Heroes of Swanage

Adjacent Areas
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Sport
Sun and Shade
3 mins
Downhill
Sheltered

A steep wall of reasonable rock that provides some stout challenges. There is a trench in front of the lines which makes belaying awkward and some extra care is needed on a couple of the routes to prevent falling off the ledges.
Approach - Park in Cheyne Weares car park and walk south for 50m. The quarry is on the right and the Heroes of Swanage Sector is the first section of the cliff encountered.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Well 'ard
Just as the name says, the short blank wall is tough.
 7a+
2
Little Terror
A sporting mantel into the corner groove leads to powerful moves on big holds to gain the ledge above. Great fun on excellent...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
5a
3
Blood on the Rocks
Step across the rift to a faint groove, climb this and move right to cross the overhang. Take care with the conglomerate on the...
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
6a
4
The Clicking of Her Needles Spelled Doom
Step across the rift, crimp to the break and then step left and follow flowstone to the top.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
6b+
5
Can You See Scratchy Bottom?
Climb the crack and wall above. Well, can you?
 6a+
6
Dad Gets Another Monkey Bite
A large sloping boulder facing the rift area has been stapled to give a practice spot for beginners.
 2
7
Truly, Madly, Steeply
A neat tufa. Unusual climbing, but with some good moves.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Strong
7b
8
Heroes of Swanage
Make some difficult layback moves to the break and continue up the steep crack.
2 user comments
 
Strong
5c
9
Heroes of Portland
Start up Heroes of Swanage, but step rightwards for more technical fare. A tough little number.
 
Technical
6b
10
Lifesigns
Blind and very fingery moves.
 
Crimpy
7a+
11
Sex, Lies and Videotape
The gritstone-like grey wall on the far right of the rift.
2 user comments
 
Crimpy
7a