Face Area

Adjacent Areas
< Bird's Nest Bay  |  Stroof Area >

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Lots of sun!
10 mins
Up and Down
Abseil

An excellent section of cliff with superb rock. There is a wide selection of grades and style of climbing of offer varying from bold face lines to some thuggy pump-outs. Guidebook page 405.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Via Christina
A wild route with great moves on big holds up the steep arete. Start just beyond the far end of the high ledges. Climb the...
6 user comments
 
2 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
HVS 5a
2
Dead Good
The left wall of the gully, starting from the gully as for Greasy Chimney. Move left and up the wall on small holds to a little...
 
Reachy
Technical
Fluttery
E5 6b
3
Greasy Chimney
An atmospheric and slightly exposed start but easy climbing thereafter. Not always as unpleasant as the name implies.
3 user comments
 VD
4
Suspension
A great climb with lots of good protection. Climb a short corner then move slightly left and climb easily to the top. Can be a...
5 user comments
 
1 Stars
S 4a
5
Whynot
Follow a thin crack and pass a small overhang on its right to gain a ledge. Move up a small ramp and pull over a bulge to...
 
1 Stars
HS 4b
6
Dolphin
A nice pitch up the blank rib with no gear to speak of but with steady climbing.
4 user comments
 
Fluttery
VS 4b
7
Curving Crack
Safe bridging up the steep corner crack eases as height is gained. Take some large nuts.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Strong
S 4a
8
Face
An unlikely looking route at the grade which is well worth doing. Climb the left edge of the wall which is protectable once the...
7 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
S 4a
9
Face Central
Poorly-protected but good climbing up the wall past a hole.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
VS 4c
10
Face Away
The groove and wall just right of Face Central. As with the previous line, the climbing is good but the gear is minimal.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
VS 4c
11
Tittsworth
Climb up the right-trending flake for a couple of metres and then move left on to the wall. Climb directly to a small corner...
 
1 Stars
HVS 5a
12
Dead Man Hunt
Climb up the right-facing flake to a roof. Pull up steeply left into a groove and finish up it.
 
1 Stars
E1 5b
13
Baboon
A fun route which has seen some frustrated attempts over the last few years since the demise of the hold on the crux. Climb up...
20 user comments
 
1 Stars
Strong
HVS 5b
14
The Grobbler
A pumpy eliminate up the thin cracks and bulges just right of Baboon. Finish as for Baboon.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Strong
E1 5b
15
Transcript Direct
Good, physical climbing up the steep corner and narrow chimney/crack. A forceful approach pays dividends but don't forget to...
7 user comments
 
1 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
HVS 5a
16
Paralysis
A neat, committing test-piece up a blank wall. Climb the wall to the left of an overhang (on Balcony) and finish up the...
4 user comments
 
Technical
Fluttery
E2 5c
  • Latest Comments

    For SUBLUMINAL

    The Indirect Route
    "Solo top roped a number of routes including Paralysis, Stroof and Philatus. This..." 02/Apr

    Slip Road
    "I love this climb (been off it more times than on - both lead and second). This ..." 08/Jul

    All the Shakespearoes
    "Climbed a variation of my own invention. Climb through the lower overhang and a ..." 08/Jul

    Spreadeagle
    "Really easy for grade! Anyone who thinks this is 5a is high. Go climb the first ..." 01/Apr

    Magic Mushroom
    "Good gear until you move leftwards round the bulge, then a stiff and bold-feelin..." 15/Oct

    Slip Road
    "Couldn't believe I took a 10-12ft lead fall off of the crux of this after having..." 29/Sep

    Baboon
    "Baboon was always a fight; however there was a critical reach round to the top o..." 14/Jun

    The Grobbler
    "Decent climbing leads to a hard section requiring some odd moves..." 31/May

    Double Chockstone
    "An entertaining route, completely different in character from the open face clim..." 03/May

    Pedestal Chimney
    "Only just makes it as a route. Very short and scrappy." 18/Apr

    Bypass
    "Gear a bit sparse at the start but good moves after you gain the ledge. Cam stuc..." 11/Sep

    Poetry in Motion
    "each time i do this it leads me right towards second corner near the top. is th..." 05/Oct

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