Lighthouse Cliff

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Lots of sun!
10 mins
Up and Down
Abseil

The wall that lies directly beneath the lighthouse is hard to see from the land, but has some good routes that are rarely climbed. The climbs are on generally sound rock but care is required when abseiling in, as on first acquaintance it is difficult to spot the best lines of descent to hit the ledges at the bottom.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Mellow Yellow
A hidden gem. From the left-hand end of the ledge system, climb a tough crack to the fault-line. Step right and follow a...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
VS 4c
2
Ray of Sunshine
A highly recommended pitch, on good rock with good gear where it matters. From the ledge climb easily to the fault-line and...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
E2 5c
3
Magic Mountain
From the right-hand end of the abseil ledge, ascend cracks right of a pillar to the fault-line. Climb steeply to an undercut...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
E4 6a
4
Magic Mushroom
Climb Magic Mountain to its undercut block. Where Magic Mountain swings left, go diagonally up rightwards until under the roof...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
E5 6a
5
Fraggle Rock
Adventurous climbing at the upper end of the grade. Start below and left of a jutting overhang at the fault-line. Climb past...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
HVS 5a
6
Live at the Witch Trials
Move up onto the arete and climb diagonally left to good runners at 5m. Climb up to a flake and then leftwards to a sloping...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
E2 5b
7
Hard Nose the Highway
Exposed. Follow Live at the Witch Trials for 5m to good runners. Climb up and traverse right at a roof line to gain a groove...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
HVS 5a
8
Harvest Gold
Climb the corner and cracks to its right to an overhang. Pass this on its right-hand side with difficulty and continue to the...
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
HVS 4c
9
Yellow Brick Road
Climb diagonally rightwards to a half-way ledge. Finish direct up the tasty wall using a thin crack.
 
1 Stars
VS 5a
10
Shakin' Off the Ghosts
Belay below the wall on the right-hand side (looking in) of a narrow zawn. High in the grade. Climb the wall rightwards to the...
 HVS 5a
11
Zoe
Climb a slim, left-facing corner and move right to a ledge. Move up to another ledge and then gain a groove on its left. Climb...
 VS 5a
12
Rout
Climb up leftwards with difficulty (a loose flake has fallen off) into a corner. Follow the corner to the top.
 HVS 5b
  • Latest Comments

    For SUBLUMINAL

    The Indirect Route
    "Solo top roped a number of routes including Paralysis, Stroof and Philatus. This..." 02/Apr

    Slip Road
    "I love this climb (been off it more times than on - both lead and second). This ..." 08/Jul

    All the Shakespearoes
    "Climbed a variation of my own invention. Climb through the lower overhang and a ..." 08/Jul

    Spreadeagle
    "Really easy for grade! Anyone who thinks this is 5a is high. Go climb the first ..." 01/Apr

    Magic Mushroom
    "Good gear until you move leftwards round the bulge, then a stiff and bold-feelin..." 15/Oct

    Slip Road
    "Couldn't believe I took a 10-12ft lead fall off of the crux of this after having..." 29/Sep

    Baboon
    "Baboon was always a fight; however there was a critical reach round to the top o..." 14/Jun

    The Grobbler
    "Decent climbing leads to a hard section requiring some odd moves..." 31/May

    Double Chockstone
    "An entertaining route, completely different in character from the open face clim..." 03/May

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