Wax Museum Area

Adjacent Areas
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Sport
Afternoon sun
13 mins
Up and Down

These clean and appealing walls are home to some great stamina test-pieces. One drawback is that most of the routes are condition dependent and need sunshine and minimal humidity. The first four routes are situated 30m north of the main crag above a grass slope.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
El Poder de un Coño
The open groove just right of a huge prow has an airy climax.
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
6c+
2
100% Colombian
The white wall has a stopper mid-height move and a tricky finale.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7a+
3
China White
An appealing thin seam up the white wall. A fine pitch.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
6c+
4
Pure Shores
A varied wall pitch that starts up the easy flake-crack.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
6c
5
Meridian Line
Directly above the pillar, a blind crack leads to finger-burning mini-flakes. Fantastic climbing in the right conditions.
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Crimpy
7c
6
Ming the Merciless
Very pumpy, with a desperate start.
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Pumpy
7c+
7
Headwall Emptiness
A classic on a dry, sunny day, and well worth waiting for.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
7b+
8
Glycerine
A big stamina pitch with a complicated lower section and a hard finish. No cheating with long slings on the belay!
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7c+
9
Sand Castles
The line of flakes left of Wax Museum.
 
Pumpy
Loose
7a+
10
Wax Museum
A magnificent line up the eye-catching sheet of orange flowstone.
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
7b+
11
Dr Phibes
More brilliant flowstone finger-flakes after an awkward start.
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
7b
12
Clockwork Orange
The power-packed blind crack leads to a blank headwall.
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
7c
13
The Nth Degree
Blast up the overhanging scoop and big flake. Continue just right of the bolts, jumping to gain the break. Step back left to...
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Pumpy
7c
14
Wasted
The open scoop leads into a left-trending undercut. Can be greasy.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7b+
15
Last Orders
A right-hand finish to Wasted. Move diagonally right on small holds then up to the finish of Bar Room Brawl.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Strong
Pumpy
7c
16
Bar Room Brawl
An overhanging groove next to the huge black streak. So named after a couple of knee-bars on the route.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Strong
Pumpy
7c+
17
Vespasian
The line of shallow open grooves is the hardest route on Portland that requires a BIG span for success.
5 user comments
 
3 Stars
Reachy
Technical
Strong
Pumpy
8b
18
Sale of the Century
The central blind crack gives some very varied climbing. Hold something in reserve for the last moves.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7b
19
Zero Tolerance
A rightward line from the ledge on Sale of the Century, up an overhung ramp. Needs good conditions.
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Strong
7b+
20
Mid-Strife Oasis
Very hard climbing in its lower half.
 
1 Stars
Technical
7c
21
Eternal Spider
This brilliant and powerful pitch surges violently up the imposing white wall.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Strong
Pumpy
7c+
22
Happy to Go Blind
A climb of two halves. Follow a tricky calcified crack to a grass ledge, then contort up the innocent-looking blank groove.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7b+
  • Latest Comments

    For COASTGUARD NORTH

    Dr Phibes
    "Very good. Ukc comments about low in grade are from someone who clearly doesn't ..." 19/Apr

    The Man Who Never Found Himself
    "The first bolt has now been replaced." 01/Jun

    Midnight Oil
    "Definitely not a poor route." 23/May

    Dr Phibes
    "The challenge is not to barn door at the start, crux is over by the 3rd. This w..." 23/May

    El Poder de un Coño
    "Excellent route, well worth seeking out. You may want your mate to place the thi..." 28/Sep

    Prison Sex
    "Hard starting rock over, and then a really hard move, after that the correct des..." 24/Sep

    Eternal Spider
    "Brilliant Route powerful" 30/Jun

    El Poder de un Coño
    "Fantastic finishing position, one of the best on the west coast." 01/Jun

    The Man Who Never Found Himself
    "First bolt no longer in place so suggest clipping the first bolt on previous rou..." 12/May

    Vespasian
    "it looks like the vertical handhold for the right hand at the beginning of the c..." 21/Jul

    Midnight Oil
    "If it was at any other west coast crag it would score a star. Its the shadow of..." 03/Jul

    Vespasian
    "this must be a very difficult route to grade (not unlike most other hard routes ..." 16/Jun

    Superfly Guy
    "Great route that needs a bit of tenacity" 06/May

    Nothing but the Groove
    "Felt like a 1 star 6b+. Nice, but easy groove at the top." 09/Jul top50

    Frenzied Detruncation
    "Bouldery start which isn't too bad once you have a good sequence. The real crux ..." 06/May

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