The Attic and The Balcony

Adjacent Areas
< The Back Cliff  |  The Block >

Sport
Sun and Shade
13 mins
Downhill

Two small sections of cliff that provide a number of intense climbs on good rock and with a great outlook.
Approach - Following a huge landslip in 2014 the old Battleship Edge approach is no longer possible. Instead the southern approach above the Veranda Cliff must be used. Drive through Weston to a small roundabout and turn right into Reap Lane. Park near the second traffic calming installation. Follow a wide track behind houses and go right at the crossroads. Follow the track past farm buildings to the cliff top path. At the cliff edge slightly to the left is a grassy gully. Descend this with care to a grassy terrace above the Veranda Cliff. Follow this north (right looking out) towards the distinctive and massive Battleship Block.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Unload the Fun Bags
Climb the fingery wall direct to easier moves at the break.
 
Reachy
Crimpy
6b+
2
It's all a Bunch of Tree Hugging Hippie Crap
The faint crack to the overhang and pass it on the left.
2 user comments
 5c
3
Jurassic Bark
Tackle the overhang direct. Very reach-dependant.
 
1 Stars
Reachy
6c+
4
High Flyer
The right-hand line needs a dynamic approach at the overhang.
 
Reachy
Strong
6b
5
Lola
The left-hand line starting on some knobbly footholds.
2 user comments
 
Loose
5a
6
Pretty Flamingo
A tricky start gains a crimp from where good climbing ends at a square-cut top.
 
Technical
6a+
7
A Groovy Kind of Love
The appealing groove is very hard to start.
 
Technical
6c
8
Itchycoo Park
A hard start leads to much easier ground above.
 
Technical
6c+
9
Spear of Destiny
The left-hand side of the arete provides some reachy moves.
2 user comments
 
Reachy
5c
10
Spear of Broccoli
The right-hand side of the arete starting from flakes. Delicate and balancy climbing.
2 user comments
 5c
11
Heart of the Sun
Fingery climbing on the right-hand side of the wall. There is a move left to a chert lump, then head back right to the...
 
Crimpy
6a