Teenage Lust Area

Adjacent Areas
< Acid Jazz Area  |  The Rampart >

Sport
Sun and Shade
16 mins
Downhill

Some well-positioned routes above an elevated ledge.
Approach - Drive through Weston and, at a roundabout, turn right into Reap Lane and park after the first traffic-calming installation. From here go past the second traffic-calming installation, and pick up a footpath/track on the right (opposite Rip Croft) that heads towards the huge Southwell Business Park complex. At the massive fence, turn right and follow it to the coast path. From the coast path, drop down a path that cuts back right and then left to the small walls. Continue under the Acid Jazz Area to where the main path descends to the boulder beach. The ledges at the base of the climbs are reached via a series of knotted ropes. Take care with these and check the ropes are in good condition.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Precious to the Last
Old bolts. Desperate grit-like palming which needs good conditions for a successful ascent.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7c
2
Ecstasy
Old bolts. Trend rightwards up the wide open scoop.
 
1 Stars
7a+
3
Live Now, Pay Later
Climb directly up the sustained, tilted wall.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
7a+
4
John Craven's Jumper Contest
Fine laybacking up the groove. Good moves.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
6c
5
The Watchmaker's Hands
Some very intense moves on small side-pulls.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7c
6
Breakfast of Champions
Follow the right-hand line of bolts at the crux.
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
7b+
7
Youth Body Expression Explosion
A good route with a witheringly hard crux right at the top.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
7b
8
To Hungary For Love
The blunt arete has sustained moves on side-pulls and smears.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
8a
9
So Shoot Me
Technical wall-climbing with some hard pocket-moves.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
7a+
10
Lolita
A big, sweeping line up the ramp and flake that breaks left from Teenage Lust at its third bolt. Some find a stick-clip...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
7b+
11
Teenage Lust
There is a killer move off two monos. Slightly bold low down, with a tricky third clip (use a stick-clip if unsure) and exposed...
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Pumpy
Fluttery
7b+