Adjacent Areas
< Modern Nightmare Area | Sunlovers Slab >
Sport
Morning sun
Level
5 minsWell-hidden, but only metres away from the main action at The Cuttings, is this excellent section of cliff. The Bower sits in front of the track that runs through The Cuttings, and is split into two sections. The Bower itself is tucked away in a secluded dell, and has gained a reputation for good lower-grade lines on sound and well-bolted rock. The second section - the so-called Bottom Deckio - is a more substantial chunk of rock that has a limited, but good selection of grade 6s. Guidebook page 243.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Whispering Gallery The first line of bolts encountered on the descent path. Climb on good holds to a final steepening that is climbed using some... | 2 | |
2 |
Queen of the New Year Climb the line of bolts just right of Whispering Gallery to a final sequence on the wall to reach the lower-off. | 2+ | |
3 |
Sun Trap Start in the corner at a block. Move up the corner - bolt on the left - and gain and climb the narrow left-facing corner to a... | 3 | |
4 |
The Bumper Fun Book Climb the corner - bolt on the right - to where it fades. Continue up the wall to a lower-off. | 1 Stars | 4 |
5 |
Tinkerbell The arete right of the corner is a brief, but excellent little climb. Move up the right-hand side of the arete - technical - to... | 1 Stars Reachy | 6a |
6 |
Far From The Madding Crowd Climb the wall, passing the right-hand side of a stuck-on block, to an overhang. Pull through on good holds, and make a couple... | 1 Stars | 5+ |
7 |
Six Finger Exercise A good, and quite stiff, line. Ascend the crack to the overhang, then pull through it with difficulty. | 1 Stars | 6b+ |
8 |
Godbeams Climb the crack. | 1 Stars | 4 |
9 |
Ladybower The grooved arete. There is a belay bolt at waist height. This is the upper section of the full version of the route Voices in... | 1 Stars | 3 |
10 |
Voices in the Bower A long line starting at the base of the wall. Climb leftwards on the left-most bolts to the edge of The Bower. It can be... | Pumpy | 3 |
11 |
Up the Junction A very good climb with a series of excellent moves in its middle section. Start up Voices in the Bower. The small,... | 1 Stars Technical | 6b |
12 |
Round the Bend Fine climbing that has a teasing crux. Start as for Up the Junction, then break right over a bulge before tackling the slim... | 1 Stars Technical | 6b |
13 |
Winter Sun A little gem. Climb up through the low bulge, and follow the open corner to the final, short wall. | 1 Stars Pumpy | 6a |
14 |
Time Out of Mind The right-hand line of the buttress has a difficult lower bulge followed by easier climbing above. The lower bulge is 6a if... | 5 | |
15 |
Voices in the Mind A girdle of the Bottom Deckio Wall. The traverse pitch is great. 1) 3. Climb Voices in the Bower to the Bower belay... | 1 Stars Pumpy | 5+ |