Hong Kong Phooey Area

Adjacent Areas
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Sport
Sun and Shade
15 mins
Downhill
Tidal

An extensive section of cliff that has a number of good climbs on its various buttresses and walls. Good conditions are usually found late in the day on the shadier sections of the cliff.
Tides - The ledges below the left-hand section of the area are sea-washed at high tide and in rough seas.
Approach - Drive to Portland Bill and park in the car park (fee). Walk back up the road past the Pulpit Inn and head out leftwards up a minor road towards the Coastwatch Lookout. Just before the Coastwatch Lookout, go down a grass slope to the cliff edge (see map on page 166) then descend a steep and precarious path (rope sometimes in place) onto a promontory and then continue down right to below Coastguard North. Walk north under this, past a gully, to reach Wallsend South. If the tide is high a slightly longer approach can be made from the northern end of Wallsend.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Critical Mass
Pleasant climbing up the arete and wall to a boldish finale.
 
1 Stars
Technical
6b
2
Rapid Response
A technical groove at the top of the climb makes up the meat of this route.
 
1 Stars
Technical
7a
3
Chert Noble
The right-hand pillar is a good climb with slightly blind climbing.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7a+
4
Face in the Chert
A slight climb on snappy rock that is slightly run-out. It follows the flaky crack-line gained direct via a juggy wall and...
3 user comments
 
Loose
6a
5
Glamour Cat
A great face climb with plenty of good climbing.
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
6b
6
1789
Climb directly up the middle of the wall and finish direct over the top roof. High in the grade.
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
7a
7
The Bad Seeds
A top flight stamina wall and thin crack pitch.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7b
8
Magical Mr. Mephistopheles
Good climbing, heading for the open scoop right of The Bad Seeds. Swing left at the top to shared lower-off with The Bad Seeds.
6 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
6c
9
Clacichew
Traverse in carefully to the base. Follow the left-hand line past the dripping collar of flowstone. Slightly lichenous.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
6b
10
Calcite Compliment
The right-hand line has a testing central section.
 
1 Stars
6c
11
Jazz It Up
Start at a bolt-belay on a high ledge, accessed by a knotted rope. Worthwhile climbing with a very short hard section.
 
1 Stars
7a+
12
Razzamatazz
A snazzy wall pitch from the same ledge and belay of Jazz It Up.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7b
13
We are Stardust
Head out left across the wall to arete and then follow grooves and ledges to finish.
2 user comments
 
Loose
4a
14
We are Golden
Break out right from midway up We are Stardust.
2 user comments
 5c
15
The Great Pretender
The well-positioned wall and blunt arete are sportingly bolted.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
6c+
16
Totally FOO to You
A prominent arete, gained by tricky moves over an overlap which leads to fine open climbing above.
 
1 Stars
6c
17
A Perfect Afternoon
The pocketed wall to the right of the Totally FOO to You arete.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
6b+
18
Tunnel Vision
A sister route to Hong Kong Phooey keeping close to the bolt line. No escaping left at the top. Needs dry conditions.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
7b+
19
Hong Kong Phooey
A sustained route which needs dry conditions, and can be terminally damp without them. Plan for an afternoon ascent.
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
7c
20
Doolittle
A great line. Climb the scoop and crack to the upper roof and pass it on the left. Sustained.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
6b+
21
Jane Says
Start up Doolittle and break right up a crack which becomes increasingly steep as height is gained.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
6b+
22
Relax
Stay left of the bolts at the bottom for the best climbing.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
6b+