Lighthouse Cliff

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Sun and Shade
10 mins
Up and Down
Abseil

The wall that lies directly beneath the lighthouse is hard to see from the land, but has some good routes that are rarely climbed. The climbs are on generally sound rock but care is required when abseiling in, as on first acquaintance it is difficult to spot the best lines of descent to hit the ledges at the bottom.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Mellow Yellow
A hidden gem. From the left-hand end of the ledge system, climb a tough crack to the fault-line. Step right and follow a...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
VS
2
Ray of Sunshine
A highly recommended pitch, on good rock with good gear where it matters. From the ledge climb easily to the fault-line and...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
E2
3
Magic Mountain
From the right-hand end of the abseil ledge, ascend cracks right of a pillar to the fault-line. Climb steeply to an undercut...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
E4
4
Magic Mushroom
Climb Magic Mountain to its undercut block. Where Magic Mountain swings left, go diagonally up rightwards until under the roof...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
E5
5
Fraggle Rock
Adventurous climbing at the upper end of the grade. Start below and left of a jutting overhang at the fault-line. Climb past...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
HVS
6
Live at the Witch Trials
Move up onto the arete and climb diagonally left to good runners at 5m. Climb up to a flake and then leftwards to a sloping...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
E2
7
Hard Nose the Highway
Exposed. Follow Live at the Witch Trials for 5m to good runners. Climb up and traverse right at a roof line to gain a groove...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
HVS
8
Harvest Gold
Climb the corner and cracks to its right to an overhang. Pass this on its right-hand side with difficulty and continue to the...
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
HVS
9
Yellow Brick Road
Climb diagonally rightwards to a half-way ledge. Finish direct up the tasty wall using a thin crack.
 
1 Stars
VS
10
Shakin' Off the Ghosts
Belay below the wall on the right-hand side (looking in) of a narrow zawn. High in the grade. Climb the wall rightwards to the...
 HVS
11
Zoe
Climb a slim, left-facing corner and move right to a ledge. Move up to another ledge and then gain a groove on its left. Climb...
 VS
12
Rout
Climb up leftwards with difficulty (a loose flake has fallen off) into a corner. Follow the corner to the top.
 HVS