Adjacent Areas
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Sport
Afternoon sun
Downhill
20 minsWindy
Situated right in the centre of Wallsend Cove, this area has some of the best rock on offer on Portland, with long sustained pitches in an atmospheric setting. The only drawback is that some of the harder lines need good conditions to be climbable, especially the corner lines. Guidebook page 159.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Tea Cakes Calling A pitch with a hard lower-crux. Start just right of the wide, broken corner-crack. Climb the wall direct with a bouldery move... 4 user comments | 1 Stars Technical Pumpy | 7a |
2 |
The Jewel of the Isle A magical wall climb. Start in the middle of the steepest section of the wall. Climb the fingery lower-wall with conviction to... 7 user comments | 3 Stars Pumpy | 6b+ |
3 |
Stalker's Zone Top 50 The right-hand line of the lower wall is another terrific face-climb. Start below ledges and a left-leaning corner under an... 12 user comments | 3 Stars Pumpy | 6a+ |
4 |
Trad Free World A Wallsend classic that sees plenty of ascents. A lovely pitch on great rock. Start at the left-hand end of a high ledge below... 9 user comments | 3 Stars Pumpy | 6b |
5 |
Genuflection Gradually steepening climbing with an intense sequence midway. Start at the left-hand end of a high ledge, below a shallow... 7 user comments | 3 Stars Technical Crimpy | 7b |
6 |
Reverence Top 50 When in condition, the central depression and upper cracks offer a brilliant experience that is low in the grade. Start at the... 4 user comments | 3 Stars Pumpy | 7a+ |
7 |
Outside the Gate The routes's difficulties are split by the left-leaning, open corner in the middle of the bulging section of the upper wall.... 3 user comments | 3 Stars Technical Pumpy | 7b |
8 |
Halfway to Heaven Another Portland classic, with continuously interesting and varied moves on superb rock. Start at a vertical wall directly... 2 user comments | 3 Stars Technical Pumpy | 7b |
9 |
Straight to Hell A fine left-hand finish to Halfway to Heaven. | 2 Stars | 7b+ |
10 |
Organic Snail Farming A very hard undertaking at the grade. Climb the broken lower wall to a half-height ledge. Climb the fine upper wall via a slim... 5 user comments | 2 Stars Technical Pumpy | 7b |
11 |
Wave Graffiti A strength-sapping lead that features a tough reach at the top. Climb the easy lower wall via the decomposing ramp-line to... | 1 Stars Reachy Strong | 7b+ |
12 |
Hawaiian Pipeline An attractive line that fires up a smart white groove after an easy start as for Wave Graffiti. It is slow to dry out. | 3 Stars Technical Pumpy | 7b |
13 |
Running Down a Dream The black-streaked groove gives good climbing, though it is a seepage line, so is often dirty and might need cleaning. 1 user comment | 2 Stars Technical | 7b |
14 |
My Two Left Feet A long and pumpy route with a withering finish. So-named after the first ascensionist packed two left boots. | 1 Stars Technical Pumpy | 7c+ |
15 |
Bob's Gold Run A very blank-looking groove. Scramble up easy blocks in the gully to get to the start. 1 user comment | 2 Stars | 7a+ |
