Adjacent Areas
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Sport
Afternoon sun
Downhill
20 minsWindy
One of Portland's finest mid-grade venues that has a number of fantastic wall climbs. The rock is generally excellent on the classic lines and the climbing sustained. The setting is stunning, and the base of the cliff is lined with good flat ledges - ideal for soaking up some sunshine between climbs. Guidebook page 156.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Eternal Peace Climb the wall to a ledge and then head left and up the arete. | Technical | 6c |
2 |
Dark Play A direct on Eternal Peace from the midway ledge. There is a line of taped-up bolts to the right that are on its old loose... | 6b | |
3 |
The Bog Man The wall, overlap and flake-crack give good varied climbing. A long reach is useful at the top. | Reachy Fluttery Loose | 6b+ |
4 |
Garstang The wall, groove and overlap. Good climbing with rests. | Reachy Fluttery Loose | 6c+ |
5 |
Shibumi Climb easy rock to a good wall high up. | 1 Stars Technical | 7a |
6 |
Slave State Start by scrambling up to below the central gully. A bit run-out between bolts two and three. | 2 Stars Strong Pumpy | 7b+ |
7 |
Child of Light A left-hand finish to Immaculata. Climb to a groove high on the wall, then break out left and ascend the impending face. | 1 Stars | 6c+ |
8 |
Immaculata Intricate climbing that builds to an exposed final wall. Climb, on slightly dusty rock to the upper wall. Move right into a... 2 user comments | 2 Stars Pumpy | 6c |
9 |
The Watchman A brilliant, testing line that features some hard moves low down. Start just to the left of a corner in the low overhang.... 7 user comments | 3 Stars Technical Pumpy | 6b |
10 |
Waiting for the Barbarians The wall above the short corner is worthwhile. Start at the short corner in the low overhang. Move up through the overhang and... | 2 Stars | 6b+ |
11 |
Peace in the Nineties The rightward line above the short corner is much easier in its upper reaches. Start as for Waiting for the Barbarians. Move... 1 user comment | 1 Stars Pumpy | 6b+ |
12 |
Some Velvet Morning The wall and blunt arete right of Peace in the Nineties. Start up Peace in the Nineties and continue beyond its traverse above... | 1 Stars | 7a |
13 |
The Enchanted Path A powerful pull through the initial overhang is followed by far more pleasant climbing above. Start just to the left of an... 2 user comments | 2 Stars | 6c |
14 |
Once Upon a Time in The West A neat pitch. Climb Best Fingers Forward to clear the overhang, then weave up the wall to the groove. Climb the groove to an... 1 user comment | 1 Stars | 6c |
15 |
Best Fingers Forward A splendid pitch that features a forceful finger-crack. Start in an overhung sentry-box. Move up and right to clear the... 3 user comments | 3 Stars Technical | 6c+ |
16 |
Blue Faced Booby Exposed and committing climbing up the wall's right-hand arete. Start just to the left of the arete. Make a tricky series of... 4 user comments | 2 Stars Pumpy | 6c |
