Middle Cliff

Adjacent Areas
< Humanoid Area  |  None >

Sport
Afternoon sun
Downhill
10 mins

To the right of a wide crack/gully is a raised section of wall that has a selection of good, technical pitches. Guidebook page 119.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Chappaquiddick
Climb the thin wall to the upper breaks.
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
6b
2
Coastguard Ron
A small, bouldery route with a number of possible sequences.
5 user comments
 
Technical
7a
3
April Skies
The corner groove to the right of Coastguard Ron. Care needed with some of the rock.
 4+
4
Pyramid
Climb the technical slab to the break. The headwall is climbed left of the bolts with a tricky move back right to the...
 6b
5
Serendipity
The arete. Start up the first two bolts of the next route.
 4
6
Mr Dudley Meets Ting Tong Macadangdang
The wall and flakes on the left-hand side of the wall.
 6a
7
Flickhead Goes Boing, Boing
A good, bouldery crux with a blind reach.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
7a
8
Cruel Mistress
The hanging flake, rib and scoop.
 
1 Stars
Technical
6c+
9
Hats off to the Insane
Probably the best route here with pleasant wall climbing.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
6b+
10
Trashcan Man
Also a worthy pitch, which follows the thin flake-line.
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
6b
11
Dirty Filthy Rich
Climb the blunt rib and groove right of Trashcan Man.
 
1 Stars
6a
12
Setting the Date
An unusually-wide groove. Passing the final roof to its left reduces the grade to 6a.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Technical
6b+
13
Sealed with a Kiss
The slim groove and seam right of Setting the Date.
 
1 Stars
6a
14
Champagne Supernova
The narrow groove is short and awkward to both enter and exit.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Technical
6a
15
Dishing the Dirt
The groove line and short wall to the right of Champagne Supernova.
 
1 Stars
6a
16
Andy Wallhole
Short and sweet, and also low in the grade.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
6a