Sweet Smell of Success Area

Adjacent Areas
< Seaside Slab  |  Bladerunner Area >

Sport
Sun and Shade
18 mins
Downhill

A really good section of cliff with a handful of classic pitches. The base of the crag is grassy, stable and quite sheltered. Some routes can be dusty and Sweet Smell of Success suffers from seepage at times.
Approach - Drive through Weston and, at a roundabout, turn right into Reap Lane and park after the first traffic-calming installation. From here go past the second traffic-calming installation, and pick up a footpath/track on the right (opposite Rip Croft) that heads towards the huge Southwell Business Park complex. At the massive fence, turn right and follow it to the coast path. From the coast path, drop down a path that cuts back right and then left to the small walls. Follow the path under the other sectors and down to the boulder beach. From here, scramble easily up to the grass terrace below the wall.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
My Dog's Got Fleas
Excellent rock and climbing up the rounded rib.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7b+
2
Poop Scoop
Climb up to a flake-crack, then move left onto the arete.
7 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
6c
3
Yikes Shaggy
A more direct version of Poop Scoop.
 
1 Stars
Technical
6c
4
Pixie and the Milford Powerhouse
The flake-crack starting up Poop Scoop.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
6a
5
Scoobydoobydoo
The steep wall has a long move just before the roof finish.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Technical
6b
6
Scooby Snacks
A striking arete. Climb the straightforward lower wall to a hand-ledge. Make a hard mantelshelf and further hard moves onto the...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
7a
7
The Heanous Quest
Climb over the flake to a short groove. Follow this to a handrail that leads up right onto the headwall.
2 user comments
 
Technical
6a+
8
Hen's Tooth
Tackle the bulge to gain a scoop. Leaving this requires a long reach. The bulging rib on the right provides the finish.
 
Reachy
Strong
7b
9
Sang Froid
A very good line. Climb the steep wall and arete on its right to a hard finish.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7c
10
So You Want to Be Happy
Old/no bolts at the present time.
 7a+
11
Up on the Hill
Climb the wall and blunt rib then move onto the face above. Easier climbing remains.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
7a
12
Hallelujah
A good route that, despite being well-bolted, still feels bold.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Reachy
7a
13
Old Speckled Hen
A worthwhile pitch. Climb the wall to gain a prominent flake-hold. Reach the thin crack above and follow this to the slabby...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Reachy
6c+
14
Stone Cold Sober
A good climb, squeezed in just left of Stay Golden, and sharing its start. Quite blind on the crux.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
7b
15
Stay Golden Top 50
The first of three classics in this area features stylish climbing on great rock.
6 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7b
16
Sweet Smell of Success Top 50
An outstanding route that overhangs gently all the way. One of the best lines on Portland.
6 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
7b
17
Frazzled
A stunning and difficult line up the faint, streaked flake just right of the arete. There are three cruxes, each with its own...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Reachy
Technical
Pumpy
7b
18
Streaky
Not surprisingly, this follows the streaky wall.
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
6c+
19
Das Boot
A good face-climb. Follow the line of conventional bolts up a short steep wall to gain the blackened upper face. Intricate...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
6c+