Adjacent Areas
< The Wobbler Area | Crow Chin >
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill
25 minsWindy
A place where the quarrymen showed what great craftsmen they were, leaving us a fine set of routes. Green in the winter but superb for the rest of the year, perhaps the most surprising thing about Marble Wall is, that despite the quality, the place is rarely busy. Guidebook page 108.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Marble Tower Flake 12m. Reach the good ledge on the arete from the left (a jump or move of 4c) then traverse left to finish up the tall flake... 4 user comments | 1 Stars | S 4c |
2 |
Marble Arete 10m. Start as for the previous route and follow the arete throughout. A little bold but with good moves and situations. 1 user comment | 2 Stars | HS 4c |
3 |
Sceptic 12m. From a block, move out right and climb the unprotected wall on flat holds to a spectacular finale over the juggy roof. 3 user comments | 1 Stars Fluttery | HVS 5b |
4 |
The Lamia A superb girdle, the best of several on the cliff. 1) 5b, 12m. From Sceptic swing along the break to Nectar. Continue to a... 3 user comments | 3 Stars Pumpy | E3 5c |
5 |
Terrazza Crack 12m. The superb straight crack is a classic product of the Rock and Ice years. Well-protected and honest hard work. 4 user comments | 3 Stars Pumpy | HVS 5a |
6 |
Harvest 4m. The short but brutal roof crack has a good jam at the lip but above that it all gets very flared. 1 user comment | 2 Stars Technical Strong Graunchy | E4 6b |
7 |
Nectar A blank corner and desperate roof crack give a 70s classic only spoilt by the fact that escape is easy after the first... 1 user comment | 3 Stars Technical Strong | E4 6b |
8 |
Orang-outang 12m. Yet another great route and low in the grade. Climb a small corner to a narrow stepped overhang. Layback onto the front... 6 user comments | 3 Stars Pumpy | E2 5c |
9 |
Mother of Pearl 12m. The left-hand start to Marbellous requires a desperate dyno (V9) then the crux of the regular route - awesome. | 3 Stars Reachy Technical | E8 7a |
10 |
Marbellous 12m. A last great problem. Start up the ramp left, move left then place small Friends in the horizontal slot out to the left.... | 3 Stars Technical | E8 7a |
11 |
Goosey Goosey Gander 12m. A short action-packed pitch follows the thin crack splitting the bulges, it is often green. Protection is good but hard to... 3 user comments | 3 Stars Pumpy | E5 6a |
12 |
Don's Delight 8m. A short slab is climbed rightwards to where tricky moves gain a shallow groove and easier climbing. Unprotected. 3 user comments | 1 Stars Fluttery | E1 5b |
13 |
Hideous Hidare 6m. Climb the rib of the block on slopers then step right and mantelshelf back left with considerable difficulty. One to tease. | Technical Rounded | V5 6b |
14 |
Left-hand Tower 16m. The awkward crack on the left of the wall leads to the tip of the block on the left. Step back onto the cliff and finish... 2 user comments | 1 Stars Graunchy | VS 4c |
15 |
Turtle Power 14m. The fierce centre of the fine concave wall, with RP protection for the crux moves to the break. Above this another hard... 1 user comment | Technical Crimpy | E6 6c |
16 |
Slap 'n' Spittle 14m. The right arete of the concave wall is tackled on its left-hand side. Was a soft touch at E4 but don't be fooled by the... 8 user comments | 1 Stars Fluttery | E3 6a |
17 |
Pacemaker 16m. Bridge up the widening chimney until forced to hop on to the right wall, just above the crux of Vena Cave-in. 1 user comment | 1 Stars | HVS 5b |
18 |
Vena Cave-in 16m. A trip up the right-hand wall of the cleft with good protection from big Friends, the closeness of the opposite wall... 7 user comments | 1 Stars Reachy Rounded | E3 5c |
19 |
Right-hand Tower 16m. A well-rounded classic that used to be a stinker at VS. Climb a thin crack left of the arete and head straight up to the... 8 user comments | 3 Stars Rounded | HVS 5a |
20 |
Wild and Woolly 16m. From the collapsing wall, move left to good holds in the break. Climb straight up the wall, keeping just right of the... 4 user comments | 2 Stars Rounded | E1 5b |
21 |
Tempskya 14m. Start from the remains of the wall and climb directly up the bulging face on spaced and rounded holds to a short crack.... 4 user comments | 1 Stars Rounded | E3 5c |
22 |
First Sister 12m. The left-hand of the continuous cracks. Climb the thin lower section to good jams in the deeper upper section, then up... 3 user comments | 1 Stars | VS 4c |
23 |
Second Sister 10m. The continuous thin crack is deceptive. 1 user comment | 1 Stars | VS 4c |
24 |
Richard's Sister 10m. The widening crack in the right-hand side of the wall. 1 user comment | 1 Stars | HS 4b |