Unsung Area

Adjacent Areas
< So Hardcore Area  |  Acid Jazz Area >

Sport
Sun and Shade
10 mins
Downhill

A friendly bay with some short and intense test-pieces on high quality rock. It is situated high above the sea and is reasonably sheltered, with a nice grassy belay area.
Approach - Drive through Weston and, at a roundabout, turn right into Reap Lane and park after the first traffic-calming installation. From here go past the second traffic-calming installation, and pick up a footpath/track on the right (opposite Rip Croft) that heads towards the huge Southwell Business Park complex. At the massive fence, turn right and follow it to the coast path. From the coast path, drop down a path that cuts back right and then left to the small walls. Walk 5m on from the So Hardcore Area.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Updraft
Climb the crack/groove.
2 user comments
 5a
2
The Gods Are Angry
The groove left of the arete.
2 user comments
 4c
3
Summer Lightning
The slabby arete. Climb direct from the lowest point.
 
Technical
6b+
4
Here Comes The Rain Again
Follow a groove delicately leftwards. Harder than it looks.
2 user comments
 5c
5
Captian's Log
The blunt arete taken direct - short and bouldery.
 6b+
6
Voracious Animal of the Weasel Family
The short crack.
 3
7
Heart Stoppingly Brutal
The ?-shaped flake-crack.
2 user comments
 4c
8
RP Screamers
At the start, clip the first bolt of Alpenglow. Also use the Alpenglow lower-off.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
7a
9
Alpenglow
The fading groove is super-sustained and very good.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
7a+
10
Topsy Turvy Land
There are some amazing mono holds on this route for which small fingers help.
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7b
11
Weakest to the Wall
The superb, right-trending pocketed sheet is hard to flash.
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
7b
12
The Magnificent 7
A leftwards link from the second bolt on Weakest to the Wall to the third bolt on Topsy Turvy Land, via a series of crimps and...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7b+
13
Compromise
Use the same bolts as Resisting Mutiny, but climb to the left.
 
Reachy
Crimpy
7b+
14
Resisting Mutiny
A crimp-nasty sequence, directly above the shelf on The Right Mix, staying exactly on the bolt line. An eliminate.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Strong
Crimpy
7c+
15
The Right Mix
Well worth seeking out for the interesting geology. There is also a direct start, up the wall right of the arete, at about 7a.
7 user comments
 
2 Stars
6b
16
Never Lose that Feeling
A technical delight with a low crux that stumps many.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
6b
17
Sing Something Simple
The wall with a particularly hard move leaving a big ledge low down. Awkward to keep out of Unsung.
 
Technical
6c+
18
Unsung
A short, but action-packed line.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
6b
19
Come In Alone, Go Out Alone
A bouldery start, followed by more hard climbing.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
6b
20
No Soft Option
A very fierce crux, followed by an easier run-out section.
2 user comments
 
Reachy
Technical
Strong
7b
21
Dial-a-Cliché
This attractive shallow groove is a touch bold, and has seen some nasty falls.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
6c+
22
The Web
Move up to and follow the shallow groove.
 
Technical
6b
23
Sgt. Ford's Roving Truncheon
25m. A two pitch traverse starting up Oscourt, belaying above The Right Mix, and then continuing to the belay on RP Screamers....
 7a
24
Can't Stop the Bosch
The short line on the right side of the bay.
 
Crimpy
6b+