The Bigger Piece Area

Adjacent Areas
< None  |  Mr. Natural Area >

Sport
Sun and Shade
20 mins
Downhill

An eye-catching, towering buttress, which is home to some exhilarating and exposed climbs that are well worth the long approach via the boulder beach.
Approach - Drive to Portland Bill and park in the car park (fee). Walk back up the road past the Pulpit Inn and head out leftwards up a minor road towards the Coastwatch Lookout. Just before the Coastwatch Lookout, go down a grass slope to the cliff edge (see map on page 166) then descend a steep and precarious path (rope sometimes in place) onto a promontory and then continue down right to below Coastguard North. Walk north under this, past a gully, to reach Wallsend South. The wall is about mid-way along Wallsend Cove, so it can also be approached from either the north.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
The Bigger Piece
One of the longest lines on Portland up a huge pillar. The reach symbol is for clipping the bolts (tip - do No Place for Mambas...
7 user comments
 
2 Stars
Reachy
7a+
2
No Place for Mambas
Quality face climbing on the headwall and generously bolted.
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
6b
3
Opposites Attract
Thin and sustained face climbing on quality rock high up.
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
6c
4
Mick Lovatt Stole My Trousers
Follow the long layback crack at the top.
5 user comments
 
1 Stars
6b+
5
Cool to be Uncool
An unusual arete climb that feels bold. No lower-off.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Strong
7b+
6
Coconut Milk
A worthwhile face route that follows the thin crack-line.
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
7a
7
On a Desert Island Beach
The well-positioned arete. Start up On a Desert Island Beach.
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
7a+
8
Vin Chaud
A fine left-hand finish to Accordians Go Crazy up some flakes.
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
7a
9
Accordions Go Crazy
Start to the left of the flake. Initially the rock is a bit crumbly, but it improves dramatically above.
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
6b+
10
Basrah Blues Band
Climb a flake to a ledge. Follow the groove above to a tricky bulge. The slab above this leads to the lower-off.
 
1 Stars
Technical
6c