West Face

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Lots of sun!
25 mins
Up and Down
Abseil
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This is one of the most impressive sections of cliff at Swanage, and also one of the most intimidating. The cliff's well-respected sheer white face and adjoining sea cave have an array of hard multi-pitch climbs that weave their way up and around its well-featured bulk. The rock is generally good, although the finishes need care.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Dougal the Great
A big route taking a huge diagonal line to finish at a high leaning chimney. Start near the right-hand side of the low cave...
 
2 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
E6 6c
2
Race for the Oasis
A wandering outing but with good pitches. Start at the very right-hand side of the low roof.1) 6a, 25m. Gain a chimney and...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
E5 6a
3
Sons of Pioneers
Very intricate route finding and another set of bold and interesting link-ups. Start as for Race for the Oasis.1) 6a, 18m....
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
E6 6b
4
Tudor Rose Top 50
A remote route that takes a looping line across the hanging wall above the sea cave, then back across the capping white wall....
5 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
E2 5b
5
Facedancin'
Stupendous wall climbing up the best line on the face. The climbing is hard, and high in the grade, but the gear is very good...
5 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
E3 6a
6
Oceanid
The dominating central crack-line. Steep, strenuous and intimidating and with some loose rock on pitch two. Start 5m right of...
11 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
E2 5b
7
Fly Crazy But Free
Technical and pumpy climbing blasting up the white face just right of Oceanid pitch 2. An airily-positioned top pitch that is...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
E5 6b
8
Warlord Top 50
A great top pitch that heads up the leaning white headwall at its highest point. Start on the huge boulders right of the sea...
9 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
E4 6a
9
Vikings
Three fine pitches right of Warlord. Technical and sustained with small wires essential. Start 20m right of Oceanid at two...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Loose
E4 6a
10
Caiaphas
An adventurous route with a good bottom pitch. Start at a short corner 3m right of a huge pillar that leans against the...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
Loose
E3 5c
11
Deaf Mosaic
The blank white face right of Caiaphas.1) 6c, 25m. Climb direct as for Caiaphas to a horizontal break beneath the wall....
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
Loose
E6 6c
12
Valkyrie
The huge corner is a major feature of the cliff but has a very loose top pitch. Not recommended. Start beneath the...
 
Loose
VS 4b
13
Be-Bop-Deluxe
The right wall of Valkyrie's first pitch, has open face climbing on mostly solid rock. The upper pitch is looser and airy but...
 
1 Stars
Loose
E2 5b
14
Valkyrie Buttress Direct
A nice route with a fairly sound finish. Start at a steep wall below a big roof in the middle of the seaward face of Valkyrie...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
HVS 5a
15
Zo Zo
An impressive climb for the grade that has an excellent first pitch, but finishes on some poor rock, requiring care.1) 4b,...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
Loose
VS 4b
16
No Mistaking
Climb straight up black pocketed rock, past an angular chockstone in a horizontal break to a thread. Pass the thread on the...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
E3 5c
17
Mistaken Identity
A nice little route on good rock and with a relatively solid finish. Climb up the left side of the black overhang and continue...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
VS 4c
18
True Identity
A good but forgotten route. Start as for Mistaken Identity. Follow Mistaken Identity until just passed the roof. Move right...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
HVS 5a
  • Latest Comments

    For GUILLEMOT LEDGE

    Tensor II
    "8/4/14 - Nice and straightforward with good gear and plenty of holds. a stiff sh..." 09/May top50

    True Identity
    "Good value route with nice face climbing high up and decent gear." 17/Sep

    Batt Crack
    "BIG WARNING! Great first pitch - until the 'good belay ledge'. I think a fair..." 26/Jul top50

    Ledgend Direct
    "First HVS lead. Great route, loads of bomber gear with just a couple of awkward ..." 22/Oct

    Tensor II
    "Lovely committing moves left under the roof on undercuts, and no sign of the san..." 15/Aug top50

    The Spook
    "Great route but the guidebook is confusing about where to go on the second pitch..." 14/Jun top50

    Ledgend
    "There has been a rockfall in the corner just below the faultline on pitch 1. It'..." 16/Apr

    Ledgend Direct
    "Climbed this lovely route in the sun today. Nice bottom pitch. Very well protect..." 20/Feb

    Warlord
    "similar experiences to above, plus the fact that it was only about 4 degrees yes..." 01/Feb top50

    Sapphire
    ""Only" 5a - but every move is 5a. A full body workout. You have to tr..." 14/Sep

    Strapiombo
    "I have climbed the hanging groove in the arete between Strapiombo and Tensor II...." 10/May

    Batt Crack
    "I climbed it for my third time last weekend. Maybe I'm getting old, maybe I was..." 06/May top50

    Sapphire
    "***The important peg under the roof has now completely gone*** You now need to ..." 07/Apr

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