Marble Wall

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill
25 mins

A place where the quarrymen showed what great craftsmen they were, leaving us a fine set of routes. Green in the winter but superb for the rest of the year, perhaps the most surprising thing about Marble Wall is, that despite the quality, the place is rarely busy. Guidebook page 108.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Marble Tower Flake
12m. Reach the good ledge on the arete from the left (a jump or move of 4c) then traverse left to finish up the tall flake...
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
S 4c
2
Marble Arete
10m. Start as for the previous route and follow the arete throughout. A little bold but with good moves and situations.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
HS 4c
3
Sceptic
12m. From a block, move out right and climb the unprotected wall on flat holds to a spectacular finale over the juggy roof.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
HVS 5b
4
The Lamia
A superb girdle, the best of several on the cliff. 1) 5b, 12m. From Sceptic swing along the break to Nectar. Continue to a...
3 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
E3 5c
5
Terrazza Crack
12m. The superb straight crack is a classic product of the Rock and Ice years. Well-protected and honest hard work.
4 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
HVS 5a
6
Harvest
4m. The short but brutal roof crack has a good jam at the lip but above that it all gets very flared.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
Strong
Graunchy
E4 6b
7
Nectar
A blank corner and desperate roof crack give a 70s classic only spoilt by the fact that escape is easy after the first...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Technical
Strong
E4 6b
8
Orang-outang
12m. Yet another great route and low in the grade. Climb a small corner to a narrow stepped overhang. Layback onto the front...
6 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
E2 5c
9
Mother of Pearl
12m. The left-hand start to Marbellous requires a desperate dyno (V9) then the crux of the regular route - awesome.
 
3 Stars
Reachy
Technical
E8 7a
10
Marbellous
12m. A last great problem. Start up the ramp left, move left then place small Friends in the horizontal slot out to the left....
 
3 Stars
Technical
E8 7a
11
Goosey Goosey Gander
12m. A short action-packed pitch follows the thin crack splitting the bulges, it is often green. Protection is good but hard to...
3 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
E5 6a
12
Don's Delight
8m. A short slab is climbed rightwards to where tricky moves gain a shallow groove and easier climbing. Unprotected.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E1 5b
13
Hideous Hidare
6m. Climb the rib of the block on slopers then step right and mantelshelf back left with considerable difficulty. One to tease.
 
Technical
Rounded
V5 6b
14
Left-hand Tower
16m. The awkward crack on the left of the wall leads to the tip of the block on the left. Step back onto the cliff and finish...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Graunchy
VS 4c
15
Turtle Power
14m. The fierce centre of the fine concave wall, with RP protection for the crux moves to the break. Above this another hard...
1 user comment
 
Technical
Crimpy
E6 6c
16
Slap 'n' Spittle
14m. The right arete of the concave wall is tackled on its left-hand side. Was a soft touch at E4 but don't be fooled by the...
8 user comments
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E3 6a
17
Pacemaker
16m. Bridge up the widening chimney until forced to hop on to the right wall, just above the crux of Vena Cave-in.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
HVS 5b
18
Vena Cave-in
16m. A trip up the right-hand wall of the cleft with good protection from big Friends, the closeness of the opposite wall...
7 user comments
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Rounded
E3 5c
19
Right-hand Tower
16m. A well-rounded classic that used to be a stinker at VS. Climb a thin crack left of the arete and head straight up to the...
8 user comments
 
3 Stars
Rounded
HVS 5a
20
Wild and Woolly
16m. From the collapsing wall, move left to good holds in the break. Climb straight up the wall, keeping just right of the...
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Rounded
E1 5b
21
Tempskya
14m. Start from the remains of the wall and climb directly up the bulging face on spaced and rounded holds to a short crack....
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Rounded
E3 5c
22
First Sister
12m. The left-hand of the continuous cracks. Climb the thin lower section to good jams in the deeper upper section, then up...
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
VS 4c
23
Second Sister
10m. The continuous thin crack is deceptive.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
VS 4c
24
Richard's Sister
10m. The widening crack in the right-hand side of the wall.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
HS 4b
  • Latest Comments

    For STANAGE END

    Love Handles
    "Now that a rather stout chap has made Microbe V3, this is no longer a grade hard..." 06/May

    Orang-outang
    "Nice moves with a short crux." 25/Jul

    Surgeon's Saunter
    "Probably the most fun I've had on a route so far this year. It's just a shame th..." 11/Apr

    Richard's Sister
    "The entry into the wide upper crack is a bit awkward." 04/Oct

    Kelly's Eliminate
    "Technically straightforward after a couple of moves off the deck. No way anywhe..." 28/Sep

    Right-hand Tower
    "Monotonous climbing with baggy worn cam placements." 07/Sep

    Slap 'n' Spittle
    "Don't see how this can be E4 6A as that would make it the same grade as Calvery...." 22/Aug

    The Ariel
    "Good warm up and solo" 25/Jun

    Another Turn
    "VS? a joke surely. Yes, it is unprotected, but VD standard climbing. Severe in ..." 13/Jun

    Doctor's Saunter
    "Climbed the start of this yesterday and continued on Doctor's Chimney. Was shock..." 11/May

    Kelly's Eliminate
    "I would say this is potentially undergraded. It feels like 4b with very little ..." 20/Apr

    Kelly's Eliminate
    "Good route. The grading at HS seems fair." 29/Sep

    Right-hand Tower
    "Very enjoyable, but that runout finnish with a rounded top where I was expecting..." 22/Sep

    The Marmoset
    "V0+. Please don't give it a route grade out of tradition, it isn't a route. Th..." 15/Sep

    Jim Crow
    "good hand jam in first break, foot up, sidepull in crack stand up, all over, ver..." 13/Sep

    Love Handles
    "V3/E1 6a, and pretty full on. A brilliant problem, and at least one grade harde..." 13/Sep

    The Marmoset
    "Very easy rest of the route. But the move is at least v1." 05/Aug

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