Il Pirata Area

Adjacent Areas
< Mojo-Pin Area  |  Amphitheatre Roofs >

Sport
Lots of sun!
15 mins
Up and Down
Abseil
Tidal
Restricted Access

A quiet section of cliff with a number of worthwhile routes on reasonable rock. There are some easier trad lines to the west, along with two big traverses that end in the restricted MOD area. These are not described.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Too Driven
The arete immediately right of the descent. Good climbing, but escapable.
 HS
2
Pussy Galore
Start just right of the descent route, in a right-facing corner that forms the left-hand side of a bay. Climb the corner,...
 
1 Stars
VS 4c
3
Bad to the Bone
Start at a bolt-belay and make some reachy moves before powering up for some small holds at the lip.
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Strong
7b+
4
Il Pirata
The central line has lost holds (formerly 7a+). Cool moves and a definite crux at the roof.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Strong
7c
5
Jurrasic Coast Pimps
A very good pitch. Climb thin flakes and a slab just right of a corner to the roof. Follow jugs out to the lip of the roof and...
 
2 Stars
E1 5b
6
Svengali
Tackle the roof to the right of Jurrasic Coast Pimps via a pancake feature.
 
1 Stars
Technical
E3 6a
7
Bolt Free
Climb easily to the prominent weakness in the overhang and climb steeply over it to a small niche. Finish up the wall above.
 
1 Stars
VS 4c
8
Carbon Footprint
The steep left-facing corner and wide crack above the break is a struggle.
 HVS 5b
9
The Gift
A well-positioned pitch with good climbing. Follow the groove right of the arete to the roof. Move left to a steep crack and...
 
2 Stars
Technical
HVS 5b
10
Dry Your Eyes Mate
This is the right-hand line of the two that has some long reaches and sharp pockets. The left-hand line remains a project.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Reachy
7c+
11
Jay Kay
Follow the left-facing corner until a swing right gains a difficult wall that ends at a big overhang. Traverse left under the...
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
HVS 4c
  • Latest Comments

    For LULWORTH

    Adrenochrome
    "Same start as Horny Lil Devil" 01/May

    The Maypole
    "This climb is really comfortable till you enter the cave. Once you enter the cav..." 13/Sep

    Lower than Whale Shit
    "Did this today starting from the 'window' i.e. the reverse of the description gi..." 28/Aug

    Gates of Greyskull
    "Helpful block at start of Gates has disappeared into sea, makes first move sligh..." 07/Jun

    Horny Lil' Devil
    "I thought it was on the other side of the arch....whoops" 29/Jun top50

    Gates of Greyskull
    "There is a great alternitive start that can be done, "Skullthugery" 7c..." 28/Jun

    Cheddar Direct
    "On reflection (looked at this on Sunday), you would probably miss the ledges in ..." 03/Jun

    Cheddar Direct
    "S1 I think not. Very Serious over large ledges, loose rock and the upper slab w..." 02/Jun

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