Adjacent Areas
< Mojo-Pin Area | Amphitheatre Roofs >
Sport
Lots of sun!
Up and Down
15 minsAbseil
Tidal
Windy
Restricted Access
A quiet section of cliff with a number of worthwhile routes on reasonable rock. There are some easier trad lines to the west, along with two big traverses that end in the restricted MOD area. These are not described. Guidebook page 259.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Too Driven The arete immediately right of the descent. Good climbing, but escapable. | HS | |
2 |
Pussy Galore Start just right of the descent route, in a right-facing corner that forms the left-hand side of a bay. Climb the corner,... | 1 Stars | VS 4c |
3 |
Bad to the Bone Start at a bolt-belay and make some reachy moves before powering up for some small holds at the lip. | 1 Stars Reachy Strong | 7b+ |
4 |
Il Pirata The central line has lost holds (formerly 7a+). Cool moves and a definite crux at the roof. 1 user comment | 2 Stars Strong | 7c |
5 |
Jurrasic Coast Pimps A very good pitch. Climb thin flakes and a slab just right of a corner to the roof. Follow jugs out to the lip of the roof and... | 2 Stars | E1 5b |
6 |
Svengali Tackle the roof to the right of Jurrasic Coast Pimps via a pancake feature. | 1 Stars Technical | E3 6a |
7 |
Bolt Free Climb easily to the prominent weakness in the overhang and climb steeply over it to a small niche. Finish up the wall above. | 1 Stars | VS 4c |
8 |
Carbon Footprint The steep left-facing corner and wide crack above the break is a struggle. | HVS 5b | |
9 |
The Gift A well-positioned pitch with good climbing. Follow the groove right of the arete to the roof. Move left to a steep crack and... | 2 Stars Technical | HVS 5b |
10 |
Dry Your Eyes Mate This is the right-hand line of the two that has some long reaches and sharp pockets. The left-hand line remains a project. 1 user comment | 1 Stars Reachy | 7c+ |
11 |
Jay Kay Follow the left-facing corner until a swing right gains a difficult wall that ends at a big overhang. Traverse left under the... | 1 Stars Pumpy | HVS 4c |
