Adjacent Areas
< None | West Face - Right >
Trad
Lots of sun!
Up and Down
25 minsAbseil
Windy
Restricted Access
Bird ban 01/03-31/06 (rts 8-10)
This is one of the most impressive sections of cliff at Swanage, and also one of the most intimidating. The cliff's well-respected sheer white face and adjoining sea cave have an array of hard multi-pitch climbs that weave their way up and around its well-featured bulk. The rock is generally good, although the finishes need care. Guidebook page 312.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Dougal the Great A big route taking a huge diagonal line to finish at a high leaning chimney. Start near the right-hand side of the low cave... | 2 Stars Strong Pumpy | E6 6c |
2 |
Race for the Oasis A wandering outing but with good pitches. Start at the very right-hand side of the low roof.1) 6a, 25m. Gain a chimney and... 1 user comment | 1 Stars Pumpy | E5 6a |
3 |
Sons of Pioneers Very intricate route finding and another set of bold and interesting link-ups. Start as for Race for the Oasis.1) 6a, 18m.... | 1 Stars Pumpy Fluttery | E6 6b |
4 |
Tudor Rose Top 50 A remote route that takes a looping line across the hanging wall above the sea cave, then back across the capping white wall.... 5 user comments | 3 Stars Pumpy | E2 5b |
5 |
Facedancin' Stupendous wall climbing up the best line on the face. The climbing is hard, and high in the grade, but the gear is very good... 5 user comments | 3 Stars Technical Pumpy | E3 6a |
6 |
Oceanid The dominating central crack-line. Steep, strenuous and intimidating and with some loose rock on pitch two. Start 5m right of... 11 user comments | 2 Stars Pumpy | E2 5b |
7 |
Fly Crazy But Free Technical and pumpy climbing blasting up the white face just right of Oceanid pitch 2. An airily-positioned top pitch that is... 3 user comments | 2 Stars Technical Pumpy | E5 6b |
8 |
Warlord Top 50 A great top pitch that heads up the leaning white headwall at its highest point. Start on the huge boulders right of the sea... 9 user comments | 3 Stars Pumpy | E4 6a |
9 |
Vikings Three fine pitches right of Warlord. Technical and sustained with small wires essential. Start 20m right of Oceanid at two... 2 user comments | 2 Stars Technical Pumpy Loose | E4 6a |
