The Bigger Piece Area

Adjacent Areas
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Sport
Afternoon sun
Downhill
20 mins

An eye-catching, towering buttress, which is home to some exhilarating and exposed climbs that are well worth the long approach via the boulder beach. Guidebook page 150.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
The Bigger Piece
One of the longest lines on Portland up a huge pillar. The reach symbol is for clipping the bolts (tip - do No Place for Mambas...
7 user comments
 
2 Stars
Reachy
7a+
2
No Place for Mambas
Quality face climbing on the headwall and generously bolted.
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
6b
3
Opposites Attract
Thin and sustained face climbing on quality rock high up.
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
6c
4
Mick Lovatt Stole My Trousers
Follow the long layback crack at the top.
5 user comments
 
1 Stars
6b+
5
Cool to be Uncool
An unusual arete climb that feels bold. No lower-off.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Strong
7b+
6
Coconut Milk
A worthwhile face route that follows the thin crack-line.
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
7a
7
On a Desert Island Beach
The well-positioned arete. Start up On a Desert Island Beach.
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
7a+
8
Vin Chaud
A fine left-hand finish to Accordians Go Crazy up some flakes.
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
7a
9
Accordions Go Crazy
Start to the left of the flake. Initially the rock is a bit crumbly, but it improves dramatically above.
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
6b+
10
Basrah Blues Band
Climb a flake to a ledge. Follow the groove above to a tricky bulge. The slab above this leads to the lower-off.
 
1 Stars
Technical
6c
  • Latest Comments

    For WALLSEND SOUTH

    Once Upon a Time in The West
    "A large block has come out at the start, taking the first bolt with it." 29/Jul

    Saskatchewan Uranium Miner
    "Now Fully Bolted." 05/Jun

    Immaculata
    "Fine now. A lovely climb." 02/Jul

    Clacichew
    "Pleasant steady climbing on frictional flowstone. Well worth a star or two." 17/May

    Moan, Moan, Moan
    "No mantelshelf needed on roof. Here's another description of the route: tentativ..." 18/Apr

    Realm of Chaos
    "Brilliant route. Second the comment about the reach symbol for the move around ..." 11/Apr

    Stalker's Zone
    "The first bolt was replaced last autumn - it was missing for almost 10 years!" 22/Mar top50

    Stalker's Zone
    "Someone seems to have kindly added an extra bolt at the bottom so it all feels n..." 21/Mar top50

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