Start from a single bolt-belay...
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
7c+
5
Zombie Nation
Features an arm-stretching bouldery start. Block belay.
 
1 Stars
Reachy
7c
6
Air Hoodlum
A dramatic grooved arete which needs calm seas. Gets plenty of sun into late afternoon and early evening.
 
2 Stars
Technical
7b+
7
The Cult of John Craven
The fierce wall left of the escape route.
 
1 Stars
Technical
7b
8
Escape Route
11m. If caught by tides, solo out up this.
 HVS 5a
9
Osaki Dolphin
An 8m roof with wild moves. Needs dry conditions.
 
2 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
7c+
10
Law of the Jungle
S0. Short and hard. Head right over the 3m roof to emerge on the promontory ledge.
 
1 Stars
Strong
7b+
11
The Swinging Nineties
S1. Good fun. Reverse down the last jugs of Law of the Jungle then swing along the 8m roof to emerge on the cliff-top. Reverse...
 
3 Stars
Strong
7b
12
King of the Swingers
S3. The biggest roof challenge on Portland. Start up Law of the Jungle then continue along the horizontal break to a no-hands...
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
7c+
  • Latest Comments

    For CAVE HOLE

    Ixtlan
    "wonderful route. quite sustained but there's a huge sitting rest after the trave..." 30/Sep

    Bare Reputation
    "Of course! All subsequent ascents should follow suit." 08/Aug

    Bare Reputation
    "For archiving sake was the first ascent done naked?" 24/Jul

    Marine Boy Direct
    "This route is in the current guide, is it not? So are some of the other routes i..." 01/Jul

    Temporary Lifestyle
    "Great big chunk of rock has clearly come off the climb. Doesn't really change th..." 26/May

    Penny Lane
    "Its in my current guidebook atE1 5b." 13/Nov

    Temporary Lifestyle
    "First DWS, brilliant." 18/Aug

    Aquamarina
    "Excellent route. Very crimpy indeed." 13/Aug

    Ixtlan
    "IXTLAN!!!!!!! i found you!!! dont be put of by the high crux, but do not take li..." 10/Aug

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