Unknown Ledge

Adjacent Areas
< None  |  Flake Ledge >

Trad
Sun and Shade
25 mins
Up and Down
Abseil

Unknown Ledge is a little-visited section of Swanage. The climbs are steep, strenuous and single pitch. Those that top-out finish at a clean, but narrow ledge which requires care to set up a safe belay.
Tides - Non-tidal but keep away in rough seas.
Approach - As for The Promenade (p.353), then walk back east to cross to Unknown Ledge and pass behind the huge detached pillar to reach the first routes. Alternatively, an approach from Flake Ledge via a sea-level traverse (S) can be made (in calm seas only).

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Jesus and Mary Chain
Start at a hole. Follow a thin crack up onto a wall and gain a block up on the right. From the block, climb rightwards to a...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
E3
2
Fuel My Fire
An incredibly good power-endurance route with great moves and rock. The first couple of bolts have been chopped, so a clipstick...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Strong
8a+
3
The God Slot
A challenging pitch worth searching out. Start at the east-facing wall that leads up towards The Slot. Climb the wall 3m right...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
HVS
4
Damson
A fine, remote lead up the east wall above the small zawn that separates Unknown Ledge from Flake Ledge. Start at the far west...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
HVS
5
The Coral Prison
Some fine rock and a stunning setting, although the climbing is bold to start with. There has been a small rockfall but the...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
VS
6
Hell's Teeth
A good honest pitch with a tough initial overhang. Start 3m to the right of the far west limit of Flake Ledge. Move up to the...
 
1 Stars
Strong
HVS
7
Moonstone
Sustained with good protection. Start right of Hell's Teeth and climb the long crackline up the leaning buttress to the top and...
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
E1