Godnor South and North

Adjacent Areas
< None  |  Godnor Far North >

Sport
Sun and Shade
15 mins
Level
Tidal

The adjoining sections of Godnor South and North are an isolated section of cliff which has been developed for sport climbing, and now provides a number of good pitches on sound rock. Although tidal, the climbs are worth venturing to and can be easily accessed from Godnor Far North. The area is unlikely to be very busy, and is a charming location dominated by a large sea-arch. The cliff has potential for more sport climbs.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Portland Exclusion Zone
Climb the steep corner and wall to a niche at 3m - no bolts - and continue via a flake to blocks and a single-bolt lower-off.
 6c
2
Leonardo
Climb the steep crack and groove before a balancy move rightwards around the arete joins the wall of the next route. Shared...
 6a+
3
Mona Lisa
A tricky start leads to pleasant wall climbing.
2 user comments
 5c
4
Whitestones
Two huge white pebbles mark the start of the wall. A stiff start leads to nice slabby climbing. It is possible to top-out on...
 3+
5
The Good Life
The well-positioned crack and left arete of the small bay south of the arch. High in the grade.
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
5c
6
Enter Shikari
Starts up the hanging flake immediately south of the arch.
 6c
7
Short, but Perfectly Formed
A short, but difficult pitch that has a blind move through the bulge at mid-height.
 
1 Stars
6a
8
Big Slab Variant
A short lived, but worthwhile little pitch in an interesting location. From a small ledge, swing right on good holds and get...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
4c
9
Unnamed
A longish line that climbs the steep wall right of Big Slab Variant and finishes with a pull up on the jutting block.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
6a+
10
Loving the Moment
Climbs the grooves and cracks right of the jutting block of Unnamed.
 6a
11
Euphemism
Start from the centre of the tank block. Climb the groove direct with a hard move to finish.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
6b
12
Prisoners of Gravity
Start from the boulder beach below the tank-shaped block. Follow staples up to a big move onto the jutting prow.
 
1 Stars
6b
13
Island in the Sun
The slab to the right of Prisoners of Gravity. Start up a tricky little groove to gain an easy slab, move up and finish on...
 
1 Stars
6a
14
Private World
Start about 30m along the tidal section of the cliff and follow a diagonal line leftwards.
 6a
15
Stress Test
Start just right of Private World and climb steeply past overlaps.
 6a