Mojo-Pin and Il Pirate Area

Adjacent Areas
< Stair Hole East Cave  |  Amphitheatre Roofs >

Trad
Lots of sun!
15 mins
Up and Down
Abseil
Tidal
Restricted Access

Access - Lulworth Estate does not permit climbing on its grounds, it is only included in this guidebook for completeness. Additionally no climbing is allowed on the Fossil Forest or any of the cliffs to the east of the MOD fence.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Stalinist Regime
Climb the prominent groove, then move left onto a slab. Continue on up to the roof, step left and pull over on accommodating...
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
HVS 5a
2
Southern Stutter
Climb a flake up the left side of a slab past a detached spike to the roof. Make badly protected moves up rightwards to the...
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E1 5a
3
The Poet and the Thief
Climb the centre of the slab and upper wall. Poorly protected in its upper reaches.
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
VS 4b
4
Mojo-Pin
A good slab route. Climb a groove on the right and at its end make thin moves up leftwards to the roof. Finish over the roof...
 
2 Stars
Technical
VS 5a
5
Mansion Pond
A sustained and interesting route up the left-hand side of the bay, right of the Mojo-Pin slab. Technical bridging leads to a...
 
2 Stars
Technical
E2 5b
6
Mankini Biscuit
Follow the line of the thin crack that crosses the roof left of 4 Years, 5 Months...
 
2 Stars
Technical
E2 5c
7
4 Years, 5 Months and 15 Days and Still Missing You...
Bold climbing in its first half. Starting just left of an alcove, climb easily to some good gear. Harder and steeper climbing...
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E2 5b
8
Fear of Litigation
Follow the easy wall to the roof, where some powerful moves gain a small alcove, and easier climbing to finish.
 
1 Stars
E1 5b
9
Extraordinary Rendition
Climb easily up the left-hand side of an arete to the roof. Move left on good holds before making a hard move on small holds up...
 
1 Stars
E1 5c
10
Hyperbole
Climb to the cave and follow a line of thin cracks to a niche in the roof - hard to place protection. Make a difficult move...
 
2 Stars
HVS 5a
11
MC Hammer
An eliminate. Climb Hyperbole to the cave. Move up right to gain an undercut and finish just above.
 VS 4c
12
Too Driven
The arete immediately right of the descent. Good climbing, but escapable.
 HS
13
Pussy Galore
Start just right of the descent route, in a right-facing corner that forms the left-hand side of a bay. Climb the corner,...
 
1 Stars
VS 4c
14
Bad to the Bone
Start at a bolt-belay and make some reachy moves before powering up for some small holds at the lip.
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Strong
7b+
15
Il Pirata
The central line has lost holds (formerly 7a+). Cool moves and a definite crux at the roof.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Strong
7c
16
Jurrasic Coast Pimps
A very good pitch. Climb thin flakes and a slab just right of a corner to the roof. Follow jugs out to the lip of the roof and...
 
2 Stars
E1 5b
17
Svengali
Tackle the roof to the right of Jurrasic Coast Pimps via a pancake feature.
 
1 Stars
Technical
E3 6a
18
Bolt Free
Climb easily to the prominent weakness in the overhang and climb steeply over it to a small niche. Finish up the wall above.
 
1 Stars
VS 4c
19
Carbon Footprint
The steep left-facing corner and wide crack above the break is a struggle.
 HVS 5b
20
The Gift
A well-positioned pitch with good climbing. Follow the groove right of the arete to the roof. Move left to a steep crack and...
 
2 Stars
Technical
HVS 5b
21
Dry Your Eyes Mate
This is the right-hand line of the two that has some long reaches and sharp pockets. The left-hand line remains a project.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Reachy
7c+
22
Jay Kay
Follow the left-facing corner until a swing right gains a difficult wall that ends at a big overhang. Traverse left under the...
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
HVS 4c
  • Latest Comments

    For LULWORTH

    Adrenochrome
    "Same start as Horny Lil Devil" 01/May

    The Maypole
    "This climb is really comfortable till you enter the cave. Once you enter the cav..." 13/Sep

    Lower than Whale Shit
    "Did this today starting from the 'window' i.e. the reverse of the description gi..." 28/Aug

    Gates of Greyskull
    "Helpful block at start of Gates has disappeared into sea, makes first move sligh..." 07/Jun

    Horny Lil' Devil
    "I thought it was on the other side of the arch....whoops" 29/Jun top50

    Gates of Greyskull
    "There is a great alternitive start that can be done, "Skullthugery" 7c..." 28/Jun

    Cheddar Direct
    "On reflection (looked at this on Sunday), you would probably miss the ledges in ..." 03/Jun

    Cheddar Direct
    "S1 I think not. Very Serious over large ledges, loose rock and the upper slab w..." 02/Jun

    Cheddar Direct
    "Water below? Surely some mistake - a fall would very probably land you on proje..." 25/Sep

    Adrenochrome
    "Sorry Rich, i thought i had read somewhere that you had, my mistake. It was a go..." 14/Sep

    Adrenochrome
    "Hi there, I practiced it on a rope, but I didnt redpoint it. Rich." 14/Sep

    Wall of Feedback
    "The start is significantly harder than the 6b+ grade would suggest- with a move ..." 06/Sep

    Z-Cars
    "Got it 3rd go - definitely a 3 star route" 13/Aug

    The Maypole
    "did this climb at high tide... where are the foot holds inside the cave, under t..." 02/Jul

    Adrenochrome
    "I thought Rich redpointed it before he soloed it." 24/Jun

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