Trad Free World Area

Sport
Afternoon sun
20 mins
Downhill

Situated right in the centre of Wallsend Cove, this area has some of the best rock on offer on Portland, with long sustained pitches in an atmospheric setting. The only drawback is that some of the harder lines need good conditions to be climbable, especially the corner lines.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Tea Cakes Calling
A pitch with a hard lower-crux. Start just right of the wide, broken corner-crack. Climb the wall direct with a bouldery move...
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7a
2
The Jewel of the Isle
A magical wall climb. Start in the middle of the steepest section of the wall. Climb the fingery lower-wall with conviction to...
7 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
6b+
3
Stalker's Zone Top 50
The right-hand line of the lower wall is another terrific face-climb. Start below ledges and a left-leaning corner under an...
12 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
6a+
4
Trad Free World
A Wallsend classic that sees plenty of ascents. A lovely pitch on great rock. Start at the left-hand end of a high ledge below...
9 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
6b
5
Genuflection
Gradually steepening climbing with an intense sequence midway. Start at the left-hand end of a high ledge, below a shallow...
7 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7b
6
Reverence Top 50
When in condition, the central depression and upper cracks offer a brilliant experience that is low in the grade. Start at the...
4 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
7a+
7
Outside the Gate
The routes's difficulties are split by the left-leaning, open corner in the middle of the bulging section of the upper wall....
3 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7b
8
Halfway to Heaven
Another Portland classic, with continuously interesting and varied moves on superb rock. Start at a vertical wall directly...
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7b
9
Straight to Hell
A fine left-hand finish to Halfway to Heaven.
 
2 Stars
7b+
10
Organic Snail Farming
A very hard undertaking at the grade. Climb the broken lower wall to a half-height ledge. Climb the fine upper wall via a slim...
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7b
11
Wave Graffiti
A strength-sapping lead that features a tough reach at the top. Climb the easy lower wall via the decomposing ramp-line to...
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Strong
7b+
12
Hawaiian Pipeline
An attractive line that fires up a smart white groove after an easy start as for Wave Graffiti. It is slow to dry out.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7b
13
Running Down a Dream
The black-streaked groove gives good climbing, though it is a seepage line, so is often dirty and might need cleaning.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
7b
14
My Two Left Feet
A long and pumpy route with a withering finish. So-named after the first ascensionist packed two left boots.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7c+
15
Bob's Gold Run
A very blank-looking groove. Scramble up easy blocks in the gully to get to the start.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
7a+
16
Fleshworld
The holds can be soapy and sandy at times, but it's a cracking, if unbalanced pitch with a bouldery hard section and a much...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
7b+
17
Colors
An incredible line that ascends a banded lower wall and long crack in the headwall. Low in the grade. Climb to the roof, pull...
5 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
7b+
18
Olympus Mons
A fine route with a sting in the tail, that just merits the grade but at the present time has a huge loose block in its lower...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Loose
7b
19
White Unconquerable
A huge line up a towering flaky corner. Much better value on your arms than its Stanage counterpart. Can be soapy and muddy.
1 user comment
 
Pumpy
6b+
20
Gedge
The overhangs, shallow groove and flakes in the wall just left of the central crack/chimney. Some of the rock is suspect.
 
Loose
6b+
21
Black'll do Nicely
Good sustained climbing initially over bulges, then up the wall to a steeper finish. Close to Gedge on the crux.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
7a+
22
The Empire State Arete
A huge, adventure-style sport-route up the towering arete to the right of the gloomy corner. Start on the left of the arete and...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
6b+
23
Dogtown Skate Team
The left-hand line is high in the grade. Carefully climb leftwards up the wall and pull over an overlap onto a slab. Move up...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
7a+
24
Rush
Start up Beautiful South. At the third bolt, move left to the flake-crack and follow it steeply to the top.
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
7b+
25
Beautiful South
The impressive prow is gained from the right, and gives a fine pitch that involves plenty of difficult and technical climbing.
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Crimpy
7c+
26
Tarquill's Trollies
The left-hand side of the leaning flowstone wall. This line is reported to have lost holds and may be harder than the original...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
6c
27
Flipper's Revenge
A desperate, cruxy route and even harder for the short.
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Technical
7a+
28
Walking on Sunshine
A brilliant little pitch. Rebolted and reclimbed after rockfall.
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7a
29
No Victory In Europe
This line suffers from mud slides. Line not on topo.
 6c
  • Latest Comments

    For WALLSEND SOUTH

    1789
    "The large flake at 5m is disintegrating. Cleaned up as much as I could but some ..." 28/Aug

    Once Upon a Time in The West
    "A large block has come out at the start, taking the first bolt with it." 29/Jul

    Saskatchewan Uranium Miner
    "Now Fully Bolted." 05/Jun

    Immaculata
    "Fine now. A lovely climb." 02/Jul

    Clacichew
    "Pleasant steady climbing on frictional flowstone. Well worth a star or two." 17/May

    Moan, Moan, Moan
    "No mantelshelf needed on roof. Here's another description of the route: tentativ..." 18/Apr

    Realm of Chaos
    "Brilliant route. Second the comment about the reach symbol for the move around ..." 11/Apr

    Stalker's Zone
    "The first bolt was replaced last autumn - it was missing for almost 10 years!" 22/Mar top50

    Stalker's Zone
    "Someone seems to have kindly added an extra bolt at the bottom so it all feels n..." 21/Mar top50

    Hombre Solaire
    "Quality route. Thin holds below roof but all there for 7c grade." 14/Jun

    Immaculata
    "This section of wall has suffered badly this winter, there is alot of dirt and b..." 21/May

    The Bigger Piece
    "Confused about the crux - below the bulge in the headwall do you: 1. traverse l..." 16/May

    Sang Chaud
    "Well guys did this today and thought it was excellent and about right for the gr..." 10/May

    Ariane V
    ":D haha! yes i wouldnt like to lob off on rusty pegs at wallsend! were actually ..." 02/Oct

    Troll Team Special
    "Crux is much harder for the short, cos you have to do it off crap footholds. Ver..." 28/Sep

    Disintegration
    "Nice link up of the two routes. Arguably a better finish for Zum Zeaux without t..." 28/Sep

    Ariane V
    "You are so right Andy on the re-bolt I tried saskatchewan and bailed the hard st..." 27/Sep

    Halfway to Heaven
    "I totally agree. Crimpy lower section where good conditions are a distinct benef..." 22/Sep

    Zum Zeaux
    "Excellent climbing. Highly recommended.Very sustained and fingery after a steep ..." 21/Sep

    The Watchman
    "A great route although a little unbalanced as the start is much, much harder tha..." 06/Sep

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