The Nook

Adjacent Areas
< Road Rage Area  |  None >

Sport
Morning sun
Level
2 mins
Sheltered
Restricted Access

Bird ban 01/03-31/06.


A tiny, wedged-shaped wall perched above the large neighbouring cliff. It has a number of short climbs on solid and well-bolted rock, a quick approach and is very sheltered.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Leering Crack
The headwall crack left of Air Kisses. Climb the short lower wall - no bolt - and then move left to climb the crack on its...
 5
2
Air Kisses
Start below the widest overhang of the headwall. Packs in a lot of tricky moves.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
6c
3
My Pashminas Got Caught in the Gri-gri
From the corner created by the pedestal, climb up to the V-notch in the headwall.
 
Technical
Crimpy
6a
4
East Side Story
From the corner created by the pedestal, climb up and move right at the break to enter the slanting groove in the headwall from...
 5+
5
Chill Dementia
Right of the pedestal. A tricky start on the lower wall accesses the blocky corner in the headwall where good holds are found.
 4+
6
Sinister Dexter
The left-hand of three routes that climb the flowstone headwall at the right end of the crag. Good moves on the lower wall lead...
 
1 Stars
6a+
7
Bring Me Sunshine
Climb the middle of the flowstone headwall. Start from the base of a rightward-sloping ramp and climb straight up to a...
 6a
8
Its a God Awful Small Affair
Climb the sloping ramp or the wall to its right to gain the conglomerate groove above. Some amazing holds.
 2
  • Latest Comments

    For CHEYNE CLIFF

    Pouch of Douglas
    "There is a direct abseil approach from Dungecroft Quarry to this set of four rou..." 09/Mar

    Yesterday's Dreams
    "Thought it was utterly desperate - a good deal harder than Road Rage." 19/Jun

    Pandemonium
    "The second and third bolts have been replaced." 22/Mar

    Raptor
    "The start has collapsed." 27/Feb

    Raptor
    "I didn't find rope drag to be a problem on this. Very soft for 6c as the crux is..." 20/Jul

    Rocket from the Crypt
    "Agreed Darren this is an excellent route, short crux but right up there with ED,..." 14/Oct

    Detonator
    "Crimpy lower section though not as strong a line as Road Rage. Great crux moves ..." 22/Sep

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