Funky Wall - Right

Adjacent Areas
< The Funky Wall  |  New Dawn Area >

Trad
Lots of sun!
Up and Down
40 mins
Abseil

There are no deep water solos on this section of the cliff, it is back to trad lines on excellent quality rock. Guidebook page 340.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
The Rise and Dear Demise of the Funky Nomadic Tribes
Make a tricky start up a slight groove starting from the left-hand side of the main ledge. Awkward to arrange protection.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
HVS 5a
2
Ten Thousand Spoons
The wall above the middle of the ledge gives good face climbing on seams and cracks. Hard for the grade.
1 user comment
 
Technical
Fluttery
E2 5c
3
The Friendly Ranger of Durlston Castle
A tricky face climb, starting from the right-hand side of the ledge. The finish is on poor rock but with good gear below.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E2 5c
4
Telomere
A very pleasant pitch. From the right-hand side of the ledge taking a rightward-trending line of holds into a small notch at...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
E1 5b
5
The Talisman
A serious eliminate. Start as for Telomere initially then head out right via a pocketed break (thread) to another thread and...
 
1 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E6 6a
6
Gorillas in the Mist
A quality line which starts as for The Talisman. At the thread at the end of the pocketed traverse, ascend a cracked layback...
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
E3 5c
7
Charmed Life
This route gives The Talisman a long direct start for a fine, balanced, hard route. Trend right to the low break (good wires)...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E6 6b
8
The Slant
The bold, left-trending ramp starting up The Friendly Landlord of Durlston Castle. Climb diagonally past two very thin threads...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
E3 5c
9
The Friendly Landlord of Durlston Castle
Climb the right-hand side of the rib, 5m left of the huge rockfall scar. At two thirds height, move left 3m and finish past a...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
E1 5b
  • Latest Comments

    For FISHERMAN'S LEDGE

    Damage Case
    "it took me 3 trips to get to the right spot for the abseil in for the routes off..." 07/May

    Paternoster
    "Found this quite stiff." 29/Jan

    Damage Case
    "a nasty start, followed by a lovely top section; harder but not as good as Calci..." 22/Jul

    Calcitron
    "Possible new route up the wall to the right of Calcitron at about E3 5c. More in..." 25/Apr

    Gorillas in the Mist
    "Threads replaced (June 09) though would only really trust the one at the bottom ..." 29/Jun

    Palace of the Brine
    "rebolted with shiny new glue ins. there is also another bolt line in this cave t..." 13/Jun

    Sue's Route
    "Nice route. OK at the grade I thought." 19/Apr

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