Adjacent Areas
< The New Cuttings - Right | Mindmeld Area >
Sport
Morning sun
Level
5 minsThe far left-hand end of The Cuttings has lots of very popular lower-grade routes that are getting very polished. The difficulties keep themselves well hidden and some of the routes have been upgraded. It is worth noting that some of the bolts are not right next to the harder moves, and there is an unhealthy number of ledges, so care must be exercised when leading here. The routes (up to Little Chef) were bolted by members of Basingstoke M.C. The lines are slightly awkward to distinguish, so pause and check before you climb. Guidebook page 232.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Eat, Stick, and Die The first short line on the wall. Move up to the second bolt and using an undercut traverse up right to a lower-off. 2 user comments | 2 | |
2 |
We're Only Placing Bolts For Nigel Climb up and move left to the second bolt to join the short traverse of Eat Stick, and Die to finish. 17 user comments | 3 | |
3 |
Cheese and Pickle A difficult and fluttery pitch. Move up onto a ledge and climb direct to a lower-off. Climbing up on the left is equally... | Fluttery | 4+ |
4 |
Parsnip Soup A testing little pitch. Climb the shallow rib and finish on some very sloping holds. | 5 | |
5 |
Corporal Punishment Move up onto a ledge. Climb the steep wall via some pockets and high friction crimps. 1 user comment | 5 | |
6 |
On Manoeuvres Very polished. Gain a ledge with difficulty and finish more easily up the wall and breaks to a lower-off. | 3 | |
7 |
Arc Angel Make very difficult moves onto a ledge at 3m. Move up and right 3 user comments | 2+ | |
8 |
Charity Work Mate Make an awkward move up onto a ledge at 3m. Climb direct past a pocket as for Arc Angel to its lower-off. 1 user comment | 3 | |
9 |
Magical Misty Tour Climb the cracks, ledges and walls above the buddleia bush. 2 user comments | 3+ | |
10 |
Bonsai Start between the two ground-level bushes. Climb to the left of the bolts all the way to the top and reach right to clip the... 6 user comments | 3+ | |
11 |
Sting in the Tail Climb direct to a good break below the final wall. Climb the wall with difficulty, right of the bolts and reach left to clip... 15 user comments | 5+ | |
12 |
Baron's Revenge Climb a short technical corner and continue to the final delicate wall. | 3+ | |
13 |
Chicken Boy Sustained climbing up the white wall on sloping holds. | 3+ | |
14 |
Tantrums and Tiaras Start up the narrow groove right of Chicken Boy and left of a shattered groove. | 3+ | |
15 |
100 Sunny Days Nice climbing to the right of the shattered groove. | 3 | |
16 |
Juggernaut Climb up and right before making some hard moves up and right again to get established in the upper break. Finish Direct. 18 user comments | 5 | |
17 |
Rock Lobster The slim groove gives a sustained and demanding pitch with a hard initial 3m. 8 user comments | 4+ | |
18 |
Amazonia A good climb. Start just right of the initial bolt and pull up into the corner. Follow the corner and flake-line to the top. 5 user comments | 1 Stars | 4+ |
19 |
The Great Hamburger Disaster An enticing line. Climb the crack-line past a small rattly hold - low in the crack - to an awkward exit below the short final... 7 user comments | 1 Stars | 4+ |
20 |
Definitely Maybe The narrow wall is best taken to the right of the bolts. 15 user comments | 1 Stars | 6a+ |
21 |
Little Chef The groove with an old peg is hard to enter. 4 user comments | 1 Stars | 5+ |