Pigskin Bus Area

Adjacent Areas
< Coralized Area  |  The Nook >

Sport
Morning sun
10 mins
Downhill
Sheltered

A narrow section of continuous rock is sandwiched between the two main walls. The climbs are worthwhile, but care is needed with some of the holds. There is no restriction on this wall, but please only approach these routes from above (abseil in from above Road Rage in Dungecroft Quarry) when the restriction is on the rest of the crag - 1st March to 30th June.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
The Pigskin Bus Pulls Into Tuna Town
It is worth persevering with the dirty start, since the rest of the pitch gives good flowstone climbing.
6 user comments
 
1 Stars
6a
2
Dutch Courage
Break out right from Pigskin Bus... at the third bolt.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
6c
3
Found Under Carnal Knowledge
A friable start, but better above. High in the grade.
7 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
7a
4
Fireblade
A good pitch with a very blind crux. High in the grade.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Crimpy
7b+
5
Dynomite
An impressive line up the steep orange scoop, gained by swinging right from the third bolt on Fireblade. Could be 8a.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Strong
Crimpy
7c+
6
Pandemonium
Sustained and reachy climbing with hard moves right at the top. Approach using the fixed rope.
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Strong
Pumpy
7c+
7
Poisoned Bamboo
Sustained left link from half height on No Turn Unstoned to last moves of Pandemonium via some quality rock.
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
7c
8
No Turn Unstoned
A good pitch on excellent rock that follows the right-hand side of the face. Approach using the fixed rope.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7a
  • Latest Comments

    For CHEYNE CLIFF

    Rocket from the Crypt
    "See warning about Drowning on Dry Land. Rocket from the Crypt is still there, bu..." 26/Aug

    Pouch of Douglas
    "There is a direct abseil approach from Dungecroft Quarry to this set of four rou..." 09/Mar

    Yesterday's Dreams
    "Thought it was utterly desperate - a good deal harder than Road Rage." 19/Jun

    Pandemonium
    "The second and third bolts have been replaced." 22/Mar

    Raptor
    "The start has collapsed." 27/Feb

    Raptor
    "I didn't find rope drag to be a problem on this. Very soft for 6c as the crux is..." 20/Jul

    Rocket from the Crypt
    "Agreed Darren this is an excellent route, short crux but right up there with ED,..." 14/Oct

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