Funky Wall - Right

Adjacent Areas
< The Funky Wall | New Dawn Area >

Trad

Lots of sun!

Up and Down

40 mins

Abseil

Windy

There are no deep water solos on this section of the cliff, it is back to trad lines on excellent quality rock. Guidebook page 340.

Route (click for voting and user comments)		Symbols	Grade
1	The Rise and Dear Demise of the Funky Nomadic Tribes Make a tricky start up a slight groove starting from the left-hand side of the main ledge. Awkward to arrange protection. 2 user comments	1 Stars	HVS 5a
2	Ten Thousand Spoons The wall above the middle of the ledge gives good face climbing on seams and cracks. Hard for the grade. 1 user comment	Technical Fluttery	E2 5c
3	The Friendly Ranger of Durlston Castle A tricky face climb, starting from the right-hand side of the ledge. The finish is on poor rock but with good gear below. 1 user comment	1 Stars Fluttery	E2 5c
4	Telomere A very pleasant pitch. From the right-hand side of the ledge taking a rightward-trending line of holds into a small notch at... 2 user comments	1 Stars Technical Pumpy	E1 5b
5	The Talisman A serious eliminate. Start as for Telomere initially then head out right via a pocketed break (thread) to another thread and...	1 Stars Technical Fluttery	E6 6a
6	Gorillas in the Mist A quality line which starts as for The Talisman. At the thread at the end of the pocketed traverse, ascend a cracked layback... 4 user comments	2 Stars	E3 5c
7	Charmed Life This route gives The Talisman a long direct start for a fine, balanced, hard route. Trend right to the low break (good wires)...	2 Stars Technical Fluttery	E6 6b
8	The Slant The bold, left-trending ramp starting up The Friendly Landlord of Durlston Castle. Climb diagonally past two very thin threads... 2 user comments	1 Stars Pumpy Fluttery	E3 5c
9	The Friendly Landlord of Durlston Castle Climb the right-hand side of the rib, 5m left of the huge rockfall scar. At two thirds height, move left 3m and finish past a... 1 user comment	1 Stars	E1 5b

Latest Comments

For FISHERMAN'S LEDGE

Damage Case
"it took me 3 trips to get to the right spot for the abseil in for the routes off..." 07/May

Paternoster
"Found this quite stiff." 29/Jan

Damage Case
"a nasty start, followed by a lovely top section; harder but not as good as Calci..." 22/Jul

Calcitron
"Possible new route up the wall to the right of Calcitron at about E3 5c. More in..." 25/Apr

Gorillas in the Mist
"Threads replaced (June 09) though would only really trust the one at the bottom ..." 29/Jun

Palace of the Brine
"rebolted with shiny new glue ins. there is also another bolt line in this cave t..." 13/Jun

Sue's Route
"Nice route. OK at the grade I thought." 19/Apr
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