Adjacent Areas
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Lots of sun!
Up and Down
10 minsAbseil
Windy
The wall that lies directly beneath the lighthouse is hard to see from the land, but has some good routes that are rarely climbed. The climbs are on generally sound rock but care is required when abseiling in, as on first acquaintance it is difficult to spot the best lines of descent to hit the ledges at the bottom. Guidebook page 414.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Mellow Yellow A hidden gem. From the left-hand end of the ledge system, climb a tough crack to the fault-line. Step right and follow a... 3 user comments | 2 Stars Technical | VS 4c |
2 |
Ray of Sunshine A highly recommended pitch, on good rock with good gear where it matters. From the ledge climb easily to the fault-line and... | 2 Stars Pumpy | E2 5c |
3 |
Magic Mountain From the right-hand end of the abseil ledge, ascend cracks right of a pillar to the fault-line. Climb steeply to an undercut... | 2 Stars Technical Pumpy | E4 6a |
4 |
Magic Mushroom Climb Magic Mountain to its undercut block. Where Magic Mountain swings left, go diagonally up rightwards until under the roof... 1 user comment | 1 Stars | E5 6a |
5 |
Fraggle Rock Adventurous climbing at the upper end of the grade. Start below and left of a jutting overhang at the fault-line. Climb past... 3 user comments | 2 Stars Pumpy | HVS 5a |
6 |
Live at the Witch Trials Move up onto the arete and climb diagonally left to good runners at 5m. Climb up to a flake and then leftwards to a sloping... 1 user comment | 1 Stars Pumpy | E2 5b |
7 |
Hard Nose the Highway Exposed. Follow Live at the Witch Trials for 5m to good runners. Climb up and traverse right at a roof line to gain a groove... 1 user comment | 1 Stars | HVS 5a |
8 |
Harvest Gold Climb the corner and cracks to its right to an overhang. Pass this on its right-hand side with difficulty and continue to the... 3 user comments | 1 Stars | HVS 4c |
9 |
Yellow Brick Road Climb diagonally rightwards to a half-way ledge. Finish direct up the tasty wall using a thin crack. | 1 Stars | VS 5a |
10 |
Shakin' Off the Ghosts Belay below the wall on the right-hand side (looking in) of a narrow zawn. High in the grade. Climb the wall rightwards to the... | HVS 5a | |
11 |
Zoe Climb a slim, left-facing corner and move right to a ledge. Move up to another ledge and then gain a groove on its left. Climb... | VS 5a | |
12 |
Rout Climb up leftwards with difficulty (a loose flake has fallen off) into a corner. Follow the corner to the top. | HVS 5b | |