Marble Wall

Adjacent Areas
< Lonely Crag  |  Cleft Buttress >

Trad
Afternoon sun
25 mins
Uphill

A place where the quarrymen showed what great craftsmen they were, leaving us a fine set of routes. Green in the winter but superb for the rest of the year, perhaps the most surprising thing about Marble Wall is, that despite the quality, the place is rarely busy.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Bifurcated Head Plate Max
The arete on the far left behind the blocks. Worth seeking out.
 VS 4c
2
Spock Out
The central cracks in the wall.
 VS 5a
3
Green Crack
The angular groove is usually as green as expected.
 HVD 4a
4
Marble Tower Flake
Reach the good ledge on the arete from the left (a jump or a move of 4c) then traverse left finish up the tall flake (VDiff).
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
S 4c
5
Marble Arete
Start as for the previous route and follow the arete throughout. A little bold but with good moves and situations.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
HS 4c
6
Sceptic
From a block, step out right and climb the unprotected wall on flat holds to a spectacular finale over the juggy roof.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
HVS 5b
7
The Lamia
A superb girdle, the best of several on the cliff. 1) 5b, 12m. From Sceptic swing along the break to Nectar. Continue to...
3 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
E3 5c
8
Terrazza Crack
The superb straight crack is a classic product of the Rock and Ice years. Well-protected and good honest hard work.
4 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
HVS 5a
9
Harvest
The short brutal roof crack has a good jam at the lip but above that it all gets very flared. One E-point per metre is good...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
Strong
Graunchy
E4 6b
10
Nectar
A blank corner and desperate roof crack give a 70s classic. 1) 6b. Hard bridging moves (loads of small wires) lead up the...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Technical
Strong
E4 6b
11
Spinach Slab
The none-slab above the initial roof on Orang-outang.
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Crimpy
E6 6c
12
Orang-outang
Another great route and low in the grade which is always nice. Climb a small corner to a narrow stepped-overhang. Layback onto...
6 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
E2 5c
13
Meisner's Link-up
This one has no independent climbing but is a great pitch for bringing on the pump. From Orang-outang link into Lamia.
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
E3 5c
14
Mother of Pearl
The left-hand start to Marbellous requires a desperate dyno (V9 7C) then the crux of the regular route. An awesome effort.
 
3 Stars
Reachy
Technical
E8 7a
15
Marbellous
One of the last Last Great Problems. Start up the ramp then place small cams in the horizontal slot out to the left. The upper...
 
3 Stars
Technical
E8 7a
16
Goosey Goosey Gander
An action-packed pitch follows the thin crack splitting the bulges, it is often green. Protection is good but hard to place...
3 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
E5 6a
17
Don's Delight
A short slab is climbed rightwards to where tricky balance moves gain a shallow groove and easier climbing. Unprotected.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E1 5b
18
Short 'n' Gritty
The short gritty green groove must have been done in the past.
 
Graunchy
HS 4b
19
Ledges
The ledgy face right then left to a tricky final Mantel. No gear.
 
Rounded
Fluttery
VS 4b
20
Hidden Delights
Climb the slab just left of the chimney trending right to the base of a groove. Stretch up this to a break (tiny cams - hard to...
 
1 Stars
E2 5c
21
Back Door
Bridge the wide cleft to a tricky exit round a capstone.
 
Fluttery
Graunchy
VS 4c
22
The Reach Card
Bridge the gloomy cleft on the right of the rift to the top of the block, stretch up the wall on the left (very hard for the...
 
Reachy
S 4b
  • Latest Comments

    For STANAGE NORTH

    Broken In
    "Could also not fin an 5a move, but the climbing is good." 07/Jun

    Seranata
    "A decent little route with a hard move to start. Quite sustained for its stature..." 21/Oct

    Countess Buttress
    "(soft) VS 4b**. As good as Elis' Eliminate, etc. It may be better with a belay p..." 17/Aug

    Graviton
    "VS 5b would seem about right for me. The first mantel felt the hardest and the s..." 11/Jun

    Love Handles
    "Now that a rather stout chap has made Microbe V3, this is no longer a grade hard..." 06/May

    Cave Buttress Right-hand
    "Really nice route. Really solid protection for the first part of the climb, not ..." 10/Apr

    Headbanger
    "This makes a great, but pretty hard, V3 (E1 6a) if climbed on the not-terrifying..." 10/Oct

    Anniversary Arete
    "First moves are probably 5b, maybe the move on to the top slab too. Borderline ..." 23/Sep

    Impossible Slab
    "If you can put a side runner in for the lower crux can you use the crack for eit..." 02/Sep

    Orang-outang
    "Nice moves with a short crux." 25/Jul

    Impossible Slab
    "This route, if you start left of inaccessible crack, is 'Love of my knife'.It go..." 23/Jul

    Norse Corner Climb
    "Bit of a tricky start (fell on my back after a slip low down!) that leads into a..." 13/Jun

    Fate
    "I'm 5'8 and didn't find this reachy at all. I guess you could force a blinkered ..." 10/May

    Impossible Slab
    "a little confused, i started up beautician and then on the top slab climbed a li..." 27/Apr

    High Neb Buttress Variations
    "I found the 'hidden holds' but they didn't help me much - definitely more than 5..." 24/Apr

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