Adjacent Areas
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Sport
Afternoon sun
Downhill
20 minsWindy
One of the biggest walls on Portland which has an array of top-notch pitches that will appeal to harder climbers. When in condition the climbs are some of the best on the coast. Due to lack of traffic they are more often than not a bit dirty and need a brief clean before an ascent. The pitches are long and sustained. Guidebook page 153.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Will Climb the wall left of the scruffy flake to a ledge. Step left and follow the elegant, technical groove. | Technical | 7b |
2 |
Michèle Climb Will to the ledge; extend the third clip. The hanging groove and flake-crack give some excellent climbing. | 6a+ | |
3 |
Shape of Tomorrow Start a metre right of the scruffy flake. Climb a steep wall to the halfway ledge, move left and head for the scary flakes. | 6c | |
4 |
River of Dreams The crack left of the upper section of Spinal Tap, with a short sharp crux. Start as for Shape of Tomorrow with hard moves to... | 7a | |
5 |
Spinal Tap The long thin line has a safe, but scary run-out at the top. 1 user comment | 1 Stars Technical Pumpy Fluttery | 7b+ |
6 |
Cloud Atlas The steep wall and blind flake is powerful in its first half then technical in its upper reaches. | 2 Stars Technical | 7b+ |
7 |
Million Watt Marshalls Continually absorbing and very sustained climbing, but unfortunately often dirty. Formally 7b. 2 user comments | 2 Stars Technical Pumpy | 7b+ |
8 |
Ariane V A direct and pumpy version of Disintegration with no real crux moves, but plenty of hard ones. A very good route. 9 user comments | 3 Stars Pumpy | 7b |
9 |
Disintegration An older line, but still excellent. Start up Zum Zeaux and link into the top of Ariane V. 3 user comments | 2 Stars Technical Pumpy | 7b+ |
10 |
Zum Zeaux A tremendous route of contrasting styles. The initial leaning wall is burly whilst the upper wall is technical. 2 user comments | 3 Stars Technical Pumpy | 7b+ |
11 |
Magnetic Pull An extremely demanding direct on Zum Zeaux with a power-packed first 10m. Save some energy for the last moves. | 3 Stars Strong Pumpy | 7c+ |
12 |
Realm of Chaos A superb and sustained route with a hard start up the shallow rounded weakness. One of the most impressive and best pitches on... 3 user comments | 3 Stars Pumpy | 7b+ |
13 |
Hombre Solaire Another huge stamina pitch. Start up Realm of Chaos, move out right at the fourth bolt for 4m, then climb direct to the top. 2 user comments | 2 Stars Technical Pumpy | 7c |
