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These clean and appealing walls are home to some great stamina test-pieces. One drawback is that most of the routes are condition dependent and need sunshine and minimal humidity. The first four routes are situated 30m north of the main crag above a grass slope. Guidebook page 168.

Route (click for voting and user comments)		Symbols	Grade
1	El Poder de un Coño The open groove just right of a huge prow has an airy climax. 2 user comments	2 Stars Pumpy	6c+
2	100% Colombian The white wall has a stopper mid-height move and a tricky finale. 2 user comments	1 Stars Technical Pumpy	7a+
3	China White An appealing thin seam up the white wall. A fine pitch. 1 user comment	2 Stars Technical Pumpy	6c+
4	Pure Shores A varied wall pitch that starts up the easy flake-crack. 3 user comments	1 Stars Pumpy	6c
5	Meridian Line Directly above the pillar, a blind crack leads to finger-burning mini-flakes. Fantastic climbing in the right conditions.	2 Stars Pumpy Crimpy	7c
6	Ming the Merciless Very pumpy, with a desperate start.	1 Stars Reachy Pumpy	7c+
7	Headwall Emptiness A classic on a dry, sunny day, and well worth waiting for. 1 user comment	2 Stars Pumpy	7b+
8	Glycerine A big stamina pitch with a complicated lower section and a hard finish. No cheating with long slings on the belay!	2 Stars Technical Pumpy	7c+
9	Sand Castles The line of flakes left of Wax Museum.	Pumpy Loose	7a+
10	Wax Museum A magnificent line up the eye-catching sheet of orange flowstone.	3 Stars Strong Pumpy	7b+
11	Dr Phibes More brilliant flowstone finger-flakes after an awkward start. 3 user comments	2 Stars Pumpy	7b
12	Clockwork Orange The power-packed blind crack leads to a blank headwall.	2 Stars Pumpy	7c
13	The Nth Degree Blast up the overhanging scoop and big flake. Continue just right of the bolts, jumping to gain the break. Step back left to...	1 Stars Reachy Pumpy	7c
14	Wasted The open scoop leads into a left-trending undercut. Can be greasy. 1 user comment	1 Stars Technical Pumpy	7b+
15	Last Orders A right-hand finish to Wasted. Move diagonally right on small holds then up to the finish of Bar Room Brawl.	1 Stars Technical Strong Pumpy	7c
16	Bar Room Brawl An overhanging groove next to the huge black streak. So named after a couple of knee-bars on the route.	2 Stars Technical Strong Pumpy	7c+
17	Vespasian The line of shallow open grooves is the hardest route on Portland that requires a BIG span for success. 5 user comments	3 Stars Reachy Technical Strong Pumpy	8b
18	Sale of the Century The central blind crack gives some very varied climbing. Hold something in reserve for the last moves.	2 Stars Technical Pumpy	7b
19	Zero Tolerance A rightward line from the ledge on Sale of the Century, up an overhung ramp. Needs good conditions.	1 Stars Reachy Strong	7b+
20	Mid-Strife Oasis Very hard climbing in its lower half.	1 Stars Technical	7c
21	Eternal Spider This brilliant and powerful pitch surges violently up the imposing white wall. 1 user comment	2 Stars Reachy Strong Pumpy	7c+
22	Happy to Go Blind A climb of two halves. Follow a tricky calcified crack to a grass ledge, then contort up the innocent-looking blank groove.	1 Stars Technical Pumpy	7b+

Wax Museum Area

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