Black Zawn

Adjacent Areas
< Avernus Area  |  Lighthouse Cliff >

Trad
Sun and Shade
Up and Down
10 mins
Abseil

Black Zawn is an enclosed and highly atmospheric zawn with big, long routes that require abseil approaches and a degree of commitment significantly higher than the other nearby sections of Subluminal. This is an awesome venue and the classic routes from the likes of Richard Crewe and Pat Littlejohn will leave lasting memories for all who venture in. Black Zawn should be considered a place for experienced parties only. Guidebook page 413.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Grooved Arete
Start as for Close to the Sun (page 411 ). Climb to a ledge, move right to below the groove in the arete and climb it and the...
 
Loose
VS 4b
2
Sweet Sixteen
Supersedes the climb Just Seventeen up the face left of The Peccary. Bold low down with little protection. Traverse left past...
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
E5 6a
3
The Peccary
A top little route although the best of it, the crack at the bottom, is over all too quickly. Lovely holds, flowing moves,...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
E2 5b
4
Astrid
Vast amounts of character, good climbing and an exciting abseil approach make this a memorable climb. The groove and crack-line...
10 user comments
 
2 Stars
HVS 5a
5
Melpomene
Fine climbing which is both steep and pumpy - the E is for Effort on this one. Good gear but beware of rope drag. Climb...
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
E4 5c
6
Mars Top 50
Stunning positions, excellent rock and sound protection.You can't go wrong - or can you? For the best experience, wait...
15 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
E2 5b
7
Achelous
Even pumpier than Melpomene. Protection is available when needed. Climb a short arete to the fault-line, then a steep rib to a...
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
E5 6a
8
Io
A pleasant outing up the crack in the East Face. Good gear. Low tide is required. Climb the crack past a rest out left to an...
 
1 Stars
VS 5a
9
Last Great Innocent
Break out rightwards from lo and boulder out the lower arete, at the edge of the zawn, on its left-hand side wall. Then...
 
1 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E5 6b
  • Latest Comments

    For SUBLUMINAL

    The Indirect Route
    "Solo top roped a number of routes including Paralysis, Stroof and Philatus. This..." 02/Apr

    Slip Road
    "I love this climb (been off it more times than on - both lead and second). This ..." 08/Jul

    All the Shakespearoes
    "Climbed a variation of my own invention. Climb through the lower overhang and a ..." 08/Jul

    Spreadeagle
    "Really easy for grade! Anyone who thinks this is 5a is high. Go climb the first ..." 01/Apr

    Magic Mushroom
    "Good gear until you move leftwards round the bulge, then a stiff and bold-feelin..." 15/Oct

    Slip Road
    "Couldn't believe I took a 10-12ft lead fall off of the crux of this after having..." 29/Sep

    Baboon
    "Baboon was always a fight; however there was a critical reach round to the top o..." 14/Jun

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