Adjacent Areas
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Sport
Afternoon sun
Downhill
10 minsWindy
This much-photographed wall features some brilliant climbs crossing the flint knobs and breaks that cut across the face. The climbing tends to involve technical moves on vertical rock - more sustained than cruxy. That being said, there are still some very hard moves! Many of the routes are more than 25m long, so take great care when lowering off. Guidebook page 123.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Pol Pot Had the Lot Climb up dirty rock to the headwall. | Loose | 6b |
2 |
Sex Cauldron Move left and climb the upper arete and wall on the left. 1 user comment | Reachy | 7b |
3 |
Even Better than the Beatles Good climbing in the high groove with a very blind crux. 3 user comments | 1 Stars | 7b |
4 |
Arc of a Fridge A very technical crux pulling through the mid-height bulge. 1 user comment | 1 Stars Technical Strong | 7b |
5 |
Dreams Burn Down A direct assault on the left-hand side of the massive wall, finishing up the corner. An often-overlooked pitch with a tough... 3 user comments | 2 Stars Pumpy | 7a+ |
6 |
Nihil The well-defined rib in the upper wall has good climbing and plenty of exposure. Climb the lower wall past a bulge to a rest... 3 user comments | 2 Stars Strong Pumpy | 7b |
7 |
No Man is an Island A long-established Portland favourite. Climb to the narrow roof and pass it on the right before making some fingery moves back... 18 user comments | 3 Stars Pumpy | 6c |
8 |
Always Have the Edge Another gem. Climb through the low overhangs with difficulty, then continue up the sustained wall above to a wide corner.... 9 user comments | 2 Stars | 6c |
9 |
Pump Hitler Top 50 Exciting situations combined with technical climbing. Climb up and stretch past the low roof. Continue up the sustained wall to... 6 user comments | 3 Stars Technical Pumpy | 7a+ |
10 |
Buoys Will Be Buoys Top 50 A long stamina-route that is one of the region's best grade 6 sport climbs. Move up to the overhang and negotiate it on the... 15 user comments | 3 Stars Pumpy | 6b+ |
11 |
Shape Shifter A hard upper wall. Climb easily to the mid-height ledge. Step left and climb direct up the wall via a powerful sequence to... 1 user comment | 1 Stars | 7c |
12 |
Jurassic Shift A well-positioned route. Climb easily to the mid-height ledge, as for Shape Shifter. Ascend the groove above to a steep finish. 13 user comments | 2 Stars Technical | 7a |
13 |
The Fun Factory Excellent and varied groove climbing with an almost gritstone-like mid-section. Climb poor rock until above the wide chert... 6 user comments | 2 Stars Technical Pumpy | 7b |
14 |
Rave Mission 30m. A counter-diagonal starting up Info Freako, reversing the traverse on Trance Mission and finishing up Racing Line giving... | 2 Stars Pumpy | 7b+ |
15 |
Info Freako Varied and technical moves up a thin crack in the impressive headwall. Climb the easy lower wall on poor rock to below the... 2 user comments | 2 Stars Reachy Strong Pumpy | 7b+ |
16 |
The Racing Line An excellent climb. Climb the lower wall past a flake to a shallow, left-facing groove. Make technical moves up this and then... 4 user comments | 2 Stars Technical Pumpy | 7b+ |
17 |
Trance Mission A very technical hybrid. Start up The Racing Line and make a hard traverse to gain Info Freako below its crux. Rave Mission... | 2 Stars Reachy Technical Pumpy | 7c |
18 |
Zinc Oxide Mountain Top 50 One of Portland's very best routes, ascending the white headwall via some exquisite moves. Low in the grade. Start at a... 8 user comments | 3 Stars Technical Pumpy | 7b+ |
19 |
Bending the Rules A long rising-traverse that forges a diagonal line starting up Lost Army Expedition (next page) and finishing up Jurassic... | 1 Stars Technical Pumpy | 7b+ |
