New Dawn Area

Adjacent Areas
< The Funky Wall  |  Armed Insurgence Area >

Trad
Lots of sun!
40 mins
Up and Down
Abseil

This section of cliff suffered a massive rockfall in 2009 and has had a number of new routes added.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Where the Land Meets the Sea
Follow a big diagonal flake to two sling placements. Finish direct via a run-out technical scoop. The start has changed.
 
Fluttery
E2 5c
2
When Land Becomes Sea
The crack-line on the left-hand side of the rockfall. Can be started direct on right or moving in from the left.
 
2 Stars
E1 5b
3
New Dawn
Start 8m right of the corner that marks the start of When Land Becomes Sea. Boulder past a small thread and then break left and...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
E6 6b
4
Double 'ard Bastard
Start as for New Dawn. Boulder past the small thread and gain the stuck-on encrusted slab on the right. Climb up on these to...
 
2 Stars
E4 6b
5
Just as 'ard
Follow Double 'ard Bastard to its sloping roof and finish straight over it directly to the top.
 
1 Stars
E4 6b
6
StuckOn
Start 12m right of When Land Becomes Sea. With a full rack of skyhooks, follow the stuck-on flowstone holds up and slightly...
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
E5 6a
7
Slide Show
Start 18m right of When Land Becomes Sea at the base of a flake that finishes at half height. Place as much gear as you can,...
 
3 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
Fluttery
E7 6c
8
On the Third Day
15m. Climb a groove from the left-hand side of the recess, finishing rightward past a roof via a flake line.
 
1 Stars
E3 5c
9
Break Like a Wave
15m. An unusual direct start to the next route, only the tall will reach the lip of the roof. From abseil, pre-place a sling...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Strong
E4 6b
10
Moving Away from Rufty Tufty
16m. A serious route. Make a brutal pull up the roof-crack (as for Rufty Tufty) then move diagonally left up a ‘grit-like' ramp...
 
1 Stars
Strong
Fluttery
E5 6b
11
Rufty Tufty
15m. Climb the roof-crack as for the last route but continue direct up the easier, pocketed crack above. Step right to finish.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Strong
E4 6b
12
Rufty Tufty Vivisects His Mummy
16m. Features French-style ‘gouttes'. Start as for Rufty Tufty then make a hard traverse right to the base of a the...
 
1 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
E5 6b
13
Hallucinating Freely
15m. High in the grade; it only has two runners. Start 15m left (looking in) of Aubergine. From the right-hand side of a...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Fluttery
E6 6b
14
End of the Innocence
15m. A reasonably well-protected route with some great climbing. Start 3m right along the thin ledge and head out rightwards up...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
E4 6b