Realm of Chaos Area

Adjacent Areas
< Mr. Natural Area  |  Heat Stroke Groove Area >

Sport
Afternoon sun
Downhill
20 mins

One of the biggest walls on Portland which has an array of top-notch pitches that will appeal to harder climbers. When in condition the climbs are some of the best on the coast. Due to lack of traffic they are more often than not a bit dirty and need a brief clean before an ascent. The pitches are long and sustained. Guidebook page 153.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Will
Climb the wall left of the scruffy flake to a ledge. Step left and follow the elegant, technical groove.
 
Technical
7b
2
Michèle
Climb Will to the ledge; extend the third clip. The hanging groove and flake-crack give some excellent climbing.
 6a+
3
Shape of Tomorrow
Start a metre right of the scruffy flake. Climb a steep wall to the halfway ledge, move left and head for the scary flakes.
 6c
4
River of Dreams
The crack left of the upper section of Spinal Tap, with a short sharp crux. Start as for Shape of Tomorrow with hard moves to...
 7a
5
Spinal Tap
The long thin line has a safe, but scary run-out at the top.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Fluttery
7b+
6
Cloud Atlas
The steep wall and blind flake is powerful in its first half then technical in its upper reaches.
 
2 Stars
Technical
7b+
7
Million Watt Marshalls
Continually absorbing and very sustained climbing, but unfortunately often dirty. Formally 7b.
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7b+
8
Ariane V
A direct and pumpy version of Disintegration with no real crux moves, but plenty of hard ones. A very good route.
9 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
7b
9
Disintegration
An older line, but still excellent. Start up Zum Zeaux and link into the top of Ariane V.
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7b+
10
Zum Zeaux
A tremendous route of contrasting styles. The initial leaning wall is burly whilst the upper wall is technical.
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7b+
11
Magnetic Pull
An extremely demanding direct on Zum Zeaux with a power-packed first 10m. Save some energy for the last moves.
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
7c+
12
Realm of Chaos
A superb and sustained route with a hard start up the shallow rounded weakness. One of the most impressive and best pitches on...
3 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
7b+
13
Hombre Solaire
Another huge stamina pitch. Start up Realm of Chaos, move out right at the fourth bolt for 4m, then climb direct to the top.
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7c
  • Latest Comments

    For WALLSEND SOUTH

    Once Upon a Time in The West
    "A large block has come out at the start, taking the first bolt with it." 29/Jul

    Saskatchewan Uranium Miner
    "Now Fully Bolted." 05/Jun

    Immaculata
    "Fine now. A lovely climb." 02/Jul

    Clacichew
    "Pleasant steady climbing on frictional flowstone. Well worth a star or two." 17/May

    Moan, Moan, Moan
    "No mantelshelf needed on roof. Here's another description of the route: tentativ..." 18/Apr

    Realm of Chaos
    "Brilliant route. Second the comment about the reach symbol for the move around ..." 11/Apr

    Stalker's Zone
    "The first bolt was replaced last autumn - it was missing for almost 10 years!" 22/Mar top50

    Stalker's Zone
    "Someone seems to have kindly added an extra bolt at the bottom so it all feels n..." 21/Mar top50

    Hombre Solaire
    "Quality route. Thin holds below roof but all there for 7c grade." 14/Jun

    Immaculata
    "This section of wall has suffered badly this winter, there is alot of dirt and b..." 21/May

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