Adjacent Areas
< Coralized Area | The Nook >
Sport
Morning sun
Downhill
10 minsA narrow section of continuous rock is sandwiched between the two main walls. The climbs are worthwhile, but care is needed with some of the holds. There is no restriction on this wall, but please only approach these routes from above (abseil in from above Road Rage in Dungecroft Quarry) when the restriction is on the rest of the crag - 1st March to 30th June. Guidebook page 213.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
The Pigskin Bus Pulls Into Tuna Town It is worth persevering with the dirty start, since the rest of the pitch gives good flowstone climbing. 6 user comments | 1 Stars | 6a |
2 |
Dutch Courage Break out right from Pigskin Bus... at the third bolt. 2 user comments | 1 Stars | 6c |
3 |
Found Under Carnal Knowledge A friable start, but better above. High in the grade. 7 user comments | 1 Stars Pumpy | 7a |
4 |
Fireblade A good pitch with a very blind crux. High in the grade. | 2 Stars Technical Pumpy Crimpy | 7b+ |
5 |
Dynomite An impressive line up the steep orange scoop, gained by swinging right from the third bolt on Fireblade. Could be 8a. 1 user comment | 2 Stars Strong Crimpy | 7c+ |
6 |
Pandemonium Sustained and reachy climbing with hard moves right at the top. Approach using the fixed rope. 3 user comments | 2 Stars Reachy Strong Pumpy | 7c+ |
7 |
Poisoned Bamboo Sustained left link from half height on No Turn Unstoned to last moves of Pandemonium via some quality rock. | 2 Stars Pumpy | 7c |
8 |
No Turn Unstoned A good pitch on excellent rock that follows the right-hand side of the face. Approach using the fixed rope. | 2 Stars Technical Pumpy | 7a |