The Attic and The Balcony

Adjacent Areas
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Sport
Afternoon sun
13 mins
Downhill

Two small sections of cliff that provide a number of intense climbs on good rock and with a great outlook.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Unload the Fun Bags
Climb the fingery wall direct to easier moves at the break.
 
Reachy
Crimpy
6b+
2
It's all a Bunch of Tree Hugging Hippie Crap
The faint crack to the overhang and pass it on the left.
 5c
3
Jurassic Bark
Tackle the overhang direct. Very reach-dependant.
 
1 Stars
Reachy
6c+
4
High Flyer
The right-hand line needs a dynamic approach at the overhang.
 
Reachy
6b
5
Lola
The left-hand line starting on some knobbly footholds.
 
Loose
5a
6
Pretty Flamingo
A tricky start gains a crimp from where good climbing ends at a square-cut top.
 
Technical
6a+
7
A Groovy Kind of Love
The appealing groove is very hard to start.
 
Technical
6c
8
Itchycoo Park
A hard start leads to much easier ground above.
 
Technical
6c+
9
Spear of Destiny
The left-hand side of the arete provides some reachy moves.
 
Reachy
5c
10
Spear of Broccoli
The right-hand side of the arete starting from flakes. Delicate and balancy climbing.
 5c
11
Heart of the Sun
Fingery climbing on the right-hand side of the wall. There is a move left to a chert lump, then head back right to the...
 
Crimpy
6a
  • Latest Comments

    For BATTLESHIP BACK CLIFF

    Pump Hitler
    "Hard to read crux because the bolt is too high, making you assume the line goes ..." 27/May top50

    Wiggi and Mopoke's Excellent New Hilti
    "26/5/2013 Lower section is covered in dried mud. Best avoided." 28/May

    Jurassic Shift
    "Quite soft compared to (for example) Portland Heights or Modern Nightmare? Great..." 29/Apr

    The Racing Line
    "Hard crux but easier and steady climbing either side. Overall difficulty is the ..." 24/Jun

    Nihil
    "photogenic route. good climbing, maybe not as good as i had hoped but still wort..." 17/Apr

    A Dream of White Porsches
    "Its easy at the end. If you have a clipstick!" 13/Apr

    Searing Tunnel of Re-injury
    "I've given this route two brand new lower-off staples, an extra bolt below these..." 09/Feb

    The Racing Line
    "we meet again paul! yer zinc should be first its MEGA!!!!!!" 15/Oct

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