Hong Kong Phooey Area

Adjacent Areas
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Sport
Afternoon sun
Downhill
15 mins
Tidal

An extensive section of cliff that has a number of good climbs on its various buttresses and walls. Good conditions are usually found late in the day on the shadier sections of the cliff. Guidebook page 162.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Critical Mass
Pleasant climbing up the arete and wall to a boldish finale.
 
1 Stars
Technical
6b
2
Rapid Response
A technical groove at the top of the climb makes up the meat of this route.
 
1 Stars
Technical
7a
3
Chert Noble
The right-hand pillar is a good climb with slightly blind climbing.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7a+
4
Face in the Chert
A slight climb on snappy rock that is slightly run-out. It follows the flaky crack-line gained direct via a juggy wall and...
3 user comments
 
Loose
6a
5
Glamour Cat
A great face climb with plenty of good climbing.
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
6b
6
1789
Climb directly up the middle of the wall and finish direct over the top roof. High in the grade.
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
7a
7
The Bad Seeds
A top flight stamina wall and thin crack pitch.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7b
8
Magical Mr. Mephistopheles
Good climbing, heading for the open scoop right of The Bad Seeds. Swing left at the top to shared lower-off with The Bad Seeds.
6 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
6c
9
Clacichew
Traverse in carefully to the base. Follow the left-hand line past the dripping collar of flowstone. Slightly lichenous.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
6b
10
Calcite Compliment
The right-hand line has a testing central section.
 
1 Stars
6c
11
Jazz It Up
Start at a bolt-belay on a high ledge, accessed by a knotted rope. Worthwhile climbing with a very short hard section.
 
1 Stars
7a+
12
Razzamatazz
A snazzy wall pitch from the same ledge and belay of Jazz It Up.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7b
13
We are Stardust
Head out left across the wall to arete and then follow grooves and ledges to finish.
 
Loose
4
14
We are Golden
Break out right from midway up We are Stardust.
 5+
15
The Great Pretender
The well-positioned wall and blunt arete are sportingly bolted.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
6c+
16
Totally FOO to You
A prominent arete, gained by tricky moves over an overlap which leads to fine open climbing above.
 
1 Stars
6c
17
A Perfect Afternoon
The pocketed wall to the right of the Totally FOO to You arete.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
6b+
18
Tunnel Vision
A sister route to Hong Kong Phooey keeping close to the bolt line. No escaping left at the top. Needs dry conditions.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
7b+
19
Hong Kong Phooey
A sustained route which needs dry conditions, and can be terminally damp without them. Plan for an afternoon ascent.
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
7c
20
Doolittle
A great line. Climb the scoop and crack to the upper roof and pass it on the left. Sustained.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
6b+
21
Jane Says
Start up Doolittle and break right up a crack which becomes increasingly steep as height is gained.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
6b+
22
Relax
Stay left of the bolts at the bottom for the best climbing.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
6b+
  • Latest Comments

    For WALLSEND SOUTH

    Once Upon a Time in The West
    "A large block has come out at the start, taking the first bolt with it." 29/Jul

    Saskatchewan Uranium Miner
    "Now Fully Bolted." 05/Jun

    Immaculata
    "Fine now. A lovely climb." 02/Jul

    Clacichew
    "Pleasant steady climbing on frictional flowstone. Well worth a star or two." 17/May

    Moan, Moan, Moan
    "No mantelshelf needed on roof. Here's another description of the route: tentativ..." 18/Apr

    Realm of Chaos
    "Brilliant route. Second the comment about the reach symbol for the move around ..." 11/Apr

    Stalker's Zone
    "The first bolt was replaced last autumn - it was missing for almost 10 years!" 22/Mar top50

    Stalker's Zone
    "Someone seems to have kindly added an extra bolt at the bottom so it all feels n..." 21/Mar top50

    Hombre Solaire
    "Quality route. Thin holds below roof but all there for 7c grade." 14/Jun

    Immaculata
    "This section of wall has suffered badly this winter, there is alot of dirt and b..." 21/May

    The Bigger Piece
    "Confused about the crux - below the bulge in the headwall do you: 1. traverse l..." 16/May

    Sang Chaud
    "Well guys did this today and thought it was excellent and about right for the gr..." 10/May

    Ariane V
    ":D haha! yes i wouldnt like to lob off on rusty pegs at wallsend! were actually ..." 02/Oct

    Troll Team Special
    "Crux is much harder for the short, cos you have to do it off crap footholds. Ver..." 28/Sep

    Disintegration
    "Nice link up of the two routes. Arguably a better finish for Zum Zeaux without t..." 28/Sep

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