Left

Adjacent Areas
< None  |  Right >

Sport
Afternoon sun
10 mins
Downhill

This much-photographed wall features some brilliant climbs crossing the flint knobs and breaks that cut across the face. The climbing tends to involve technical moves on vertical rock - more sustained than cruxy. That being said, there are still some very hard moves! Many of the routes are more than 25m long, so take great care when lowering off. Guidebook page 123.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Pol Pot Had the Lot
Climb up dirty rock to the headwall.
 
Loose
6b
2
Sex Cauldron
Move left and climb the upper arete and wall on the left.
1 user comment
 
Reachy
7b
3
Even Better than the Beatles
Good climbing in the high groove with a very blind crux.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
7b
4
Arc of a Fridge
A very technical crux pulling through the mid-height bulge.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
Strong
7b
5
Dreams Burn Down
A direct assault on the left-hand side of the massive wall, finishing up the corner. An often-overlooked pitch with a tough...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
7a+
6
Nihil
The well-defined rib in the upper wall has good climbing and plenty of exposure. Climb the lower wall past a bulge to a rest...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
7b
7
No Man is an Island
A long-established Portland favourite. Climb to the narrow roof and pass it on the right before making some fingery moves back...
18 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
6c
8
Always Have the Edge
Another gem. Climb through the low overhangs with difficulty, then continue up the sustained wall above to a wide corner....
10 user comments
 
2 Stars
6c
9
Pump Hitler Top 50
Exciting situations combined with technical climbing. Climb up and stretch past the low roof. Continue up the sustained wall to...
7 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7a+
10
Buoys Will Be Buoys Top 50
A long stamina-route that is one of the region's best grade 6 sport climbs. Move up to the overhang and negotiate it on the...
15 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
6b+
11
Shape Shifter
A hard upper wall. Climb easily to the mid-height ledge. Step left and climb direct up the wall via a powerful sequence to...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
7c
12
Jurassic Shift
A well-positioned route. Climb easily to the mid-height ledge, as for Shape Shifter. Ascend the groove above to a steep finish.
13 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
7a
13
The Fun Factory
Excellent and varied groove climbing with an almost gritstone-like mid-section. Climb poor rock until above the wide chert...
6 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7b
14
Rave Mission
30m. A counter-diagonal starting up Info Freako, reversing the traverse on Trance Mission and finishing up Racing Line giving...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
7b+
15
Info Freako
Varied and technical moves up a thin crack in the impressive headwall. Climb the easy lower wall on poor rock to below the...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Strong
Pumpy
7b+
16
The Racing Line
An excellent climb. Climb the lower wall past a flake to a shallow, left-facing groove. Make technical moves up this and then...
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7b+
17
Trance Mission
A very technical hybrid. Start up The Racing Line and make a hard traverse to gain Info Freako below its crux. Rave Mission...
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Technical
Pumpy
7c
18
Zinc Oxide Mountain Top 50
One of Portland's very best routes, ascending the white headwall via some exquisite moves. Low in the grade. Start at a...
8 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7b+
19
Bending the Rules
A long rising-traverse that forges a diagonal line starting up Lost Army Expedition (next page) and finishing up Jurassic...
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7b+
  • Latest Comments

    For BATTLESHIP BACK CLIFF

    Pump Hitler
    "Hard to read crux because the bolt is too high, making you assume the line goes ..." 27/May top50

    Wiggi and Mopoke's Excellent New Hilti
    "26/5/2013 Lower section is covered in dried mud. Best avoided." 28/May

    Jurassic Shift
    "Quite soft compared to (for example) Portland Heights or Modern Nightmare? Great..." 29/Apr

    The Racing Line
    "Hard crux but easier and steady climbing either side. Overall difficulty is the ..." 24/Jun

    Nihil
    "photogenic route. good climbing, maybe not as good as i had hoped but still wort..." 17/Apr

    A Dream of White Porsches
    "Its easy at the end. If you have a clipstick!" 13/Apr

    Searing Tunnel of Re-injury
    "I've given this route two brand new lower-off staples, an extra bolt below these..." 09/Feb

    The Racing Line
    "we meet again paul! yer zinc should be first its MEGA!!!!!!" 15/Oct

    The Racing Line
    "I shall have a play once Z.O.M has been successfully despatched..." 14/Oct

    Pump Hitler
    "Superb climbing but seemed a lot harder than say Rhyme Intrinseca and pretty sca..." 21/Sep top50

    Dreams Burn Down
    "The clip in the middle of the crux is a bit annoying. Good moves though - quite ..." 02/Aug

    The Racing Line
    "Another good route on this wall! After a quick look today im keen for the point!..." 01/Aug

    Jurassic Shift
    "New route "Shape Shifter" feels solid 7b+ to me" 29/Jun

    Search for comments