Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Lots of sun!
Up and Down
15 minsAbseil
Tidal
Windy
Restricted Access
Access - Lulworth Estate does not permit climbing on its grounds, it is only included in this guidebook for completeness. Additionally no climbing is allowed on the Fossil Forest or any of the cliffs to the east of the MOD fence. Guidebook page 258.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Stalinist Regime Climb the prominent groove, then move left onto a slab. Continue on up to the roof, step left and pull over on accommodating... | 1 Stars Technical Pumpy | HVS 5a |
2 |
Southern Stutter Climb a flake up the left side of a slab past a detached spike to the roof. Make badly protected moves up rightwards to the... | 1 Stars Fluttery | E1 5a |
3 |
The Poet and the Thief Climb the centre of the slab and upper wall. Poorly protected in its upper reaches. | 1 Stars Fluttery | VS 4b |
4 |
Mojo-Pin A good slab route. Climb a groove on the right and at its end make thin moves up leftwards to the roof. Finish over the roof... | 2 Stars Technical | VS 5a |
5 |
Mansion Pond A sustained and interesting route up the left-hand side of the bay, right of the Mojo-Pin slab. Technical bridging leads to a... | 2 Stars Technical | E2 5b |
6 |
Mankini Biscuit Follow the line of the thin crack that crosses the roof left of 4 Years, 5 Months... | 2 Stars Technical | E2 5c |
7 |
4 Years, 5 Months and 15 Days and Still Missing You... Bold climbing in its first half. Starting just left of an alcove, climb easily to some good gear. Harder and steeper climbing... | 1 Stars Fluttery | E2 5b |
8 |
Fear of Litigation Follow the easy wall to the roof, where some powerful moves gain a small alcove, and easier climbing to finish. | 1 Stars | E1 5b |
9 |
Extraordinary Rendition Climb easily up the left-hand side of an arete to the roof. Move left on good holds before making a hard move on small holds up... | 1 Stars | E1 5c |
10 |
Hyperbole Climb to the cave and follow a line of thin cracks to a niche in the roof - hard to place protection. Make a difficult move... | 2 Stars | HVS 5a |
11 |
MC Hammer An eliminate. Climb Hyperbole to the cave. Move up right to gain an undercut and finish just above. | VS 4c | |
