The Veranda

Adjacent Areas
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Sport
Sun and Shade
12 mins
Downhill

The Veranda is one of the wave of smaller crags that are now being developed all over Portland. Many of these smaller venues are remarkably close to some of the more popular areas and cater for climbers looking for routes in the lower-to-mid grades. The rock is often good and, although the routes have taken some unearthing, the lines will clean up quickly as the cliff becomes more popular. The Veranda has a great location with an expansive grass base.
Approach - Following a huge landslip in 2014 the old Battleship Edge approach is no longer possible. Instead the southern approach above the Veranda Cliff must be used. Drive through Weston to a small roundabout and turn right into Reap Lane. Park near the second traffic calming installation. Follow a wide track behind houses and go right at the crossroads. Follow the track past farm buildings to the cliff top path. At the cliff edge slightly to the left is a grassy gully. Descend this with care to a grassy terrace above the Veranda Cliff. Follow this north (right looking out) towards the distinctive and massive Battleship Block.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Dr. Sole and Mr. Sole
The left-hand route of the crag finishes with a delicate layaway up its top groove.
 3
2
Never Lead a Numb Existence
Climb the wall to finish up the top flake of Phil's Route.
2 user comments
 4a
3
Phil's Route
Climb the crack, trending leftwards before making some big moves up the flake above to finish.
2 user comments
 4a
4
Days of Heaven
Pleasant climbing up the wall.
2 user comments
 4c
5
Love on the Rocks ;)
Straight up over the grey band to a scoop.
2 user comments
 
Technical
5a
6
Absent Friends, Here's to Them
Climb the wall trending right at the grey band of rock. A hidden pocket may help to access the ledge above.
2 user comments
 5c
7
Limestone Cowboy
Follows the crack-line. Named after a local entrepreneur.
2 user comments
 4c
8
One Flew Out of the Cuckoo's Nest
Technical moves up the slight groove.
2 user comments
 
Technical
5c
9
When You Were Little You Dreamed You Were Big
Climb the brown flowstone stain between One Flew Out of the Cuckoo's Nest and Hanging Out with Halo Jones. The finishing hold...
 
Strong
6b+
10
Hanging Out with Halo Jones
Good moves on the lower wall lead to a surprisingly tricky groove.
 
Technical
6a
11
I Get High With A Little Help From My Friends
Climb the wall from the ledge. The finish may be awkward for the short. Care needed with the rock.
2 user comments
 
Technical
5a
12
Cat Juggling
Climb from the right hand side of the ledge. The finish is height-dependant and maybe 6a for the short.
2 user comments
 4c