Trad Free World Area

Adjacent Areas
< The Enchanted Path Area  |  Colors Area >

Sport
Afternoon sun
20 mins
Downhill

Situated right in the centre of Wallsend Cove, this area has some of the best rock on offer on Portland, with long sustained pitches in an atmospheric setting. The only drawback is that some of the harder lines need good conditions to be climbable, especially the corner lines. Guidebook page 159.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Tea Cakes Calling
A pitch with a hard lower-crux. Start just right of the wide, broken corner-crack. Climb the wall direct with a bouldery move...
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7a
2
The Jewel of the Isle
A magical wall climb. Start in the middle of the steepest section of the wall. Climb the fingery lower-wall with conviction to...
7 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
6b+
3
Stalker's Zone Top 50
The right-hand line of the lower wall is another terrific face-climb. Start below ledges and a left-leaning corner under an...
12 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
6a+
4
Trad Free World
A Wallsend classic that sees plenty of ascents. A lovely pitch on great rock. Start at the left-hand end of a high ledge below...
9 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
6b
5
Genuflection
Gradually steepening climbing with an intense sequence midway. Start at the left-hand end of a high ledge, below a shallow...
7 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7b
6
Reverence Top 50
When in condition, the central depression and upper cracks offer a brilliant experience that is low in the grade. Start at the...
4 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
7a+
7
Outside the Gate
The routes's difficulties are split by the left-leaning, open corner in the middle of the bulging section of the upper wall....
3 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7b
8
Halfway to Heaven
Another Portland classic, with continuously interesting and varied moves on superb rock. Start at a vertical wall directly...
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7b
9
Straight to Hell
A fine left-hand finish to Halfway to Heaven.
 
2 Stars
7b+
10
Organic Snail Farming
A very hard undertaking at the grade. Climb the broken lower wall to a half-height ledge. Climb the fine upper wall via a slim...
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7b
11
Wave Graffiti
A strength-sapping lead that features a tough reach at the top. Climb the easy lower wall via the decomposing ramp-line to...
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Strong
7b+
12
Hawaiian Pipeline
An attractive line that fires up a smart white groove after an easy start as for Wave Graffiti. It is slow to dry out.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7b
13
Running Down a Dream
The black-streaked groove gives good climbing, though it is a seepage line, so is often dirty and might need cleaning.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
7b
14
My Two Left Feet
A long and pumpy route with a withering finish. So-named after the first ascensionist packed two left boots.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7c+
15
Bob's Gold Run
A very blank-looking groove. Scramble up easy blocks in the gully to get to the start.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
7a+
  • Latest Comments

    For WALLSEND SOUTH

    Once Upon a Time in The West
    "A large block has come out at the start, taking the first bolt with it." 29/Jul

    Saskatchewan Uranium Miner
    "Now Fully Bolted." 05/Jun

    Immaculata
    "Fine now. A lovely climb." 02/Jul

    Clacichew
    "Pleasant steady climbing on frictional flowstone. Well worth a star or two." 17/May

    Moan, Moan, Moan
    "No mantelshelf needed on roof. Here's another description of the route: tentativ..." 18/Apr

    Realm of Chaos
    "Brilliant route. Second the comment about the reach symbol for the move around ..." 11/Apr

    Stalker's Zone
    "The first bolt was replaced last autumn - it was missing for almost 10 years!" 22/Mar top50

    Stalker's Zone
    "Someone seems to have kindly added an extra bolt at the bottom so it all feels n..." 21/Mar top50

    Hombre Solaire
    "Quality route. Thin holds below roof but all there for 7c grade." 14/Jun

    Immaculata
    "This section of wall has suffered badly this winter, there is alot of dirt and b..." 21/May

    The Bigger Piece
    "Confused about the crux - below the bulge in the headwall do you: 1. traverse l..." 16/May

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