Mojo-Pin and Il Pirate Area

Adjacent Areas
< Stair Hole - East Cave  |  Amphitheatre Roofs >

Trad
Sun and Shade
15 mins
Up and Down
Abseil
Tidal
Restricted Access

A quiet section of cliff with a number of worthwhile routes on reasonable rock. There are some easier trad lines to the west, along with two big traverses that end in the restricted MOD area. These are not described.
Approach - Walk around the shingle beach of the cove and follow a steep track on the far side. Take the lower coast path, and, after about 150m, double back down the slope to a rock amphitheatre. From the far side of the amphitheatre, marked by a deep gully, scramble (Diff) or abseil down to just above the water line. The starts are reached by scrambling along the base of the cliff, which is easy at low tide, but tricky at high tide (VDiff). Leave gear well out of sight to avoid being rescued!
Tides - The starts can be reached at all tides, although it is more awkward at high tide. Stay away in rough Seas.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Stalinist Regime
Climb the prominent groove, then move left onto a slab. Continue on up to the roof, step left and pull over on accommodating...
 
1 Stars
Technical
Banned
Pumpy
HVS
2
Southern Stutter
Climb a flake up the left side of a slab past a detached spike to the roof. Make badly protected moves up rightwards to the...
 
1 Stars
Banned
Fluttery
E1
3
The Poet and the Thief
Climb the centre of the slab and upper wall. Poorly protected in its upper reaches.
 
1 Stars
Banned
Fluttery
VS
4
Mojo-Pin
A good slab route. Climb a groove on the right and at its end make thin moves up leftwards to the roof. Finish over the roof...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Strong
Banned
VS
5
Mansion Pond
A sustained and interesting route up the left-hand side of the bay, right of the Mojo-Pin slab. Technical bridging leads to a...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Strong
Banned
E2
6
Mankini Biscuit
Follow the line of the thin crack that crosses the roof left of 4 Years, 5 Months...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Strong
Banned
E2
7
4 Years, 5 Months and 15 Days and Still Missing You
Bold climbing in its first half. Starting just left of an alcove, climb easily to some good gear. Harder and steeper climbing...
 
1 Stars
Banned
Fluttery
E2
8
Fear of Litigation
Follow the easy wall to the roof, where some powerful moves gain a small alcove, and easier climbing to finish.
 
1 Stars
Strong
Banned
E1
9
Extraordinary Rendition
Climb easily up the left-hand side of an arete to the roof. Move left on good holds before making a hard move on small holds up...
 
1 Stars
Strong
Banned
E1
10
Hyperbole
Climb to the cave and follow a line of thin cracks to a niche in the roof - hard to place protection. Make a difficult move...
 
2 Stars
Banned
HVS
11
MC Hammer
An eliminate. Climb Hyperbole to the cave. Move up right to gain an undercut and finish just above.
 
Banned
VS
12
Too Driven
The arete immediately right of the descent. Good climbing, but escapable.
 
Banned
HS
13
Pussy Galore
Start just right of the descent route, in a right-facing corner that forms the left-hand side of a bay. Climb the corner,...
 
1 Stars
Banned
VS
14
Bad to the Bone
Start at a bolt-belay and make some reachy moves before powering up for some small holds at the lip.
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Strong
Banned
7b+
15
Il Pirata
The central line has lost holds (formerly 7a+). Cool moves and a definite crux at the roof.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Strong
Banned
7c
16
Jurrasic Coast Pimps
A very good pitch. Climb thin flakes and a slab just right of a corner to the roof. Follow jugs out to the lip of the roof and...
 
2 Stars
Strong
Banned
E1
17
Svengali
Tackle the roof to the right of Jurrasic Coast Pimps via a pancake feature.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Strong
Banned
E3
18
Bolt Free
Climb easily to the prominent weakness in the overhang and climb steeply over it to a small niche. Finish up the wall above.
 
1 Stars
Banned
VS
19
Carbon Footprint
The steep left-facing corner and wide crack above the break is a struggle.
 
Strong
Banned
HVS
20
The Gift
A well-positioned pitch with good climbing. Follow the groove right of the arete to the roof. Move left to a steep crack and...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Strong
Banned
HVS
21
Dry Your Eyes Mate
This is the right-hand line of the two that has some long reaches and sharp pockets. The left-hand line remains a project.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Banned
7c+
22
Jay Kay
Follow the left-facing corner until a swing right gains a difficult wall that ends at a big overhang. Traverse left under the...
 
1 Stars
Banned
Pumpy
HVS